In historical Cdramas, we often come across women sporting exaggerated and voluminous hairstyles, like the Ming-style makeup in When the Wild Geese Return and the Tang-style makeup in The National Beauty and Fragrance. Netizens can't help but wonder: Did ancient people really have such astonishing hair volume? The answer is no. It wasn't necessarily that ancient people naturally had thick hair. In reality, their hair density might not have been as depicted in films and TV shows. Instead, they wore wigs, known as "Yiji" (义髻) in ancient times, which were the forerunners of modern hairpieces. The trend of wearing wigs started among upper - class women. Their goal was to add volume and create more elaborate hairstyles, similar to today's hair extensions. The materials for Yiji were diverse. It wasn't limited to human hair (which was costly) but also included thin wood shavings, horsehair, etc. Generally, Yiji were made from hair or wood - based substitutes. For example, the lacquered wooden wig unearthed from the Astana Tombs in Turpan, Xinjiang, is a standard 'Single - Blade Half - Turned Chignon'. It's made of wood, painted black, and decorated with white - painted flowers, auspicious clouds, and phoenixes. The base has…

Today, I want to talk about the patterns and prints of Qipao. Prints are the soul of a Qipao, a distinct marker that lights up the dress, sets its style, and reflects the wearer's artistic charm. In traditional Chinese culture, they're not just decoration; they carry auspicious meanings, adding cultural depth to the Qipao. The exquisite craftsmanship subtly conveys style and beauty, a method linked to aristocratic aesthetics. Indeed, Qipao has always symbolized noble beauty, a blend of status and refined taste. From centuries - old silk traditions to meticulous hand - crafting, every detail makes Qipao a rare work of art. Among these elements, prints play a crucial role. Today, let's explore the beauty and types of common Qipao prints. Floral Prints Floral prints are the most widespread in Qipao designs. From spring orchids to autumn chrysanthemums, and various plants, they serve as the main focus, accents, or borders. These designs draw on plant characteristics and symbolism, with auspicious meanings and people's aspirations for beauty. The plum blossom, or 'Five Blessings Flower,' symbolizes longevity, success, peace, happiness, and luck due to its five petals. As the first spring flower, it's the 'Queen of Flowers' and a top 'Four Gentlemen'…

Just as Tagore described, "Every open rose brings me the greetings of that rose in the eternal spring." And as Bei Dao interpreted spring precisely, "This is spring, the wildly beating heart disturbs the floating clouds in the water." What is really disturbed? Is it the heart, or the long - awaited desire to embrace beauty after a dull winter? So, in today's issue, inspired by color - matching in dressing and using beautiful cheongsams as materials, let's explore the amazing color - matching in the eyes of cheongsam designers, which we can apply in our daily outfits. Light Colors Main color: 80% Ningzhi White (凝脂白) + 20% Apricot Yellow. This is an extremely gentle cheongsam. The warm - toned color scheme is skin - brightening and elegant, perfect for women to decorate themselves sensually. The main color, like condensed milk, comes from the traditional Chinese color Ningzhi White, which matches the charming luster of silk. It echoes Bai Juyi's famous line in "Song of Everlasting Sorrow": "In spring's cold she bathed in the Huaqing Pool, the warm water smoothed her creamy skin." The matching yellow magnolia embroidery takes the rich yellow tone of ripe spring apricots. The stronger the…

The trailer of the ancient - costumed TV drama "Zanghai Zhuan (藏海传)" has been released, and Xiao Zhan's looks in different periods are eye - catching. Netizens said, "This is what the costumes of Ming Dynasty scholars should look like!" First, the clothing Xiao Zhan wears in "Zanghai Zhuan" is a round - collar lanshan (襕衫). The round - collar refers to the collar style. Lanshan was particularly popular in the Song and Ming dynasties. Wearing a Confucian cap, it became the iconic clothing for the scholar - official class, Confucian scholars, and students at that time. Also, it was widely used in the Confucius worship ceremonies in local rural schools as the exclusive clothing for the dancers in the six - column dance. The lanshan in the Song and Ming dynasties had differences, but both had a horizontal hem. According to "History of the Song Dynasty: Records of Ritual Paraphernalia", "The lanshan is made of fine white cloth, with a round collar and large sleeves. A horizontal hem is added at the bottom as a skirt, and there are pleats around the waist. It is worn by Jinshi (successful candidates in the highest imperial examinations), students of the Imperial…

In the ancient costume drama No Worries Ferry, Zuer Song's Tang Dynasty-style bun appears simple yet elegant. The hair accessories on her temples, not overly exaggerated, perfectly complement her facial features. So, what exactly are these hair accessories called? Well, they are decorative hair ornaments. Initially, combs, Bi (篦), and Huadian (花钿) were worn on the temples, and later, specialized accessories like Lianshu (帘梳) and Yanbin (掩鬓) emerged. This way of wearing them helps fill the decorative gaps in the bun, adding layers and visually elevating the crown of the head while enhancing facial contours. Let's start with combs. This comb - wearing method has a long history, dating back to the Han and Jin Dynasties as decorative items, categorized into wide - toothed combs and fine - toothed Bi. It reached its peak of popularity during the Tang and Song Dynasties. In the mid - to - late Tang Dynasty, with the improvement of living conditions, women became more inclined to adorn themselves. They would style elaborate, tall buns and wear various hair accessories. Combs, like jade pendants, were symbols of social status. The higher one's status, the more exquisite and luxurious the combs were. Ancient combs, as hair…

It's unclear when it started, but almost all heroines and heroes in ancient - costume dramas now sport high ponytails, and the 'armor battle - damaged makeup' trend has also become popular. Netizens point out that high ponytails can actually hit the face during martial arts practice, which is quite painful. The mass replication of high ponytails and battle - damaged makeup not only risks causing visual fatigue but also likely puts pressure on makeup artists and stylists to create unique variations. Let's revisit the costume drama styles of 50 years ago. The most classic is arguably the image from A Touch of Zen. In 1970, actress Xu Feng starred in A Touch of Zen, which catapulted her to fame and established her cold yet glamorous 'heroine' persona. Her character design featured a high bun, often paired with a headscarf or hat. Over her 15 - year screen career, she appeared in about 50 films, all as a heroine. This sleek attire and hairstyle conveyed an independent, self - reliant, and powerful image. Looking at other classic films, heroines rarely wore ponytails. Even with updos or half - updos adorned with accessories, the styling showcased distinct personalities while still emphasizing…

The cheongsam, a world - renowned national element and part of Chinese culture, has always been an endless source of inspiration for many designers. Compared with the bold and direct charm of Western women, the cheongsam represents the elegant qualities of Eastern women, which are both mysterious and gentle, free - spirited and full of allure. Today, let's talk about how the cheongsam can create unique and subtle chemical reactions in the hands of foreign designers within the Western clothing structure and silhouette design. The internationally famous fashion designer we're going to introduce today, John Galliano, also known as 'Pirate King', is a genius full of creativity. He always creates extreme, gorgeous, and unparalleled fashion aesthetics. John Galliano was born in Gibraltar in 1960. At the age of 6, he moved to the UK with his parents. Due to poor family conditions, he lived in poor areas across the UK during his childhood. This exposure to diverse customs helped him develop a rich aesthetic sense. He is a pioneer among designers in exploring different regional cultures, and his works often feature a large number of Asian, African, and Afro - Latin elements. In 1980, Galliano entered Central Saint Martins College…

The beauty of summer Qipao lies in the allure of silk and satin. The encounter with the scents of gardenia and jasmine marks an unforgettable start. Summer, a vibrant and colorful season, has finally arrived. Although the heat can be tough for many, it's nothing compared to the richness and beauty this season brings. For women who love Qipao, summer is the perfect time to display its inherent charm. Today, let's explore the beauty of Qipao suitable for summer. Song Jin and Su Jin If fabric is the essence of a Qipao, then a Qipao made of Song Jin (宋锦) is a living embodiment of rich historical and cultural heritage. It dates back to the Song Dynasty, telling the story of that era's splendor and the remarkable weaving craftsmanship. A Song Jin Qipao is an excellent choice for summer. With its firm yet soft texture, elegant patterns, and classical allure, the wearer exudes artistic charm and noble grace. Take this Song Jin Qipao as an example. Its unique, classical floral print is eye - catching. The straight - cut silhouette with wavy edges adds a touch of playfulness, while the bold peony motifs in soft camel and light purple create…

It's time for another session of sharing cheongsam details. In previous issues, we've talked about the types of handmade frog buttons on cheongsams, the collar and sleeve styles, and the exquisite front - placket patterns. Today, I'd like to discuss the slits, which play a crucial role in the overall design of cheongsams. Don't underestimate this small detail. A tiny slit can present a variety of charming female moments. A smaller slit results in smaller steps, making the posture and gait automatically slow and elegant. A larger slit offers a stronger sense of fluidity, and the faintly visible legs bring out the charming rhythm of the cheongsam. The slits in cheongsams are like opening the door to the sensuality of Chinese clothing. However, this sensuality is not the straightforward Western - style one. It is based on Chinese female culture and the generally reserved and implicit nature of Eastern women. Through a small opening, it slowly releases the rhythm and charm of female beauty. Next, let's talk about the common types of cheongsam slits, as well as their respective advantages and characteristics. Before that, here's a little knowledge about slits. In the early Republic of China, cheongsam slits were actually…

Who understands! There was a kind of resplendent beauty in old TV dramas. When I was a child watching period dramas, I was always amazed by the large phoenix hairpins and the dazzling golden ornaments on the characters' heads. It fulfilled the imagination of grandeur and nobility. Why is this style less common in modern dramas? Let's start with the conclusion. This style of wearing numerous hairpins was particularly representative of the late Tang Dynasty, with its origins traceable back to the Southern and Northern Dynasties. The late Tang period witnessed unprecedented extravagance in women's hairstyles and attire, often described as 'explosively stylish.' Literary descriptions further deepened our imagination of ancient women's hair ornaments. For example, Emperor Xiao Yan of the Southern and Northern Dynasties wrote in 'Song of the River,' 'Twelve rows of golden hairpins on the head, five - patterned silk shoes on the feet.' Tang poet Shi Jianwu also noted in 'Makeup Removal Poem,' 'Under the lamp, I gaze again at the bronze mirror, vainly inserting twelve rows of golden hairpins.' The popularity of such intricate hair ornaments was due to the Tang trend of high buns. The larger the hairstyle, the more hairpins were used. Thus,…

Today, let's continue our special topic on In the Mood for Love and appreciate the beauty of Maggie Cheung's cheongsams. Before delving into the topic, let's talk about the behind - the - scenes details of this movie. Maggie Cheung changed into 23 cheongsams in In the Mood for Love, all designed by the Hong Kong art director Cheung Shu - ping himself. Some of the cheongsam fabrics were his personal collections over the years, and the patterns and fabrics were already out of print. So, it's almost an eternal regret that it's impossible to recreate Su Lizhen's beauty exactly. Then, these cheongsams were handmade by Hong Kong master Leung Long - kwong, who has over sixty years of experience in cheongsam making. As he said, "I've never changed my profession in my life. I earn money with my heart." For these 23 cheongsams, Cheung Shu - ping was mainly responsible for design, color matching and sourcing fabrics, while Leung Long - kwong was in charge of measuring the body, cutting and sewing. It can be said that without the seamless cooperation of these two masters, there wouldn't be this world - renowned Chinese masterpiece. The emergence of In the…

Is Cross-Dressing in Historical Dramas for Real? In many historical dramas, we often see women dressing as men to navigate various social settings. While modern audiences might view clothing as a matter of personal freedom, in ancient times, women wearing men's attire was far from acceptable—it was considered a breach of etiquette and societal norms. The answer lies in the rigid hierarchical systems of the past, where distinctions between age, gender, and social status were deeply ingrained. The idea of "separating men and women" wasn't mere moral policing but a means to enforce strict gender boundaries. As recorded in the Book of Rites: Internal Rules, "men and women shall not share garments." However, exceptions did exist. During the pre-Qin and Han dynasties, particularly in military contexts, women donning armor was a tactical move. For example, the Records of the Grand Historian: Annals of Xiang Yu recounts that Liu Bang deployed 2,000 women in armor to mislead Chu forces during a critical battle. Such instances, though rare, highlight the strategic use of cross-dressing. The Northern and Southern Dynasties saw legendary figures like Mulan, who famously took her father's place in the army, as immortalized in the Ballad of Mulan. Yet, as…

Finally, a historical drama recreates the coming - of - age rite. In When the Wild Geese Return, there's a scene where Zhuang Hanyan, played by Chen Duling, undergoes the Ji Li (coming - of - age ceremony for women). Netizens exclaimed, 'So this is the touching moment!' Nowadays, most children are considered adults once they reach a certain age, without a formal 'coming - of - age ceremony'. But in ancient China, one couldn't be truly 'adult' without understanding rites and undergoing the Guan Li (capping ceremony for men) for males or the Ji Li for females. Details of Rites Men usually had the Guan Li at 20, and women the Ji Li at 15. Also called 'Jia Ji' or 'Shangtou Li', the Ji Li involved parents or elders tying up the girl's hair and inserting a hairpin, signifying her adulthood and eligibility for marriage. As the saying goes, 'When a woman is betrothed, she undergoes the Ji Li and is given a courtesy name.' The main adornments in these rites were hair - tying and adding a crown or hairpin. Before adulthood, children wore their hair loose. The Guan Li for men had three stages, corresponding to different…

Recently, I've been reading A Treasury of Cheongsams Worn by Chinese Aristocratic Families written by Song Luxia and Xu Jingcan. This book is set against the backdrop of those Chinese aristocratic families that once shone brightly and endured on the historical and political stage. The cheongsam, as the central element throughout this backdrop, is like a cultural micro - cosmet of China's upper class. Through its owners, it reveals the clothing culture, aesthetic trends, humanistic features, and craftsmanship of the last century. The book showcases 90 old cheongsams worn by famous ladies from Chinese aristocratic families. As the authors said, "They are a rare, non - renewable, and endangered collection of specimens of Shanghai - style old cheongsams." These cheongsams represent the highest level of Shanghai - style cheongsams in the last century. The two authors and many colleagues spent a great deal of effort collecting and displaying these cheongsams. It's not just about reviewing and presenting the appearance of national clothing culture but also a challenging task of racing against history and time to rescue more buried, forgotten, and neglected clothing cultural treasures. So, today, let's follow the context and characters in the book to explore the beauty of…

When Qipao meets traditional Chinese red, each piece is a true masterpiece! The fusion of gardenia and jasmine scents creates an unforgettable beginning. Today, I’m sharing about red Qipao. Among all colors, red is undoubtedly the star of Qipao. It's not only associated with wedding attire but also deeply rooted in China's historical and cultural symbolism. Red embodies the soul of Chinese culture, symbolizing auspiciousness, celebration, eternal brightness, warmth, hope, vitality, and prosperity. In Chinese history, the five colors—white, blue, black, red, and yellow—were linked to the Five Elements (metal, wood, water, fire, earth) and virtues (benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom, trust). Starting from the Zhou Dynasty, red was revered as a symbol of power and nobility, gradually becoming a staple in both royal and common households. By the Tang and Song Dynasties, red was widely adopted in daily wear and weddings. In the Tang Dynasty, the fourth - rank officials wore dark crimson, and the fifth - rank officials wore light crimson. The popular colors at that time were crimson, purple, bright yellow, and green. The combination of crimson and green was commonly used for women's clothing, and this color scheme was also applied in weddings, with grooms in red…

In previous features, we discussed the unsurpassable peak in Qipao cinema history—In the Mood for Love. Today, I want to focus on Qipao appearances in TV dramas, highlighting those classic moments where Qipao beauties shone. Each of these beauties has her unique charm, and the Qipao they wore were equally distinctive. In the vast ocean of Qipao styles, external beauty is secondary; the key lies in wearing the Qipao with personal flair and character. First, let's talk about a widely recognized Qipao beauty from recent years—Jing Tian in Rattan (2021). Her portrayal of a vine spirit, set in the Republican era, featured numerous Qipao styles that redefined elegance. The satin Qipao, primarily in pearl white, with its high side slit, atmospheric connected shoulder sleeves, double-round front placket paired with delicate piping and inlaid silk hard flower buttons, exuded both nobility and grace. It was not only light and smooth but also convenient for movement. Paired with Jing Tian's long hair like satin, it combined sexiness and cold beauty. The lace-embellished Qipao in pale blue highlighted her delicate features. The lace perspective showed the female's graceful figure in a hazy and implicit way. With exquisite bead embroidery printing and a small…

Why Do Costume Dramas Always Feature Loose Hair? In TV dramas, we often see characters with 'loose hair' styles, including half - down hairstyles. For ancient people, when was it necessary to tie up their hair? What were the customs around this? The conclusion is that both men and women were expected to tie up their hair in public after reaching adulthood. Many dramas wrongly assume that unmarried women can have loose hair and married women should tie it up. According to traditional etiquette, hair should be tied up after coming of age. Ancient coming - of - age ceremonies were closely related to hairstyles. For men, it was 'Guanli (冠礼)', and for women, 'Jili (笄礼)', also known as 'Shangtouli (上头礼)'. Records show men had Guanli at around 20, and women had Jili at about 15. For women, the Jili, also called 'Jiaji (加笄)' or 'Shangtouli', involved parents or elders tying up their hair and adding a hairpin, symbolizing adulthood and eligibility for marriage. As Confucian texts state, 'A woman promised in marriage is honored with Jili and given a courtesy name.' In Confucian ideology, wearing loose hair after adulthood was seen as barbaric or a disregard for rituals. The…

In the TV series When the Wild Geese Return, Wang Yan's character Aunt Zhou once said that wearing crimson red brightens the complexion. It seems she was right. In traditional Chinese colors, red is the most complexion - enhancing. Whether it's the bright red of the New Year or the peach pink of young girls, it brings to mind the vibrant spring. Actually, the crimson Wang Yan mentioned, judging from her attire, is more like 'Feihong' (妃红) or 'Yanzhi' (胭脂). The term 'Fei' color is related to clothing. One theory says it was originally 'Lychee Color' and became 'Yang Fei Color' because of Yang Guifei's love for lychees. Another theory is that it's named after the colors of her clothes. Anyway, 'Yang Fei Color' is linked to this Tang - Dynasty beauty. It's a milder version of crimson red. To understand its hue, we need to know about 'Fei' (绯) color. In ancient novels, 'Fei' robes describe women in fiery red. The character 'Fei' first appeared in Sui and Tang poetry and was defined by Xu Xuan in the Song Dynasty as 'a deep red dye for fabrics'. Historically, red was 'fire color', and 'Fei' is deeper, so 'Feihong' means…

Isn't It Uncomfortable? In period dramas, we often see these hard pillows. Even in museums, most pillow artifacts are made of wood or ceramic, making one wonder if they were truly this uncomfortable. The answer is that ancient pillows came in various forms, including silk, cloth, ceramic, wood, and even jade. However, softer pillows like silk or cloth ones didn’t preserve as well, so most surviving artifacts today are hard pillows. The Chinese character for 'pillow' (枕) has a 'wood' radical, suggesting that early pillows were primarily made of materials like wood or dried grass. The ancient text 'Shuowen Jiezi' defines a pillow as 'a support for the head during rest.' Some also used stones as pillows, especially in hot summers, as the coolness could relieve discomfort. As living standards improved, pillows diversified. For example, a silk pillow was unearthed from the Han Dynasty Mawangdui Tomb—a soft pillow! This rectangular pillow, embroidered with 'longevity patterns,' was stuffed with Eupatorium leaves, known for their aromatic and medicinal properties. The pillow’s ends were adorned with raised brocade, and its sides featured fragrant silk embroidery. This wasn’t just a silk pillow but also a medicinal one, proving that nobles had access to soft…

Whether watching period dramas or wearing traditional Hanfu, the topic of posture often brings up sloping shoulders, with Liu Yifei being a classic example. So, does classical aesthetics truly equate to sloping shoulders? A recent article on Ming Dynasty undergarments sparked a lengthy debate about the classical aesthetics of sloping versus square shoulders. Today, let’s dive into this discussion. First, the conclusion: Are square shoulders unsuitable for classical attire? Not necessarily. Traditional clothing’s flat - cut structure naturally accommodates the shoulders, creating a softened, secondary shape. The discomfort or visual awkwardness some perceive often stems from posture—some people unconsciously stiffen their shoulders when puffing their chests, while extreme thinness can disrupt visual balance, making the clothes appear oversized. Another factor is tailoring. Many period dramas incorporate structured cuts at the shoulder seams, leading to a constrained look. Style Comparison Hanfu’s flat - cut design allows extra fabric at the shoulder area, creating a graceful curve that enhances the upper body’s fullness and grandeur. While flat - cutting dominates, traditional Hanfu also includes localized structured adjustments like inset panels or darts. However, many period dramas, despite appearing flat - cut, use structured shoulder seams for a modern, fitted look. This results…