It's unclear when it started, but almost all heroines and heroes in ancient - costume dramas now sport high ponytails, and the 'armor battle - damaged makeup' trend has also become popular. Netizens point out that high ponytails can actually hit the face during martial arts practice, which is quite painful. The mass replication of high ponytails and battle - damaged makeup not only risks causing visual fatigue but also likely puts pressure on makeup artists and stylists to create unique variations. Let's revisit the costume drama styles of 50 years ago. The most classic is arguably the image from A Touch of Zen. In 1970, actress Xu Feng starred in A Touch of Zen, which catapulted her to fame and established her cold yet glamorous 'heroine' persona. Her character design featured a high bun, often paired with a headscarf or hat. Over her 15 - year screen career, she appeared in about 50 films, all as a heroine. This sleek attire and hairstyle conveyed an independent, self - reliant, and powerful image. Looking at other classic films, heroines rarely wore ponytails. Even with updos or half - updos adorned with accessories, the styling showcased distinct personalities while still emphasizing…

The cheongsam, a world - renowned national element and part of Chinese culture, has always been an endless source of inspiration for many designers. Compared with the bold and direct charm of Western women, the cheongsam represents the elegant qualities of Eastern women, which are both mysterious and gentle, free - spirited and full of allure. Today, let's talk about how the cheongsam can create unique and subtle chemical reactions in the hands of foreign designers within the Western clothing structure and silhouette design. The internationally famous fashion designer we're going to introduce today, John Galliano, also known as 'Pirate King', is a genius full of creativity. He always creates extreme, gorgeous, and unparalleled fashion aesthetics. John Galliano was born in Gibraltar in 1960. At the age of 6, he moved to the UK with his parents. Due to poor family conditions, he lived in poor areas across the UK during his childhood. This exposure to diverse customs helped him develop a rich aesthetic sense. He is a pioneer among designers in exploring different regional cultures, and his works often feature a large number of Asian, African, and Afro - Latin elements. In 1980, Galliano entered Central Saint Martins College…

The beauty of summer Qipao lies in the allure of silk and satin. The encounter with the scents of gardenia and jasmine marks an unforgettable start. Summer, a vibrant and colorful season, has finally arrived. Although the heat can be tough for many, it's nothing compared to the richness and beauty this season brings. For women who love Qipao, summer is the perfect time to display its inherent charm. Today, let's explore the beauty of Qipao suitable for summer. Song Jin and Su Jin If fabric is the essence of a Qipao, then a Qipao made of Song Jin (宋锦) is a living embodiment of rich historical and cultural heritage. It dates back to the Song Dynasty, telling the story of that era's splendor and the remarkable weaving craftsmanship. A Song Jin Qipao is an excellent choice for summer. With its firm yet soft texture, elegant patterns, and classical allure, the wearer exudes artistic charm and noble grace. Take this Song Jin Qipao as an example. Its unique, classical floral print is eye - catching. The straight - cut silhouette with wavy edges adds a touch of playfulness, while the bold peony motifs in soft camel and light purple create…

It's time for another session of sharing cheongsam details. In previous issues, we've talked about the types of handmade frog buttons on cheongsams, the collar and sleeve styles, and the exquisite front - placket patterns. Today, I'd like to discuss the slits, which play a crucial role in the overall design of cheongsams. Don't underestimate this small detail. A tiny slit can present a variety of charming female moments. A smaller slit results in smaller steps, making the posture and gait automatically slow and elegant. A larger slit offers a stronger sense of fluidity, and the faintly visible legs bring out the charming rhythm of the cheongsam. The slits in cheongsams are like opening the door to the sensuality of Chinese clothing. However, this sensuality is not the straightforward Western - style one. It is based on Chinese female culture and the generally reserved and implicit nature of Eastern women. Through a small opening, it slowly releases the rhythm and charm of female beauty. Next, let's talk about the common types of cheongsam slits, as well as their respective advantages and characteristics. Before that, here's a little knowledge about slits. In the early Republic of China, cheongsam slits were actually…

Who understands! There was a kind of resplendent beauty in old TV dramas. When I was a child watching period dramas, I was always amazed by the large phoenix hairpins and the dazzling golden ornaments on the characters' heads. It fulfilled the imagination of grandeur and nobility. Why is this style less common in modern dramas? Let's start with the conclusion. This style of wearing numerous hairpins was particularly representative of the late Tang Dynasty, with its origins traceable back to the Southern and Northern Dynasties. The late Tang period witnessed unprecedented extravagance in women's hairstyles and attire, often described as 'explosively stylish.' Literary descriptions further deepened our imagination of ancient women's hair ornaments. For example, Emperor Xiao Yan of the Southern and Northern Dynasties wrote in 'Song of the River,' 'Twelve rows of golden hairpins on the head, five - patterned silk shoes on the feet.' Tang poet Shi Jianwu also noted in 'Makeup Removal Poem,' 'Under the lamp, I gaze again at the bronze mirror, vainly inserting twelve rows of golden hairpins.' The popularity of such intricate hair ornaments was due to the Tang trend of high buns. The larger the hairstyle, the more hairpins were used. Thus,…

Today, let's continue our special topic on In the Mood for Love and appreciate the beauty of Maggie Cheung's cheongsams. Before delving into the topic, let's talk about the behind - the - scenes details of this movie. Maggie Cheung changed into 23 cheongsams in In the Mood for Love, all designed by the Hong Kong art director Cheung Shu - ping himself. Some of the cheongsam fabrics were his personal collections over the years, and the patterns and fabrics were already out of print. So, it's almost an eternal regret that it's impossible to recreate Su Lizhen's beauty exactly. Then, these cheongsams were handmade by Hong Kong master Leung Long - kwong, who has over sixty years of experience in cheongsam making. As he said, "I've never changed my profession in my life. I earn money with my heart." For these 23 cheongsams, Cheung Shu - ping was mainly responsible for design, color matching and sourcing fabrics, while Leung Long - kwong was in charge of measuring the body, cutting and sewing. It can be said that without the seamless cooperation of these two masters, there wouldn't be this world - renowned Chinese masterpiece. The emergence of In the…

Is Cross-Dressing in Historical Dramas for Real? In many historical dramas, we often see women dressing as men to navigate various social settings. While modern audiences might view clothing as a matter of personal freedom, in ancient times, women wearing men's attire was far from acceptable—it was considered a breach of etiquette and societal norms. The answer lies in the rigid hierarchical systems of the past, where distinctions between age, gender, and social status were deeply ingrained. The idea of "separating men and women" wasn't mere moral policing but a means to enforce strict gender boundaries. As recorded in the Book of Rites: Internal Rules, "men and women shall not share garments." However, exceptions did exist. During the pre-Qin and Han dynasties, particularly in military contexts, women donning armor was a tactical move. For example, the Records of the Grand Historian: Annals of Xiang Yu recounts that Liu Bang deployed 2,000 women in armor to mislead Chu forces during a critical battle. Such instances, though rare, highlight the strategic use of cross-dressing. The Northern and Southern Dynasties saw legendary figures like Mulan, who famously took her father's place in the army, as immortalized in the Ballad of Mulan. Yet, as…

Finally, a historical drama recreates the coming - of - age rite. In When the Wild Geese Return, there's a scene where Zhuang Hanyan, played by Chen Duling, undergoes the Ji Li (coming - of - age ceremony for women). Netizens exclaimed, 'So this is the touching moment!' Nowadays, most children are considered adults once they reach a certain age, without a formal 'coming - of - age ceremony'. But in ancient China, one couldn't be truly 'adult' without understanding rites and undergoing the Guan Li (capping ceremony for men) for males or the Ji Li for females. Details of Rites Men usually had the Guan Li at 20, and women the Ji Li at 15. Also called 'Jia Ji' or 'Shangtou Li', the Ji Li involved parents or elders tying up the girl's hair and inserting a hairpin, signifying her adulthood and eligibility for marriage. As the saying goes, 'When a woman is betrothed, she undergoes the Ji Li and is given a courtesy name.' The main adornments in these rites were hair - tying and adding a crown or hairpin. Before adulthood, children wore their hair loose. The Guan Li for men had three stages, corresponding to different…

Recently, I've been reading A Treasury of Cheongsams Worn by Chinese Aristocratic Families written by Song Luxia and Xu Jingcan. This book is set against the backdrop of those Chinese aristocratic families that once shone brightly and endured on the historical and political stage. The cheongsam, as the central element throughout this backdrop, is like a cultural micro - cosmet of China's upper class. Through its owners, it reveals the clothing culture, aesthetic trends, humanistic features, and craftsmanship of the last century. The book showcases 90 old cheongsams worn by famous ladies from Chinese aristocratic families. As the authors said, "They are a rare, non - renewable, and endangered collection of specimens of Shanghai - style old cheongsams." These cheongsams represent the highest level of Shanghai - style cheongsams in the last century. The two authors and many colleagues spent a great deal of effort collecting and displaying these cheongsams. It's not just about reviewing and presenting the appearance of national clothing culture but also a challenging task of racing against history and time to rescue more buried, forgotten, and neglected clothing cultural treasures. So, today, let's follow the context and characters in the book to explore the beauty of…

When Qipao meets traditional Chinese red, each piece is a true masterpiece! The fusion of gardenia and jasmine scents creates an unforgettable beginning. Today, I’m sharing about red Qipao. Among all colors, red is undoubtedly the star of Qipao. It's not only associated with wedding attire but also deeply rooted in China's historical and cultural symbolism. Red embodies the soul of Chinese culture, symbolizing auspiciousness, celebration, eternal brightness, warmth, hope, vitality, and prosperity. In Chinese history, the five colors—white, blue, black, red, and yellow—were linked to the Five Elements (metal, wood, water, fire, earth) and virtues (benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom, trust). Starting from the Zhou Dynasty, red was revered as a symbol of power and nobility, gradually becoming a staple in both royal and common households. By the Tang and Song Dynasties, red was widely adopted in daily wear and weddings. In the Tang Dynasty, the fourth - rank officials wore dark crimson, and the fifth - rank officials wore light crimson. The popular colors at that time were crimson, purple, bright yellow, and green. The combination of crimson and green was commonly used for women's clothing, and this color scheme was also applied in weddings, with grooms in red…

In previous features, we discussed the unsurpassable peak in Qipao cinema history—In the Mood for Love. Today, I want to focus on Qipao appearances in TV dramas, highlighting those classic moments where Qipao beauties shone. Each of these beauties has her unique charm, and the Qipao they wore were equally distinctive. In the vast ocean of Qipao styles, external beauty is secondary; the key lies in wearing the Qipao with personal flair and character. First, let's talk about a widely recognized Qipao beauty from recent years—Jing Tian in Rattan (2021). Her portrayal of a vine spirit, set in the Republican era, featured numerous Qipao styles that redefined elegance. The satin Qipao, primarily in pearl white, with its high side slit, atmospheric connected shoulder sleeves, double-round front placket paired with delicate piping and inlaid silk hard flower buttons, exuded both nobility and grace. It was not only light and smooth but also convenient for movement. Paired with Jing Tian's long hair like satin, it combined sexiness and cold beauty. The lace-embellished Qipao in pale blue highlighted her delicate features. The lace perspective showed the female's graceful figure in a hazy and implicit way. With exquisite bead embroidery printing and a small…

Why Do Costume Dramas Always Feature Loose Hair? In TV dramas, we often see characters with 'loose hair' styles, including half - down hairstyles. For ancient people, when was it necessary to tie up their hair? What were the customs around this? The conclusion is that both men and women were expected to tie up their hair in public after reaching adulthood. Many dramas wrongly assume that unmarried women can have loose hair and married women should tie it up. According to traditional etiquette, hair should be tied up after coming of age. Ancient coming - of - age ceremonies were closely related to hairstyles. For men, it was 'Guanli (冠礼)', and for women, 'Jili (笄礼)', also known as 'Shangtouli (上头礼)'. Records show men had Guanli at around 20, and women had Jili at about 15. For women, the Jili, also called 'Jiaji (加笄)' or 'Shangtouli', involved parents or elders tying up their hair and adding a hairpin, symbolizing adulthood and eligibility for marriage. As Confucian texts state, 'A woman promised in marriage is honored with Jili and given a courtesy name.' In Confucian ideology, wearing loose hair after adulthood was seen as barbaric or a disregard for rituals. The…

In the TV series When the Wild Geese Return, Wang Yan's character Aunt Zhou once said that wearing crimson red brightens the complexion. It seems she was right. In traditional Chinese colors, red is the most complexion - enhancing. Whether it's the bright red of the New Year or the peach pink of young girls, it brings to mind the vibrant spring. Actually, the crimson Wang Yan mentioned, judging from her attire, is more like 'Feihong' (妃红) or 'Yanzhi' (胭脂). The term 'Fei' color is related to clothing. One theory says it was originally 'Lychee Color' and became 'Yang Fei Color' because of Yang Guifei's love for lychees. Another theory is that it's named after the colors of her clothes. Anyway, 'Yang Fei Color' is linked to this Tang - Dynasty beauty. It's a milder version of crimson red. To understand its hue, we need to know about 'Fei' (绯) color. In ancient novels, 'Fei' robes describe women in fiery red. The character 'Fei' first appeared in Sui and Tang poetry and was defined by Xu Xuan in the Song Dynasty as 'a deep red dye for fabrics'. Historically, red was 'fire color', and 'Fei' is deeper, so 'Feihong' means…

Isn't It Uncomfortable? In period dramas, we often see these hard pillows. Even in museums, most pillow artifacts are made of wood or ceramic, making one wonder if they were truly this uncomfortable. The answer is that ancient pillows came in various forms, including silk, cloth, ceramic, wood, and even jade. However, softer pillows like silk or cloth ones didn’t preserve as well, so most surviving artifacts today are hard pillows. The Chinese character for 'pillow' (枕) has a 'wood' radical, suggesting that early pillows were primarily made of materials like wood or dried grass. The ancient text 'Shuowen Jiezi' defines a pillow as 'a support for the head during rest.' Some also used stones as pillows, especially in hot summers, as the coolness could relieve discomfort. As living standards improved, pillows diversified. For example, a silk pillow was unearthed from the Han Dynasty Mawangdui Tomb—a soft pillow! This rectangular pillow, embroidered with 'longevity patterns,' was stuffed with Eupatorium leaves, known for their aromatic and medicinal properties. The pillow’s ends were adorned with raised brocade, and its sides featured fragrant silk embroidery. This wasn’t just a silk pillow but also a medicinal one, proving that nobles had access to soft…

Whether watching period dramas or wearing traditional Hanfu, the topic of posture often brings up sloping shoulders, with Liu Yifei being a classic example. So, does classical aesthetics truly equate to sloping shoulders? A recent article on Ming Dynasty undergarments sparked a lengthy debate about the classical aesthetics of sloping versus square shoulders. Today, let’s dive into this discussion. First, the conclusion: Are square shoulders unsuitable for classical attire? Not necessarily. Traditional clothing’s flat - cut structure naturally accommodates the shoulders, creating a softened, secondary shape. The discomfort or visual awkwardness some perceive often stems from posture—some people unconsciously stiffen their shoulders when puffing their chests, while extreme thinness can disrupt visual balance, making the clothes appear oversized. Another factor is tailoring. Many period dramas incorporate structured cuts at the shoulder seams, leading to a constrained look. Style Comparison Hanfu’s flat - cut design allows extra fabric at the shoulder area, creating a graceful curve that enhances the upper body’s fullness and grandeur. While flat - cutting dominates, traditional Hanfu also includes localized structured adjustments like inset panels or darts. However, many period dramas, despite appearing flat - cut, use structured shoulder seams for a modern, fitted look. This results…

Sometimes, it feels awkward to see characters in TV dramas wearing large - sleeved outfits for outings, meals, dates, fights, or even sleeping. Were ancient clothes really all about big sleeves? How inconvenient would it be to use the restroom? Are historical drama sleeves getting even larger these days? One netizen joked: 'So big you could fit a person inside!' Let's get straight to the point. While we often describe Hanfu as 'wide robes and large sleeves', it's important to note that this is a characteristic of formal Hanfu, used to show the wearer's social status, like the historical Dashu Shan (大袖衫) or Gongfu (公服). People rarely wore such exaggerated sleeves outside ceremonial occasions. Let's break down Hanfu sleeve styles. There are many suitable for daily life. Narrow sleeves are practical for labor or martial arts; Chuihu sleeves (垂胡袖), Pipa sleeves (琵琶袖), and straight sleeves are for non - labor daily wear; short sleeves can be casual outer layers or summer homewear. For example, the Quju (曲裾) and Zhiju (直裾) unlined gauze robes, common in the Western Han Dynasty, had sleeve openings around 29 cm wide. Modern fashion sleeves average 10 cm, with looser ones at 15 cm. So, 30…

When the wind blows the hem of the cheongsam, the swaying figure is truly beautiful. Today, I'd like to talk about the cheongsam skirt, that is, the skirt style of the cheongsam. Why this detail? Because when we choose a cheongsam, we must pay special attention to it. Selecting a skirt that suits us, looks good, and has a strong modifying effect is the key to choosing a cheongsam. When choosing a skirt, options like A-line, wide swing, fishtail, straight tube, and various lengths can be dizzying. So today, I'll discuss the different styles of cheongsam skirts, their characteristics, and which body types they suit. Straight Skirt The straight skirt is the most common basic style in cheongsam patterns. It features a straight-up-and-down design. The H-shaped vertical effect makes the skirt fall straight and neatly, making the cheongsam look extra long, upright, and slender. This is why most people choose straight-skirt cheongsams. It suits all body types, has a daily style, and can be worn on various occasions, with a natural sense of dignity. There are usually three lengths for straight skirts. The first reaches the calf. This length is more convenient and daily, with less of the cheongsam's charm…

The encounter between Qipao and the magnificent Chinese green creates unforgettable masterpieces. Green symbolizes the vastest and most touching freedom on earth. As writer Li Juan once said, 'When we see green, we always think: nothing will ever end, right?' This interpretation, though not as romantic or unique as others, perfectly captures the essence of green—its freshness and vitality that bring hope and life from spring to summer. It's no wonder so many people adore and continuously fall in love with green. This love has persisted since ancient times. Starting from the Han Dynasty, influenced by Taoist and Confucian philosophies, green became widely popular in both culture and aesthetics, admired for its natural and serene beauty. Beyond clothing, green was also prominently used in architecture, as recorded in Zhang Heng's 'Ode to the Western Capital.' In ancient Chinese art, green flourished in paintings, particularly in the Dunhuang Mogao Caves during the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern Dynasties. The harmonious blend of green with colors like earthy red, lapis lazuli blue, and black showcased its elegant and rich beauty. By the Tang and Song Dynasties, green became a staple in landscape paintings, symbolizing the vibrant life and artistic refinement of…

The encounter between the scents of gardenia and jasmine promises an unforgettable beginning. Today, we continue our review of cheongsam styles from films and TV shows, focusing on the 2021 Republican - era spy drama The Rebel. This series stood out not only for its stellar cast, including Zhu Yilong, Wang Yang, Tong Yao, Wang Zhiwen, and Zhu Zhu, but also for its nuanced portrayal of faith, humanity, and personal fate against the backdrop of a turbulent era. Zhu Yilong's performance earned him a nomination for Best Actor at the 2023 Magnolia Awards. The show excels in its authenticity and depth, much like the fleeting 'Sanxing Brand' toothpaste ad in the background—a subtle nod to the era's anti - foreign product movement led by industrialist Fang Yexian. However, today's focus is on the cheongsam aesthetics of the 1930s, when Shanghai became the birthplace of the modern 'Haipai' cheongsam. The Rebel serves as a historical corridor, showcasing how women's cheongsams remained vibrant and diverse despite material scarcity. Zhu Yizhen Zhu Yizhen, played by Tong Yao, is the daughter of a wealthy capitalist who abandons privilege to join the Communist underground. Her cheongsams reflect her purity and idealism—often made of linen in…

Too Ahead of Its Time! In the period drama When the Wild Geese Return, the character Zhuang Yushan, the second young miss, often appears in a pink puffy dress. People wonder if ruffled dresses existed in the Ming Dynasty, finding it incredibly fashionable. Let’s start with the conclusion. This style is called Tieli, and a similar one is Yesa. Both were influenced by Yuan - Mongol styles and were popular during the Ming Dynasty. Yesa and Tieli are quite alike, but the most obvious difference is that Yesa has a smooth front panel like a horse - face pleat, while Tieli is fully ruffled. According to Ming Palace History, 'Yesa has an unbroken back panel with side pleats and a front panel divided into two sections with horse - face pleats extending outward.' These styles were mainly men's wear, and women usually wore them for cross - dressing. Does it sound familiar? The once - popular 'Feiyu Fu' (Flying Fish Robe) in dramas, paired with the imposing Xiuchun Dao, is actually this style. 'Feiyu' refers to the pattern, which resembles a python but has a fish tail. Common 'Feiyu Fu' includes both Tieli and Yesa styles. Yesa not only has…