It turns out that there's not nothing under the skirts! In the ancient costume drama The Ferryman of Peace and Tranquility, the image of the puppet wearing pants is truly eye - catching. It seems that female characters rarely wear pants. After reading this, you can boldly say: Ancient women also wore leggings under their skirts, and they were even in the style of harem pants! Previously, in the drama The Splendid Life, there were scenes where the characters almost 'flashed' without leggings, which made many people mistakenly think that there were just bare legs under the skirts. This is really a big joke. Let's start with the conclusion. Pants have existed in ancient times for a long time. Crotch - sewn pants have been unearthed from the Shang and Zhou dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty, a kind of harem pants that could be worn outside even became popular. They had a design to cinch the cuffs, which was very fashionable and convenient for daily life. Similar harem pants appear in The Ferryman of Peace and Tranquility and The Gorgeous Empire. Don't they look exactly the same as the harem pants we wear now? This kind of pants appeared earlier…

Do you also think that commoners in ancient times, like those portrayed in historical dramas, mostly wore coarse linen clothes? You might not know that ancient people also had a few decent outfits for special occasions such as festivals, visiting relatives, or attending weddings. Some have asked why we don't discuss commoners' clothing, assuming the articles only focus on noble styles. People might wonder, 'Could commoners really wear silk or gold in daily life?' There's actually some misunderstanding here. In ancient times, many trends originated among the nobility and later spread to commoners, while some crafts improved among commoners and rose to popularity among nobles. So, there was no absolute rule. Here's the conclusion: ancient clothing styles were quite similar (except for some impractical wide - sleeved designs). What people wore mainly depended on the occasion—for grand ceremonies or rituals, they would prepare finer attire. The quality of clothing was reflected in the fabric, craftsmanship, and vibrancy of colors. Another factor was occupation. Laborers wore durable clothes like hemp garments, but not all commoners worked in fields, so coarse linen wasn't universal. In the Ming Dynasty, for example, the silk industry thrived in Jiangnan (江南), and even ordinary people wore…

It's rare to see short sleeves in ancient costume dramas. Why is that? Did ancient people not have summer Hanfu? Wearing multiple layers must have been unbearably hot, right? Let's get straight to the point. How did ancient people stay cool and stylish? They weren't foolish enough to suffocate themselves in long - sleeved layers. Ancient vests came in short - sleeved, sleeveless, and even strappy designs. If you rummage through an ancient wardrobe, you’d find inspiration that defies our conservative stereotypes. For example, the 'vest' or 'Bijia' was a sleeveless, front - opening garment with slits reaching below the knees. Inherited from the Song Dynasty and popular during the Yuan and Ming dynasties, it usually reached the hips or knees, and some were even longer, less than a foot from the ground. It was often worn over other clothes, and could be worn alone at home when relaxing and enjoying the cool. In the Ming dynasty, such vests were also called 'Gua' or 'Bijia', referring to sleeveless tops of various collar styles. At home, without an undergarment and with lightweight fabric, 'wardrobe malfunctions' were common. No wonder outsiders were barred from the inner quarters! Short sleeves, known as 'Banxiu'…

In the period drama When the Wild Geese Return, Chen Duling's character Zhuang Hanyan wore white at her coming-of-age ceremony, sparking online discussions: 'Isn't this inauspicious?' Actually, ancient Chinese society wasn't overly sensitive to wearing white. The misconception arises from its association with mourning attire, but mourning clothes were made of undyed hemp with a yellowish tint, and their colors varied due to different materials. In fact, white was sometimes worn during festivals, and it was more 'prestigious' than people think. Some online claims that the character wore white as a symbol of revenge are overinterpretations. Here's a quick overview of historical contexts for wearing 'white' in ancient China: White was one of the five traditional colors. Huainanzi states, 'When white is established, the five colors are complete,' highlighting its fundamental role. However, ancient Chinese white wasn't pure white by modern standards. Mourning garments were made of natural hemp, which was yellowish. Commoners' everyday work - wear was also undyed as dyes were costly, making plain fabrics practical. During the Sui dynasty, officials above the fifth rank wore purple; those below wore red or green; clerks wore blue; commoners wore white; butchers and merchants wore black; soldiers wore yellow. In…

Finally, a period drama where characters don't sleep in their day clothes. Many period dramas show characters sleeping fully dressed, which makes netizens wonder: Why neglect such an important daily routine? Did ancient people not have their own 'sleepwear'? Ancient sleepwear was called 'Xieyi' (亵衣). According to Shuowen Jiezi, 'Xie' means private or intimate clothing. Some wrongly think Xieyi is the same as undergarments like breastbands. In fact, it's a close - fitting garment worn over underclothes. Shiming·Shi Yifu says, 'Zhongyi (中衣) is worn outside undergarments and beneath outer robes.' Zhongyi, also known as 'inner clothing,' emphasizes its close - fitting nature. Shuowen·Yi Bu explains, 'Zhong refers to inner Xieyi,' and Tang Dynasty annotations state, 'Xieyi is clothing worn close to the body.' So, Zhongyi and Xieyi are essentially the same. The most common sleepwear was plain, cross - collared Zhongyi and pants. Cross - collars were the most typical style, followed by front - opening and round collars. When wearing front - opening styles, a breastband might be visible. Sleepwear designs changed little across dynasties, only adapting to contemporary fashion. It was often white, which was versatile and easy to spot dirt. There were long - sleeve, short -…

One of the joys of wearing hanfu is discovering how effortlessly it can be adapted to different lifestyles, beliefs, and personal preferences. As a hijabi, one of my biggest considerations when choosing clothing is modesty. Thankfully, many hanfu styles already cater to this ideal with their long, flowing silhouettes, layered structures, and elegant designs. In fact, I’ve found hanfu to be one of the easiest traditional outfits to wear while staying true to both my modesty and aesthetic preferences. Although some hanfu styles are more fitted around the waist or involve shorter sleeves or lower necklines, there are many that work beautifully for hijabis without needing any extra modifications. Personally, I’m especially drawn to Ming dynasty style hanfu. These often feature a mamianqun skirt paired with either a shorter shirt (duijin shan) or a longer robe-style shirt (aoqun or dachang), both of which are generously cut and non-revealing. The fabrics drape naturally, the overall silhouette is loose, and the layering makes it feel effortlessly modest. The added bonus? Mamianqun prints are just stunning. The way the pleats open and close as you walk, revealing flashes of the pattern, creates a sense of movement and beauty that makes me feel elegant…

In fantasy-themed TV dramas, immortals are often depicted wearing pristine white robes that flutter in the wind, sometimes blending Eastern and Western styles. But is this historically accurate? While modern interpretations mix ancient Chinese aesthetics with European influences, the dominance of white or light-colored costumes has led to the saying: Elegance comes from simplicity. However, a closer look at ancient murals reveals a far more colorful wardrobe for these celestial beings. Historically, immortal attire drew inspiration from real-life clothing of specific dynasties, adorned with intricate accessories. For example, Dunhuang murals heavily influenced the costumes in The Long Ballad, incorporating Buddhist-inspired designs and vibrant color palettes. Authentic Chinese immortal garments trace their roots to Taoist art, such as Gu Kaizhi's Nymph of the Luo River or Wu Daozi's Eighty-Seven Immortals. The Chaoyuan Tu murals in Yongle Palace showcase lavish robes with wide sleeves, adorned with jade pendants and ornate headpieces—far removed from today's minimalist portrayals. These outfits followed Hanfu's foundational structure, layered with accessories like feathered capes and tasseled sashes. Modern xianfu (immortal-style costumes) blend traditional elements with theatrical flair—think sheer fabrics, ribbons, or even lace—to create a fairy-tale aesthetic. While visually striking, they differ markedly from historical references. Ultimately, whether…

In the spoilers for the TV series Family Business, a scarf appeared. Isn't this a drama set in the Ming Dynasty? Fans questioned: Isn't this scarf too modern? First, let's clarify: we actually had similar scarf-like accessories in ancient times, known as Xiangpa (项帕), Lingjin (领巾), Yongxiang (拥项), or Fengling (风领). The term Weibo (围脖) also appeared during the Ming Dynasty. These accessories served two purposes: protection against cold and decoration. During the Southern Song Dynasty's Yuanxi Festival, women often wore Xiangpa, a decorative neck wrap. Zhou Mi, a scholar from the Song Dynasty, documented in Old Stories of Wulin: Yuanxi: During Yuanxi, women adorned themselves with pearls, jade ornaments, and Xiangpa, often wearing white garments suitable for moonlight. This suggests Xiangpa was a silk or brocade scarf, combining warmth and style. This aligns with historical records of Lingjin from the Song Dynasty. For example, Chen Yunping wrote in Drunken Peach Blossom: With delicate accessories and a tilted Lingjin, her hair was styled in twin buns. While Xiangpa and Lingjin shared similar materials and functions, Lingjin was more versatile, worn by both men and women. Artifacts like Tang Yin's Palace Ladies of the Shu Kingdom depict Lingjin as a triangular…

In recent years, there’s been a surge of interest in hanfu, not just as traditional attire, but as something that can be part of everyday life—including the workplace. For women who love hanfu and want to express that part of their identity in professional settings, there are more options now than ever before. With both modernised and traditional hanfu being widely available online, it’s becoming increasingly realistic to integrate this historical clothing into our weekday wardrobes. Modern hanfu—sometimes referred to as “fashion hanfu”—has already been adapted for casual social use. According to NewHanfu, it “inherits the elements of traditional Hanfu, and through long-term innovation and development, it is well adapted to the convenient social life in today's modern times.” This means pieces are typically more streamlined, accessible, and comfortable, often made with materials and cuts that suit daily wear. As a result, many modern hanfu outfits can already pass for smart-casual in a workplace setting. Pairing these with accessories like a structured purse, a watch, or a blazer can easily help elevate the outfit to look more professional without compromising the hanfu aesthetic. That said, I personally think there’s also space for more traditional hanfu elements in the workplace—if styled…

The Versatile Design of Tang Dynasty Outerwear Liu Shishi's costume in the new drama Kill My Sins features a loosely draped Hanfu style that has sparked online discussions. This garment, known as Piao (披袄), represents a traditional outerwear design from the Tang Dynasty. Unlike modern coats, this historical clothing piece demonstrates remarkable adaptability across seasons and occasions. The Piao originated from the Yuanlingpao (圆领袍), a round-collar robe commonly worn during the Tang era. Through practical modifications, ancestors transformed it into a multi-functional garment. The collar was widened and curved for both aesthetic appeal and warmth retention, while some versions adopted straight collars. When worn open, the decorative inner lining became visible, creating a sophisticated yet understated fashion statement. Tang Dynasty clothing didn't follow strict seasonal classifications. Instead, people adjusted the fabric thickness and layering for temperature regulation. Historical records like Tang Liudian (唐六典) document how winter versions contained specific amounts of padding, essentially serving as ancient down jackets. Summer versions featured lighter materials, functioning similarly to modern air-conditioning jackets. This practical design wasn't limited by gender - both men and women wore variations of the Piao. The garment's versatility allowed it to serve as a windbreaker in autumn, insulated coat…

Have you ever noticed that in both historical dramas and everyday fashion, fur coats or cloaks are usually worn with the fur side out? But does this really keep you warm? It turns out, most people might be wearing fur incorrectly. The truth is, the way fur is worn depends on its purpose and setting. Ancient paintings reveal that for warmth, people wore fur with the hair side against their skin, covered by an outer fabric layer. Only a bit of fur peeked out at the collar, serving both insulation and decoration to showcase the garment's quality. In contrast, ancient nobility often flaunted full or partial fur pieces indoors to display wealth and status, while hunters wore small fur patches to signify their profession. Today, however, fur is predominantly worn hair-out for aesthetics, regardless of practicality or social standing. Historically, fur worn externally has always been a luxury statement rather than for warmth. Note: We advocate for animal welfare and encourage using faux fur alternatives. Fur Garments in Ancient China In ancient China, fur garments were called Qiu Yi (裘衣), ranging from affordable to extravagant. They appear in poetry, like Li Bai's line about 'a dappled horse and a thousand…

In the Japanese drama The Great Buddha Opens His Eyes, Satomi Ishihara's costume has sparked discussions online. Many pointed out that her hairstyle resembles the popular style of early Tang Dynasty in China, rather than the Tenpyo era in Japan. The answer is clear: this is the Shuang Ji Ji (双髻髻), a hairstyle popular from the Sui to early Tang Dynasty. It features two looped buns on the head, commonly worn by children and maids. Similar styles can be found among Chinese artifacts preserved in the Shosoin Repository. Not just the hairstyle, but even the eyebrows match the Tang Dynasty's aesthetic. Additionally, the Mei Ban Hua Dian (梅瓣花钿, plum - petal forehead decoration) and Mian Ye (面靥, dimple makeup) on the sides of the lips also draw inspiration from Tang fashion. In the Chinese historical drama Guo Se Fang Hua (国色芳华), actress Yang Zi wore this hairstyle, meticulously recreated based on murals and relics. The Shuang Chui Ji (双垂髻, double - drop bun) also appeared, a style beloved by Tang Dynasty noblewomen and often paired with men's round - collar robes. The drama references elements like the Mian Fu (冕服, emperor's ceremonial robe), Shi Er Zhang Wen (十二章纹, twelve imperial…

For a while, many people dressed up as Daji wearing the so - called 'Warring States Robe,' especially after the release of the 'Fengshen' movie series. However, some noticed that Daji never actually wore such attire. So, what should Daji wear? What is the 'Warring States Robe'? First, let's clarify what the 'Warring States Robe' is. The term is closely tied to the Mashan No.1 Chu Tomb, where well - preserved prototypes of Warring States period clothing, specifically the 'Zhi Ju Robe,' were discovered. Most modern reproductions are based on artifacts from this tomb. Although originating from the Chu Tomb, due to limited research on unearthed artifacts, the Zhi Ju Robe's appearance is somewhat similar to indirect relics like murals from the same period. Thus, it's often loosely assumed that the Zhi Ju Robe represents noble attire popular across the six states. Clothing Styles of Different Periods However, there are distinct differences between the clothing styles of the Xia - Shang - Zhou, Spring and Autumn, and Warring States periods. The Xia - Shang - Zhou era marked a transition from primitive to civilized society, reflected in clothing. Nobles, officials, and commoners wore more refined garments, while slaves still donned…

When observing Tang Dynasty paintings, it's hard not to notice the low-cut necklines of women's dresses, some even revealing enough to make modern viewers blush. This fashion trend was widespread throughout the Tang era. What caused this phenomenon? The answer lies in a combination of factors, including economic prosperity, increased female confidence during Empress Wu Zetian's reign, and cultural exchanges with minority groups (such as the adoption of Hu clothing styles). However, climate played an equally crucial role. Renowned meteorologist Zhu Kezhen, in his study "Preliminary Research on Climate Change in China Over the Last 5,000 Years," noted that the Tang Dynasty experienced a warm period. The capital, Chang'an (modern-day Xi'an), located at a latitude similar to present-day Nanjing, endured sweltering summers with average annual temperatures exceeding 20°C. Even emperors sought refuge in cooler northern regions, and bestowing ice upon officials became a prized reward. This climate directly influenced Tang fashion, leading to the popularity of round-neck, U-neck, and cross-collar designs, as well as short sleeves and lightweight silk fabrics. From early to high Tang periods, low-cut dresses with necklines plunging to the chest—often seen in blush-inducing murals—became fashionable. Poets like Bai Juyi (Feet scorched by steaming earth, backs burned…

Recently, netizens noticed something special about Liu Shishi's costume in her new drama. It looked surprisingly like a modern short-sleeved T-shirt. However, this is actually a traditional Tang Dynasty garment known as Tanling Banbi (坦领半臂). Let's break down the name. Tanling refers to the neckline style, while Banbi  indicates the sleeve length. Combined, they describe a specific type of clothing popular during the Tang Dynasty. The Tanling Neckline The Tanling neckline resembles modern pullover shirts. This style dates back to the Shang and Zhou dynasties, though its exact structure remains unclear. It became particularly fashionable in the early Tang Dynasty. Compared to the round neckline, Tanling features a wider opening, often extending to the chest. Some designs even include a pointed center, earning it the nickname "chicken heart neckline". The resemblance to T-shirts comes from this broad neckline, similar to today's fashion pullovers. However, unlike modern T-shirts, Tanling garments usually have buttons or ties at the front or side for fastening. This design allowed wearers to change clothes without disturbing their elaborate hairstyles. The Banbi Sleeves The Banbi sleeves, often seen in period dramas, are typically associated with maids due to their practicality. However, they were not exclusive to any social…

In recent costume dramas like "Da Feng Da Geng Ren," it's noticeable that many female characters wear the same style of necklace. Is this a trend from a specific historical period? And don't they mind wearing identical pieces? The answer lies in the term "Yingluo." Derived from the words "Ying" and "Luo," which originally referred to beautiful jade, Yingluo now signifies a multi - gemstone ornament. It's not just limited to necklaces but can also adorn armbands and shawls. In Buddhism, Yingluo symbolizes worldly treasures and is known as "infinite light," often appearing in U or V - shaped necklaces with multiple layers. Historical texts like "The Dream of the Red Chamber" and "Jin Men Yang Shi" mention Yingluo made from gold, silver, pearls, and other precious materials. During the Sui Dynasty, Yingluo was long and simple, but by the Tang Dynasty, it became shorter, more intricate, and highly popular among noblewomen. The trend influenced fashion, with materials ranging from jade to amber. Poets like Liu Yuxi and Yuan Zhen documented its popularity, and by the Ming Dynasty, Yingluo evolved into necklaces with pendants like longevity locks. Even today, Yingluo - inspired designs add a touch of classical elegance to…

When we think about ancient Chinese clothing, a curious misunderstanding often arises—many believe that the clothing of specific dynasties was determined by the seasons. For instance, people sometimes think of Tang Dynasty garments as summer wear, and Ming Dynasty attire as winter clothing. The idea seems odd at first, as we know that every era experienced all four seasons, so why would the clothing of one dynasty be associated with just one temperature? It turns out that this perception stems from a combination of misinterpretations and misconceptions about the nature of ancient Chinese garments. Let’s break down why this understanding doesn’t quite hold water. The Tang Dynasty: More Than Just Summer Fashion The Tang Dynasty is often associated with light, airy, and flowing garments, especially the famous "Qixiong Ruqun", which has become iconic in many representations of ancient Chinese fashion. This lightweight attire—made from silk and other fine materials—gives the impression of being suited for hot weather. But the truth is, Tang fashion wasn’t just about comfort during the heat. A deeper look reveals that many Tang garments, although appearing simple, actually consisted of several layers, which weren’t always visible on the surface. The illusion of "light" clothing in modern…

Have you ever noticed the distinctive headband worn by Lan Wangji in 'The Untamed'? This traditional accessory, known as Mo'e (抹额), has recently made a comeback in popular TV dramas like 'The Dream of Splendor'. But what exactly is its purpose? Functions of Mo'e in Ancient Chinese Society Mo'e served two primary functions in ancient Chinese society. First, it acted as a ceremonial identifier, particularly in military and official settings. Historical records from the Qin to Song dynasties mention 'Junrong Mo'e' (军容抹额) - special headbands worn by soldiers and honor guards as uniform insignia. The 'Song Shi' documents imperial guards wearing purple embroidered robes with Mo'e and silver belts during grand ceremonies. Secondly, Mo'e had practical applications in daily life. Yuan dynasty women from scholar and commoner families adopted Mo'e to secure their hairstyles during work. By the Ming and Qing dynasties, Mo'e transcended social classes to become a universal fashion statement. Even Tang dynasty women wearing male attire would complement their outfits with Mo'e. Etymology of Mo'e Etymologically, the character 'Mo' (抹) implies binding or tightening. Han dynasty texts reveal early terms like 'Mo' (陌) and 'Pa' (帕) referred to similar hair-binding functions. The 'Shi Ming' describes it as…

Once confined to historical reenactments and museum displays, the horse-face skirt has galloped into global streetwear. Today’s Mamianqun renaissance blends reverence for tradition with bold reinvention, transforming this Ming-era icon into a symbol of cultural fluidity. From Tokyo’s Harajuku district to New York Fashion Week, the skirt’s four-panel silhouette is rewriting the rules of cross-cultural style. The Mamianqun’s journey to modernity began with subtle adaptations. Designers first softened its structure for daily wear: Lighter Fabrics: Replacing heavy brocades with linen blends for summer-friendly versions. Adjustable Waistbands: Incorporating hidden elastic or drawstrings to accommodate diverse body types. Modular Design: Detachable outer panels allow wearers to switch between minimalist and ornate looks. Shanghai-based label Ming 2.0 sparked a trend with their “Commuter Mamianqun,” featuring water-repellent silk and pockets discreetly hidden in pleats. Its viral TikTok campaign (#MamianqunInMotion) showcased cyclists weaving through Beijing’s hutongs, skirts fluttering like ink paintings come to life. The horse-face skirt’s architectural lines have inspired unexpected crossovers: Punk Rebellion: Tokyo designer Yuri Takahashi pairs black leather Mamianqun with metallic chain belts, slashing outer panels to reveal neon underskirts. Bohemian Rhapsody: Los Angeles brand East Meets Dress layers lace-trimmed horse-face skirts over denim, accessorized with Navajo turquoise jewelry. Techwear Integration: Seoul’s Hanbok Futurism collective embeds LED…

Why didn't the high-waisted hanfu skirts (齐胸裙) worn by people in the Tang Dynasty fall down? This kind of skirt didn't have elastic bands or other similar measures. Did it rely on large breasts to stay up? Could it really stay in place without falling? The Principle of Skirt Fixation As we all know, in the Sui and Tang Dynasties of China's clothing history, the waistline of skirts became popular to move up. The current popular way of wearing it is called "high-waisted". As the name suggests, since it is worn on the chest and the high-waisted skirts we often see don't have shoulder straps, the force can only go downward. Then the chest must bear the necessary pressure. Let's think in a more straightforward way. We know that a skirt won't fall when tied around the waist because the waist is like a mortise and tenon structure. As long as it is tied tightly enough to prevent the waistline from slipping, you rarely see a wrapped skirt falling off unless it isn't tied properly. Similarly, for high-waisted skirts, as long as the tying part is tightened, you can jump around without the skirt falling. Fabric and Design Considerations Of…