Ancient portraits and modern period dramas showcase women with gravity-defying towers of hair. From The Glory's (雁回时) intricate Ming-style coiffures to the Tang Dynasty grandeur in Flourished Peony (锦绣芳华), these elaborate styles spark wonder. How did historical figures achieve such volume? The answer lies not in mythical hair growth, but in ingenious artifice. Long before modern extensions, ancient artisans crafted sophisticated hairpieces known as Ji (髻)—the foundation of historical hairstyling.
Materials of Illusion
Far from relying solely on precious human hair, craftsmen employed diverse resources. Excavations at Astana Graves in Xinjiang revealed a lacquered wooden Ji shaped like a "single-blade half-upturned bun." This hollow structure, painted black with white floral motifs and clouds, featured small holes for securing hairpins. Wearers concealed their natural hair within this lightweight frame, creating instant volume and a base for ornaments.
Another ingenious example used dyed palm fibers. Wrapped around a linen core and shaped into spirals, these pieces offered a ready-to-wear solution. Early classifications in the Zhou Li (周礼) distinguished types: the ornate Fu (副), the simpler Bian (编), and the blended Ci (次). Later terminology simplified to Bi (髲) and Ti (鬄). Materials ranged from affordable palm and horsehair for daily use to meticulously knotted human hair for elite ceremonies.
The Tang Dynasty elevated wig artistry. Historical records like Zhuang Tai Ji (妆台记) and Ji Huan Pin (髻鬟品) documented over thirty distinct styles. A Tang poem humorously depicted a court lady's three-pinned wig tumbling during a dance, prompting the emperor to gift her a sturdier comb. Even Yang Guifei (杨贵妃), immortalized in Zhou Jie's portrayal, relied on these accessories, as noted in Yang Tai Zhen Wai Zhuan (杨太真外传).
Symbols of Status and Sacrifice
Wearing Ji transcended aesthetics, signaling social standing. During the Yuan Dynasty onwards, Han Chinese women favored delicate Jiu Ji (鬏髻)—mesh caps woven from gold thread, horsehair, or silk, covered with sheer gauze. These foundations supported elaborate full headdress sets, transforming the wearer into a vision of wealth and refinement.
Procuring human hair involved complex trade and sacrifice. Scholars cite three primary sources: voluntary sales by impoverished individuals, hair confiscated from convicts, and diplomatic tribute. The Sanguo Shiji·Xinluo Benji (三国史记.新罗本纪) records four hair tributes from Silla to Tang China, including "eighty taels of hair" during Emperor Xuanzong's reign. Personal sacrifice also played a role. The Shi Shuo Xin Yu (世说新语) recounts how Tao Kan's mother cut and sold her knee-length hair to buy rice for her son's unexpected guest.
Beyond adornment, wigs held ritualistic importance. Specific styles denoted marital status, age, and participation in ceremonies. The sheer complexity of some constructions, requiring hours of assembly and multiple retainers, served as undeniable markers of elite privilege.
Global Echoes of Hair Artifice
This pursuit of ideal hair volume crossed continents. Seventeenth-century Europe saw King Louis XIII popularize wigs to conceal baldness, igniting a trend among nobility. Horsehair wigs became symbols of authority in courts and persist today in some legal traditions. Modern parallels are clear: contemporary fashion embraces hairpieces for versatility, allowing dramatic changes without chemical damage.
Ancient techniques still influence modern wig-making. The layered structure of Tang Dynasty buns—using lightweight bases and strategic wrapping—mirrors methods used by today's high-fashion hair artists. Museums preserving artifacts like the Astana wooden Ji offer tangible links to this enduring craft, showcasing solutions to a timeless desire for transformation.
Despite discomfort—itchiness, weight, or the fear of mishaps like the Tang dancer’s—the drive to enhance natural hair persists. From palm fiber spirals to lace-front wigs, humans consistently innovate to meet beauty ideals. The ancient Ji stands as a testament to ingenuity, proving that magnificent hair has always been, in part, a masterpiece of illusion.
