Hanfu Making

As one of the most popular styles of hanfu, Ming Dynasty Aoqun has a rich variety of styles and styles, and the Jiaoling Aoqun is one of the most common styles. This article is based on the artifacts of Jiaoling Aoqun, so that you can quickly understand the correct Ming Dynasty Aoqun top shape for your next hanfu purchase as well as hanfu making. Image quoted from hanfu making hobbyist @Sue簌簌.   1 Overall 1.1 Youren (右衽, the left lapel covers the right lapel). 1.2 A single layer is a Shan (衫) and a double layer is a Ao (袄). 1.3 Cutting method: with center seam and no shoulder seam.   2 Collar   3 Sleeves 3.1 Aoqun top can have a variety of sleeve shapes. 3.2 Pipa sleeves are wide, not narrow. 3.3 The benchmark through-arm length of Pipa sleeves is nearly two meters. 3.4 The sleeve root should not be too narrow. 3.5 The sleeve is divided into a section or two sections connected. 3.6 Sleeve pleats often accompany the existence of the sleeve edge.   4 Garment body 4.1 The underarms should be curved. 4.2 It is right with or without shoulder pleats. 4.3 The waist should…

This article is a supplemental part of Hanfu Making(2) - Aoqun Cutting & Sewing Patterns. Together with a series of pictures on making a Ma Mian Qun (马面裙, horse face skirt), it will analyze the structure of Ma Mian Qun and mainly explain how to calculate the pleat width of a Ma Mian Qun. All dimensions are in centimeters (cm). "The data in this article does not take into account the seam allowance, you need to leave 1cm+ space in the seam allowance when you are actually making the dress."   1. About fabric prepare 6 identical pieces of fabric with a width of 60cm and a length that combines your actual needs. Sew 3 pieces together into one piece of fabric with a width of 180cm. Since the most fabric used for making Hanfu is about 150cm wide. So it needs to be pieced together to achieve a longer width. Please note the distinction between the horizontal and vertical directions of the fabric. You can choose a fabric with a nice print for your skirt and it is easier to confirm if it is in the right direction.   2. Structure of the Ma Mian Qun Ma Mian (马面,…

This section contains improved Hanfu (改良汉服). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction Wearing hanfu is not just for the sake of retro and vintage, but also to show classical beauty and promote the traditional culture of the nation. However, many people have misconceptions about hanfu, believing that the process of wearing hanfu is tedious and that it is not convenient to move around after wearing it. In fact, hanfu is not necessarily a wide robe with big sleeves. The hanfu system itself contains short and slim tops, as well as short-sleeved and narrow-sleeved types of clothing. The hanfu tops can be matched with modern skirts and pants with a little improvement of the form, as long as the shape and color match. The "improvement" referred to here is not to develop to Western-style three-dimensional cutting, but to make certain modifications to the hanfu pattern, such as reducing the sleeve length and cuff width, and making slight modifications to the shape to make it more suitable for matching with modern clothing, combining tradition with fashion, while maintaining the basic shape and flat cutting method of hanfu. It is hoped that this…

This section contains Yisan (曳撒, yì sǎn). Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction Yisan is one of the costumes of the Ming Dynasty, evolving from the Yuan Dynasty Bian Xian Ao (辫线袄), but it is still part of the hanfu system because it has a cross collar and has long been incorporated with Han Chinese elements. The shape of Yisan is very special. The front part is cut and sewn separately, the upper garment is short from the front, and the lower garment with pleats is connected at the waist. The back part is cut as a whole, the length is equal to the front garment length plus the lower garment length, and there are no pleats like other long garments. There is hem on both sides of Yisan, also called "Er (耳)" Yisan was mostly worn by military officials or members of the imperial family in the Ming Dynasty, and could be used as riding clothes, and one of the main uniforms of the Jingyiwei officers was Yisan. The fabric color of Yisan was usually red, blue, dark green, etc., and could be…

This section contains Shenyi (深衣). Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction Shenyi is a long, straight Changshan with a separate upper Yi (衣) and lower Chang (裳), and joined together to cover the body. There are many different ways to cutting and sewing a Shenyi, but this section is only one of the simpler ones. To make a Shenyi, 12 pieces of equal-sized trapezoidal fabric are prepared and sewn together as a lower Chang, then the upper Yi garment and lower Chang are sewn together. It is also necessary to use another color of fabric as the edge, which eventually the completed Shenyi. The fabric of Shenyi is mostly white cloth, and the edge needs to be made of darker color fabric. In ancient times, if both parents and grandparents are alive, the edge is made of patterned fabric; if the parents are alive, the edge are made of cyan fabric; if orphans, edges are made of plain fabric. Shenyi gives people a graceful and elegant feeling. The basic features are cross collar, wide sleeve roots, slightly closed cuffs, and a Dadai (大带) as…

This section contains Panling Robe (盘领袍), Lanshan (襕衫). Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction In the Sui and Tang dynasties, the basic features of the Yuanling Shan (圆领衫, round neck shirt) were narrow sleeves, a slightly shorter length, and a straight strip of cloth standing on top of the collar. Later, the collar of the round neck shirt began to gradually become wider and lower, to the Song dynasty, has completely become the collar edge of the pan collar spreading, while the cuffs become larger, the body of the garment becomes longer. Ming-style Panling Pao (pan collar robe) added hem on the basis of Song style, its collar production process is generally straight cloth strip folded, and then ironed into shape, along the inner circle with line sewing tight, so that the collar edge curved to fit the round neckline, collar edge end nailed with buttons for fixed. The Panling Robe was widely used as imperial costumes and official uniforms in the Ming Dynasty, with the basic features of a pan collar, Pipa sleeves or wide sleeves, and hem on both sides of the garment.…

Tips for Ironing Hanfu Tops Silk, Cotton and linen Since this type of fabric is a non-chemical synthetic natural material, it requires a higher requirement for ironing. Silk For hanfu made of silk, it is relatively less wrinkle-resistant and therefore needs to be ironed to be straight and beautiful. To keep clothes in a semi-dry state when ironing (or use a spray can to wet clothes evenly before ironing), set to low-temperature ironing (or "silk" file) ironing is best to choose a flat, wide place for the ironing table. Before ironing, lay a layer of white cotton linen for the bottom. If you are using a hanging ironing machine, it is best to use a wooden hanger, in the process of ironing do not over-pull the sleeves, just gently lift, so as not to cause clothing deformation. So the best conditions to use the ironing board, more convenient ironing underarm, collar, and other details. Cotton and linen Clothes made of cotton and linen are more resistant to high temperatures compared to silk and chemical fibers. However, when ironing it is best to iron the inside first to avoid the color spreading. When ironing the outside, pad the fabric with white…

This section contains Zhiduo (直裰), Zhishen (直身), Daopao (道袍). Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction Zhiduo is a kind of costume from the Song Dynasty, the initial is mostly worn by monks, a few literati also wear, Song Zhiduo is generally not slit. By the Ming Dynasty, Zhiduo had become widely popular among literati and scholars, and the basic features of Ming Zhiduo were the cross collar, knee-length garment, slit on both sides without Bai (摆), generally with a collar guard on the collar, and mostly with pipa sleeves. The cutting and sewing patterns in this chapter are based on Ming Zhiduo. Zhishen was also an important costume of the Ming Dynasty, as well as Zhiduo and Daopao, the basic features of Zhishen are the same as Zhiduo, with a cross collar, more collar protection, pipa sleeves, and knee-length, but the difference is that there is outside Bai on both sides in Zhishen. Daopao is one of the traditional costumes of Taoism, but it was also the main style of casual wear and dress for scholars in the Ming Dynasty, so Daopao was not…

Made this vest from the last of white striped chiffon.

This section contains Shuhe (裋褐). Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction Shuhe (裋褐), also known as "Duan Da (短打)", originally meant a coarse cloth upper garment woven with coarse hemp or animal hair, was a simple cross-collar upper garment worn by commoners in ancient China, usually with looser pants underneath, mostly used for casual wear or work clothes. The basic features of the Shuhe are Jiao Ling You Ren (交领右衽, cross collar and wrapping the right side before the left), the shortest sleeve length over the wrist, the longest slightly beyond the fingertips, mostly straight sleeves or arrow sleeves, narrower cuffs, the length of the garment to below the waist, the longest above the knee, and the two sides need to be divided into slits. Shuhe can not simply be equated with the cloth worn by the poor, although this garment can not do the formal occasions worn by the dress, but its use is very wide, and the use of Shuhe is determined by its characteristics, because wearing Shuhe more convenient for action, so it has become a daily work, farming, long-distance travel necessary…

This section contains Banbi (半臂). Size range: Jiao Ling Banbi  (155/80A to 185/104A), Zhi Dui Jin Banbi and Xie Dui Jin Banbi (155/64A to 175/96A). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction Banbi (半臂), also known as "half-sleeve", is a short tunic developed from the upper Ru (襦) since the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and can be roughly divided into two collar types: Jiao Ling (交领, cross-collar) and Dui Jin (对襟, lapel). Compared with long-sleeved tops, the difference is that the sleeve length can reach the elbow. In the Tang Dynasty, the Banbi was already a popular garment worn by both men and women. In the long years, its wearing method is also basically limited to the set of other long-sleeved clothes, because in formal occasions, the ancient people will never wear Banbi alone and show the arm. But with modern aesthetics, today's Jiao Ling Banbi (交领半臂) can be worn alone in summer, which is somewhat similar to the short-sleeved T-shirts worn by modern people, and because of its shorter sleeve length, it does not hurt to pair it with a modern skirt, and men can also wear a Banbi with…

Hanfu has grown very popular today. In fact, the hanfu industry is now worth over 1 billion and has kept increasing over the years. Even today, it is still increasing. Many young and old people alike wear hanfu daily: in the streets, at school, casual wear, etc. The wearers also say that hanfu gives them a sense of national identity. However, how exactly are the intricate pieces made? There are several steps to it. First, silks and fabrics must be made. Second, embroidery and decorations must be done on the cloth. Then, tailors and hanfu makers buy the cloth and sew it. After much work, beautiful hanfu are made but let's get into detail... 01. Silk making 1. In Chinese mythology, silk is said to be invented by Lady Hsi Ling Shih, the wife of the yellow emperor who ruled from about 3000 BC. However, written references of silk was found at the Shang dynasty site in Anyang. Silk was first discovered and created in China. Real silk is very valuable and is one of the most expensive fabrics in the world. There are several types of silk but the most common type is silk made from the cocoons of…

This section contains Quju (曲裾). Size range: 155/80A to 175/96A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction The basic style of the Quju is the Jiao Ling You Ren, the back lapel is lengthened to form a triangle, which passes down the back and around to the front lapel, and then a Dadai (大带) is tied around the waist to cover the end of the triangle, with a pleated skirt underneath. The Quju was popular from the pre-Qin to Han dynasties, before the invention of the Ku (袴), and could be worn by both men and women, with the hemline of the men's Quju being wider and the hemline of some women's Quju taking on a unique "trumpet flower" style. Later, men's Quju gradually disappeared, and for a long time, Quju remained in the mainstream of women's clothing. However, in the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the Ruqun, which was easier to wear and more convenient for walking, became widely popular, while the Quju began to disappear, and in the long history that followed, the most popular women's clothing was the Ruqun style. Although the Quju disappeared early in history, it…

This section contains Pan collar Aoqun (盘领袄裙), which can be divided into: Pan collar Da Ao (盘扣大袄), Pan collar Duan Ao (盘扣短袄). Size range: 155/80A to 175/96A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction The round collar tunic was not originally a Han dress, but a new type of dress introduced in northern China during the Sixteen Kingdoms period (when the southern part was under the Eastern Jin Dynasty), and became completely popular in ancient China after the Sui and Tang dynasties. However, this costume has evolved over time and has become completely Han Chinese, and as such has become an important and indispensable style in the Han clothing system. The Ming system Pan collar is a kind of round collar, evolved from the Sui and Tang round collar, generally straight cloth is first folded in half, then ironed into shape, along the inner circle with thread sewn tightly, so that the collar edge curved into a round shape, and the end of the collar edge nailed with buttons for fixed. The Pan collar Da Ao (盘扣大袄) can be used as a woman's formal dress, usually with Pipa sleeves or wide…

This section contains Beizi (褙子), which can be divided into: Xie Duijin Beizi(斜对襟褙子), Zhi Duijin Beizi (直对襟褙子). Size range:  155/80A to 175/96A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction Beizi is a kind of top with a pair of lapels, which relies on two ties in front of the chest to hold it in place, so it must be worn over other clothes, and is knee-length with slits on both sides. In the Ming Dynasty, it was also called "Pifeng". Beizi can be worn by both men and women, with men mostly using them as Bianfu (便服) and women using them as Lifu (礼服, formal dresses). There are two types of Beizi painted in this section: Xie Duijin (diagonal lapels) Beizi and Zhi Duijin (straight lapels) Beizi, mainly women's wide-sleeved Beizi, with a Ma Mian Qun or pleated skirt underneath. In addition, for the Zhi Duijin Beizi, you can make men's Beizi by enlarging the size and making slight alterations, or you can make women's narrow-sleeved Beizi by reducing the size of the sleeves.   Size chart   Xie Duijin Beizi(斜对襟褙子)    Zhi Duijin Beizi (直对襟褙子)   More Hanfu Style…

Zimu Kou (子母扣, metal clasp button) is the most common accessory for making Ming-style Hanfu, and if you make a Ming Hanfu yourself, they are a must-buy material. Usually, you need about 7-10 buttons to make a Duijin Duan Shan (对襟短衫) with a stand-up collar. A good-looking Zimu Kou can become the highlight of the clothes, adding texture and a sense of sophistication, and good clothes should find a matching button to complement each other.   About Zimu Kou's selection Metal Zimu Kou is more suitable for autumn and winter Shan and Ao and other outer clothing, but sometimes too thin fabric to support too heavy Zimu Kou. Pifeng's Zimu Kou larger (only one, so need a larger one, can do embellishment, or highlight). Zimu Kou applied to the collar should choose easy to buckle on, the size of the buttons than the size of the garment is a little smaller. Gorgeous button style, more suitable for clothes with woven gold, dark pattern and so on.   About the care of Zimu Kou General copper and silver-plated material button are easier to oxidation, over time will become black. Usually to keep clean, dirty to wipe as soon as possible. If…

This section contains Ruqun (襦裙), which can be divided into: Jiao Ling Shang Ru (交领上襦), Dui Jin Shang Ru (对襟上襦), Zhe Qun (褶裙) type A, Zhe Qun type B, Qi Xiong Shang Ru (齐胸上襦). Size range: Jiao Ling Shang Ru, Dui Jin Shang Ru, and Qi Xiong Shang Ru (155/80A to 175/96A),  Zhe Qun (155/64A to 175/80A). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. The Ruqun in this section should actually be called "Shan Qun (衫裙)". Ruqun is supposed to refer to the Hanfu style from the Wei and Jin dynasties, with a Yaolan (腰襕).   Introduction Ruqun (襦裙) is one of the earliest and most basic clothing forms in the history of Chinese dress. The Ruqun described here generally has a short upper Ru, reaching only to the waist or flush with the chest, while the Qun (skirt) is long and hangs down to the ground. According to the different styles of the collar, can be divided into: Jiao Ling Ruqun(交领襦裙, cross-collar); Dui Jin Ruqun(对襟襦裙, lapel). According to the height of the skirt waist, can be divided into: Zhong Yao Ruqun(中腰襦裙, mid-waist), the same as the Qi Yao Ruqun(齐腰襦裙); Gao Yao…

This section contains Aoqun (袄裙), which can be divided into: Duan Ao (短袄), Da Ao (大袄), Mamian Qun (马面裙). Size range: Duan Ao and Da Ao (155/80A to 175/96A),  Mamian Qun (155/80A to 175/80A). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.     Introduction In the Ming Dynasty, women's Hanfu clothing is very popular in the form of clothes cover skirt way of dress, the most common "Aoqun (袄裙)" is a Ming Dynasty women's clothing general term, that is, the upper Ao (袄, jacket) with the lower Qun (裙, skirt) with the way, and not a single piece of clothing. The "Ao" in this section refers to a cross-necked female top, and the "Qun" refers to a Mamian Qun (horse-face skirt). Early Hanfu tops were mostly called "Ru (襦)", and after the Wei and Jin Dynasties, they were also called "Ao" and "Shan (衫, shirt)". Nowadays, it is generally considered that the Aoqun is longer and covers the waist of the skirt, while the one that requires the clothes to be tucked into the waist of the skirt is the Ruqun (襦裙), but both belong to the Ruqun system. The Ming-style Aoqun…

This section includes Zhongyi (中衣) and Zhongku (中裤). Size range: Zhongyi (155/80A to 185/104A), Zhongku (155/64A to 185/88A) Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.   Introduction Zhongyi, also known as Liyi, is worn outside of underwear and within outerwear (the Chinese meaning of 中 is equivalent to the middle), and its role is similar to that of a shirt in modern clothing, which can be used to match and complement the role of Zhongyi. Zhongyi cannot be worn outside, and in addition to playing the role of a shirt, it can also be used as home wear and pajamas. The Zhongyi illustrated in this section is the common cross-collar arrow-sleeved Zhongyi, while the broad Zhongyi also includes Zhongdan (中单), Zhongku (中裤, pants), and Zhognqun (中裙, skirts). Zhongyi common fabric types are cotton, cotton linen, chiffon, monochrome satin, etc. In addition to the most commonly used white fabric, girls can also choose colored fabrics when they match the Ruqun, the colors of which are bright green, soft yellow, peach, purple and gray, etc. Men wearing Pan collar robe with Zhongyi can also choose red. Because Zhongyi's body and collar than the outer clothing…

Original Author: Huafeng Mozhu (华风墨逐) Hanfu Cutting & Sewing Patterns Detail Zhongyi (中衣) Aoqun (袄裙) Ruqun (襦裙) Beizi (褙子) Pan collar Aoqun (盘领袄) Quju (曲裾) Banbi (半臂) Shuhe (裋褐) Zhiduo/Zhishen/Daopao (直裰/直身/道袍) Panling Pao/Lanshan (盘领袍/襕衫) Shenyi (深衣) Yisan (曳撒) Inspired Hanfu (改良汉服) Updating   Preface Ethnic costumes are different from ordinary clothes that only play the role of warmth and decoration, but they are one of the elements of the appearance of a nation and an important carrier of its traditional culture. It is also an important carrier of the traditional culture of a nation. The cultural connotation of traditional costumes of different nationalities is different, and it can naturally show the spiritual civilization and aesthetics of the nation. Hanfu is the traditional costume of the Han people, also known as "Han Zhuang" or "Hua Fu".Since the time of the Yellow Emperor, Yao and Shun, hanfu has taken a basic form, and after the inheritance of the rituals of the Zhou Dynasty, it has formed a perfect system of clothing and crown and spread to the people in the Han Dynasty. The hanfu had been developed for thousands of years until the fall of the Ming Dynasty, when it was temporarily stopped.…

Maybe you often have the idea of making your own Hanfu, in addition to buying a new Hanfu. In this article, we will briefly introduce the steps of Hanfu making and the common fabrics used in Hanfu making. I hope it will be helpful to you. 01 Steps & Difficulties of Hanfu Making The first step in Hanfu making is to determine the shape (style) and draw the pattern design. The second step of Hanfu making: determine the fabric and pattern. The process of fabric usually includes: printing (印花, yìn huā), embroidery (绣花, xiù huā), gold weaving (织金, zhī jīn), gold sprinkling (洒金, sa jīn), gold printing (印金, yìn jīn) and so on. For example, this one-piece pleated skirt is made with embroidery + decorations on the skirt head, gold and silver silk fabric (colorful silk fabric) + different printing patterns on the left and right + gold sprinkles and gold foil effect fabric and technology, rich in layers. The fabric of the Hanfu needs careful preparation: because the patterns and embroidery printing may need to be redesigned and drawn, and even if there is a prototype of the pattern, it needs to refer to the material for secondary creation.…

Today, we'll be sharing a tutorial on Hanfu make, by Midnoonight: how to make a Tang dynasty shawl - Peizi. In the Tang Dynasty, Shan + Qun + Peizi is a classic three-piece set for girls. They can be worn in many ways and are very easy to match. A Video explanation is available at the bottom of the article. Sketch Let's confirm the shape of the Peizi, by drawing a rectangle and curving the sides of the rectangle to form the shape of a boat. Some decorations can be added to the Peizi, such as a Yinluo (璎珞) pattern. The fabric used is narrow floral silk.   Cut & Sew up Align the ends, draw a curve according to the paper pattern, and cut it out. As the fabric is narrow, the edges do not need to be hemmed, just hemmed where the ends have been cut. Sew and iron smooth.   Decorative Now it's time for Yingluo decorative stitching, let's call it a 1Y1 formation. Calculate the approximate amount of material to be used. Mark each cycle 2.5cm apart on the fabric. Make the "1" first, noting that the last bead is used to block the garnet, and…

Today, we're sharing how to make a Hanfu clothing: Song Dynasty shirt. Let's DIY your own Hanfu. A Video explanation is available at the bottom of the article Sketch The characteristics of the Song-shirt are long sleeves and front opening. When wearing, the front can be folded. The length from the back center to the shoulder is 1/4 of the full length. For overlapping, 1/4BL(bustline)=25CM, armhole depth 23cm. Sleeves can be straight or narrow. Neckline width is 9cm, draw a vertical line in the direction of the hem at the shoulder neck points, i.e. the front. The front is almost straight. There's only a little radian around the corner of the neckline, you can make your front part bigger if you have enough fabric. Cut Prepare a piece of fabric firs. First, fold out the length of a garment along the direction of the weft line. Draw on the fabric at 1:1 size according to the layout you just drew. Cut the neckline, Be careful that the collar is a single layer, so don't cut the bottom layer off. Half of the body will be ready. Cut off the other half of the body symmetrically. Cut out two parts with…

Diy crafting is a lot of fun, and not only can you be fully engaged in the process, but it's also very rewarding to finish a piece with your own hands. The same goes for making your own Hanfu, which is why we've launched this series, will continue to update the Hanfu sewing pattern and process of making different styles of Hanfu for you in the future.   Introduction to Pifeng Hanfu Pifeng(披风, cape) is a form of Chinese Hanfu clothing, mostly straight-necked, Duijin (对襟), with two long sleeves, with slits under both armpits, can be worn both indoors and outdoors. From many portraits as well as notes on the data, Pifeng used to be a popular clothing style of the Ming Dynasty.   Sewing Pattern Explained - Making Cuts Tutorial The Pifeng shape is not complicated, and those who like to make Hanfu or DIY Hanfu dress can try to make it if have the right fabric. Overall: A/B/C/D equal width, 50~60cm Cuff width 30-60cm (depending on sleeve size) Width of sleeve heel 30~40cm The collar is opened to the level of the armpit, and the width of the collar opening is twice as wide as the width of…