History & Culture

Traditional Chinese colors come from nature and from the imagination of the ancient Chinese civilization. Traditional Chinese colors pursue the color concept of giving colors according to types and conveying consciousness through colors. In ancient times in China, there are positive colors and inter colors, with the distinction of respect, and lowly; righteous, and evil. Positive color refers to the color that promote each other, that is, the original color. Ancient primary colors to "Yin Yang Five Phases" doctrine in the five elements, water, fire, wood, metal, and earth, respectively, corresponding to black, red, cyan, white, and yellow as color symbols, known as the five-color system. Traditional Chinese clothing colors are also mainly primary colors. With the development of the times, different dynasties revered different colors, and these popular colors also reflected the material and spiritual civilization of their dynasties to a certain extent. Hanfu Shi Dai has compiled a summary of the traditional hanfu color schemes through dynasties, let's explore together.   Han Dynasty The Han Dynasty was influenced by the Taoist philosophy of Huanglao and Confucianism, and its costumes often pursued the essential beauty of the whole. At the same time, by the previous Qin dynasty, the concept of black…

Tea set and tea-drinking are tightly connected. Many historical records and materials have proved that tea-drinking hasn’t appeared until the turn of Qin Dynasty and Han Dynasty. Chinese tea culture sprouted during the Wei and Jin Dynasties, during which the usages of tea existed in various ways, including food, medication, beverages, and so on. Among all, tea has been mostly taken as a kind of beverage. According to the "Guangling Xiaolao Zhuan", there has already elderly women who sold tea for a living on the markets in the Jin Dynasty. It was quite a competitive business with numerous pedlars as well as customers. From such phenomenon, it can be seen that drinking tea was highly prevalent at that time. At the time under the governance of Emperor Xuan of the Han Dynasty, Wangbao has written "武阳买茶 (buy tea in Wuyang)" and "烹茶尽具 (cook tea and prepare clean tea sets)" in his book "Tong Yue (僮约)", this is the earliest record of tea drinking and buying in China. In modern times, a celadon urn, carved with the character of "Cha (茶, tea)", with a height of 33.5 centimeters was found in a tomb in Huzhou, Zhejiang Province, which was built in…

As the chill of winter melts away, spring brings with it a sense of rejuvenation and new beginnings. In ancient China, this feeling was often celebrated through the tradition of spring excursions. For many, the new season signaled a time for renewal, rejuvenation, and adventure. While modern-day excursions may look vastly different, there are still traces of ancient springtime traditions that can be observed throughout China. From blossoming gardens to vibrant festivals, join us on a journey through the rich cultural history of spring in ancient China. Spring excursion in the pre-Qin period was romantic and charming. There are many love poems in the "Classic of Poetry", all of which took place during spring excursions. 《郑风·出其东门》：出其东门，有女如云。It means that the people of Zheng like to spring excursions, and when they leave the east gate of the city, they can see many girls on their spring trips, which is a good opportunity for the men of Zheng to meet love. 《郑风·溱洧》：士与女, 殷其盈矣。It means that at the River Zhen and the River Wei, the men and women of Zheng were seen everywhere on their spring excursions. Many men and women fell in love with each other during the spring excursions and became engaged…

Among the many Tang Dynasty relics in the Xinjiang Museum's History Hall, two painted clay women figurines on horses are particularly attractive: "Horse and Female Rider". One is from Turpan Astana Tomb No. 187, excavated in 1972, showing a woman with dignified features, wearing a Wei Mao (帷帽), holding the reins in her left hand and sitting on top of a saddle, a typical image of a noblewoman riding a horse at that time. The other figurine was excavated in 1973 from Turpan Astana Tomb No. 216 and shows a woman riding a red horse with white skin and red lips, wearing a Wei Mao, which is quite charming. Looking at these two figurines of ladies, we can see a scene in our mind: in the city of Gaochang more than a thousand years ago, during the early spring, several fashionable Tang dynasty women wearing Wei Mao and riding their horses slowly, the ladies seem to be talking about something; and not far away, under the pavilion, a noblewoman with a graceful physique is concentrating on playing Go.   Mysterious underground history museum Astana is known as the "Underground Museum of Turpan", the ancient tombs are located in the northern suburbs…

What is Hong Men Banquet? Hong Men Yan (鸿门宴; hóng mén yàn), also known as Feast at Swan Goose Gate or Hongmen Banquet is a banquet that took place in 206 BC. The banquet is known as the story of Xiang Yu wanting to kill Liu Bang. Liu Bang had conquered Xianyang, and the last Qin Emperor, Ziying (子婴), had surrendered to him. Hearing that Liu Bang was planning to declare himself King of Guanzhong, Xiang's adviser Fan Zeng urged Xiang Yu to kill Liu Bang, After entering Xianyang, Liu Bang's behavior changed somewhat, which shows that his ambition is not small and ambitious, if we let him develop and grow, it will be too late to regret in the future. So Xiang Yu decided to host a banquet to entertain Liu Bang and kill him. Xiang Bo was Xiang Yu's uncle and was good friends with Zhang Liang. He sneaked into Liu Bang's army to inform Zhang Liang to escape for refuge. Zhang Liang introduced Xiang Bo to Liu Bang. Liu Bang made a marriage contract with Xiang Bo in order to draw him in. The next morning, Liu Bang came to Hong Men with more than 100 soldiers to meet…

In history, there have been many beautiful clothing styles in every period, such as the Chinese cheongsam, which has formed a unique clothing culture, and the Pan Kou, which was born in response, has gradually developed from an ancient sash to a cheongsam accessory that is both practical and decorative, thus forming a unique handcrafted skill.   01 Origin of Pan Kou The button of the cheongsam is called Pan Kou (盘扣, Chinese frog closures) or Pan Niu (盘钮), which is a kind of button used in traditional Chinese clothing, used to fasten the lapel or decoration, it is developed from the ancient Chinese knot. The Bei Zi (褙子) unearthed in the Southern Song tomb in De'an, Jiangxi, was tied with Pan Kou. This shows that as early as the Song Dynasty in China, people used Pan Kou to fasten loose clothes. The role of Pan Kou in the evolution of Chinese clothing has changed, it not only has the function of connecting the lapels, but is also known as the finishing touch to decorate clothing. It vividly expresses the decorative interest of Chinese costumes that emphasize meaning, connotation, and theme.   02 The production and types of cheongsam button…

In ancient China, women's headwear was very gorgeous, and in addition to gold and silver jewelry, beautiful flowers were often worn as accessories. In the Song Dynasty, from the court down to the folk, both men and women loved flower hairpins. In this article, let's explore the history of traditional Chinese flower hairpins.   Origin of Flower hairpins The earliest record of the custom of flower pinning is from the period of Emperor Gaozu of Han, in which Lu Jia wrote in his "Nan Yue Xing Ji" that women in the Lingnan region liked to wear jasmine flowers as hairpins. During the Sui, Tang, and Five Dynasties period, flower hairpin was very popular among the Central Plains. At this time, society was open, people pursued fashion and novelty, and there was a wide variety of clothing and accessories, including flower pins. In the painting "Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers", we can see that the ladies are wearing peonies, lotus, hydrangea, and other flowers in their hair, which has a unique flavor. The Tang Dynasty also featured men wearing flower hairpins, and the emperor often rewarded officials and scholars with flowers. In the Song Dynasty, the custom of flower…

Are you looking to add some extra flair to your cheongsam outfit? Cheongsams are already a stunning traditional Chinese dress that exudes elegance and grace, but with the right accessories, you can take your outfit to the next level. Whether you're attending a formal event or simply looking to spice up your daily wardrobe, the right accessories can make all the difference. From jewelry, hats to handbags, there are many options to choose from. Here are some of the best accessories to match with your cheongsam.   01 Shawl A shawl can be a beautiful accessory to pair with a cheongsam outfit. One of the advantages of wearing a shawl with a cheongsam is that it can add an extra layer of warmth and comfort, especially if the dress is made of lightweight fabric. Additionally, a shawl can add a touch of elegance to the outfit, especially if it is made of luxurious fabric such as silk or cashmere. Another advantage of wearing a shawl with a cheongsam is that it can be used to add some color and texture to the outfit. A brightly colored or patterned shawl can complement the dress and create a beautiful contrast. It can…

As an objective visual aesthetic element, the color in nature has a stable aesthetic meaning as the cognitive ability of the aesthetic subject improves and the aesthetic interest accumulates. Human cognition of the objective color world is the sublimation of people from material cognition to spiritual cognition, so color has strong psychological properties and emotional factors. During thousands of years of history, the Chinese people, with their unique cultural character, have gradually formed their own philosophical and discursive view of color in their consideration of nature and themselves.   1 Traditional Chinese Color Theory Ancient Chinese color theory is mostly derived from man's profound understanding of ecological phenomena in nature, as well as the imitation and generalization of natural colors. On this basis, the ancients linked their understanding of color with the traditional "Wuxing (五行, five phases)" philosophy, forming a very oriental flavor of the "Wuxing & Wuse (五行五色, five phases, and five colors" color theory. When the ancients began to understand color at the beginning, they saw that everything in the world was covered with harmonious and beautiful colors, so they had the desire to follow suit and collected colorful objects for their own decoration. With a further understanding…

Wearing incense sachets in daily life, or burning the incense burner when reading or sipping tea, the pursuit of fragrance by the ancient Chinese surpassed even modern times. The combination of form and spirit is the ancients revered spiritual states. Clothing provided the form of the real state, while the flavor implied in the air gave the spirit part. The documentary "The Flavor of History" features a unique perspective that brings hanfu and flavor together again.   Tang Dynasty Ruilongnao (瑞龙脑) is produced in the country of Brahma (now Brunei). In addition to growing in hot places, it needs to be smoked to release its aroma. But its flavor is as cool and pure as its appearance, like a contradictory combination of noisy and silent, entwined and moving. In the clothing system of the Tang Dynasty, color was an important clue to distinguish the superior and inferior. According to the Book of Tang - Records of Yufu, the emperor's regular clothes are Chi Huang (赤黄, a color between yellow and red, #F8CE00) robes, Fu Tou (幞头), nine rings belt, and Liu He boots (六合靴)". At the time of Emperor Gaozu of the Tang Dynasty, it was officially stipulated that Chi Huang…

"Under the Microscope: The Tax Case of Silk" is arguably the most exciting historical costume cdrama of 2023 so far. Unlike most costume cdramas, "Under the Microscope" presents an exciting taxation curiosity case of the Ming Dynasty in only 14 episodes. The tight plot and accurate restoration of the Ming Dynasty make everyone start looking forward to the second season (there are six stories in the original, and the silk tax case is the first one). The drama is set in the Ming Dynasty time, showing Chinese aesthetics and authentic Ming Dynasty costumes. Shi Yue from Han Fu Shi Dai has compiled a list of the classic hanfu styles that appear in the drama, so let's learn about them.   Shuhe & Zhiduo Shuai Jia Mo, the main character in the drama, is a mathematical genius who relies on measuring land to earn a modest income. He was not enrolled in the civil service and was a commoner. Shuai Jia Mo often wears Shuhe and cloth shoes, highlighting his simple and unpretentious temperament. Shuhe (裋褐): also known as Heyi (褐衣), Buyi (布衣), refers to the rough cloth clothes worn by ordinary people. Feature with cross collar, narrow sleeves, usually shorter,…

Recently, Zhou Xun's Qipao (旗袍, cheongsam) dress look in the movie "Hidden Blade" brought this traditional costume back into the spotlight. If it is said that every era has representative clothing, then, the Republic of China women's closet must not be missing one cheongsam.   01 Fashionable clothing in the Republic of China period Qipao dress can be said to be the most representative clothing in the Republic of China. For social needs, the ladies also often update cheongsam style. Song Meiling often wore cheongsam, when she went to the United States to seek support for the war, especially when she spoke in the U.S. Congress, the image of a black satin cheongsam stunned the crowd, while boarding the major U.S. magazines. The popularity of the cheongsam owes much to the successful incorporation of practical Western elements without losing traditional Chinese features. Although designated as one of the Chinese dresses, the Qipao dress is actually a Western-style wear under a Chinese-style appearance. On the outside, the Qipao dress still adheres to the traditional Chinese elements such as silhouette, Pankou, and vertical collar, and the custom of "right overlapping" is also retained, which constitutes the unique aesthetic form of the Qipao…

So maybe you’ve been interested in hanfu for a while, and you’ve vaguely started to pick out the differences between Ming Dynasty aoqun and Tang Dynasty heziqun, but you still have no clue what the order of the time periods are or even what they were characterized by. Upon a quick sift through Wikipedia, there’s just wayyyyy too much information to process, and you don’t even know what information to look for—what matters to your understanding of hanfu culture. Fear not! Here’s a compendium of what you need to know about the historical context of hanfu.   The Structure of Ancient Chinese History There’s a phenomenon in Chinese history that we call the Dynastic Cycle. Ancient China was ruled over by many different time periods called Dynasties, each with a family of rulers, and most of these follow the same general scheme: the central ruling power is established, the population goes up and the country flourishes, corruption starts affecting the political scheme, people revolt, and the country either dissolves into several warring states or gets conquered by another group of people. Then one state emerges victorious over the other ones or the invaders, the next dynasty is established, and the…

Cheongsam, as one of the traditional Chinese dresses, can be seen as one of the tags of oriental women. It is like an ink-scented rice paper, which writes the history of Chinese dress, and like an inscription of the ancient time, even the folds of which contain the scent of ancient culture. It is not only a garment, but also a carrier of traditional Chinese culture. As one of the key elements of the composition of cheongsam, the collar shape has a very important influence on the style of cheongsam. Traditional cheongsam collar, often with a stand collar design, formed an elegant effect, with good effect in highlighting the lines of the female neck and body. The details of the cheongsam collar, show the workmanship, also the soul of the cheongsam. The right collar type can fit perfectly with the body, but also with the cheongsam as a whole, to the overall style of cheongsam into more exquisite aesthetic temperament, from the fundamental focus on temperament.   The origin of the cheongsam collar The relationship between modern cheongsam and Qing dynasty Manchu robe is still controversial, but it is undeniable that there is an inextricable relationship between cheongsam and Qi…

Introduction of Chinese Lanterns Chinese lanterns (Deng Long, 灯笼), also known collectively as Deng Cai (灯彩), an ancient Han Chinese traditional craft. Through thousands of years of development, Chinese lanterns have developed different regional styles, each with a unique artistic expression. Every year, around the Lantern Festival on the 15th day of the first month of the lunar calendar, people hang up red lanterns, which symbolize the meaning of reunion, to create a festive atmosphere. Lanterns are closely related to the life of Chinese people and have become a symbol of joy and celebration. Through the succession and development of lantern artists in the past generations, a colorful variety and high level of craftsmanship have been formed. There are various types of lanterns: palace lanterns, sarong lanterns, and so on. The outer layer is mostly made of thin bamboo or wire skeleton, and covered with transparent materials such as paper or yarn, and the candles are burned inside for lighting and decoration. The origin of the Chinese lantern has a variety of sayings, one of the more widely circulated is: during the Eastern Han Dynasty, the emperor Liu Zhuang advocated Buddhism, heard that Buddhism has the practice of the 15th…

For centuries, the cheongsam has been a symbol of elegance, femininity, and Chinese culture. Also known as qipao, this form-fitting dress has been worn by women in China and beyond, captivating the world with its stunning beauty and timeless charm. While the cheongsam is now a fixture on fashion runways and red carpets around the world, its origins and evolution tell a captivating story of cultural exchange, fashion innovation, and societal change. From its early beginnings in the Qing Dynasty to its modern-day reinventions, the history of the cheongsam is one of the most fascinating and enduring tales of fashion history. In this article, Hibetterme explores the rich history of the cheongsam, the characteristics of modified cheongsam, and how to pick the right style of cheongsam for you.   The Evolution of cheongsam The origin of the cheongsam is actually quite controversial. Some scholars believe that it is the robe of the Qing Dynasty, and in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, it gradually evolved into the current cheongsam due to social changes and the influence of Western culture. Some scholars also point out that the origin of cheongsam should be older than the Zhou, Qin,…

In China's long history, there have been countless thousands of distinguished generals and military strategists, and even today, their noble deeds and achievements are still often talked about. In this article, we will introduce Bai Qi to you. Bai Qi was a very famous general in the state of Qin during the Warring States period and his military successes laid a good foundation for the later unification of China by Emperor Qin Shihuang. According to historical records he won more than 70 battles, and never lost one. In his lifetime his troops killed over a million soldiers. Bai Qi (白起; 332 BC – 257 BC), also known as Gongsun Qi (公孫起), was a military general of the state of Qin (秦) during the Warring States period (战国时代) of China. Born in Mei (present-day Mei County, Shaanxi), Bai Qi served as commander of the Qin army for over 30 years, being responsible for the deaths of over one million people, earning him the nickname Ren Tu (人屠 lit. manslayer'). According to the historical book Shiji (史記) he captured more than 73 cities from six other enemy states, and to date no records have been found to show that Bai suffered a single…

The Definition of Auspicious Costume Ji Fu (吉服, auspicious costume) was a new classification of clothing formed in the Ming Dynasty, referring to the clothing used for various auspicious occasions such as seasonal festivals, weddings, birthdays, and banquets. In the Qing Dynasty, it became a specialized category within the clothing system. Traditional Ji Fu refers to the clothing used for auspicious ceremonies (major rituals, etc.). With the development of the times and the increase in festivals and celebrations, there was a need for a special auspicious costume for all kinds of festive occasions, so the Ming dynasty referred to a more formal dress than the everyday casual dress for rituals and all kinds of auspicious occasions as the auspicious costume. Although not found in the system, the term "Ji Fu" was repeatedly used in various political books and literary works. During the Ming dynasty, the auspicious costume was not a single standard style, but the same style as the regular and casual hanfu costumes, such as Yuan Ling Pao, Zhi Shen, Yi San, Tie Li, Dao Pao, Ao Qun, etc. The color was mostly in festive colors such as red, for example, the officials used to wear a red round…

Vocab “Step ban” or “walking ban” - Jin Bu (禁步, jìn bù) - an accessory often matches with hanfu. It is an accessory that is threaded together with jade stones and hung over a hanfu dress.  Jade pendant - Yu Pei (玉佩, yù pèi) - also an accessory made of silk threads, beads, and jade stone that hung at the waist. But yùpèi are much simpler than Jin Bu, oftentimes it is just a jade with one or two beads tied together with thread. Oftentimes there will be no silk or bead tassels at the bottom like Jin Bu.   Materials Jin Bu are usually made up of colored silk threads, jade beads, and jade pendants combined together. There may or not have tassels made up of silk thread at the end of the accessory. If not, the tassels may also be made up of threaded beads.  Jin Bu in the past were made up of precious stones, and since they are threaded, they will clash together when walking making jade clash. If this is heard now people might not think much about it, but the etiquette and customs were stricter in ancient times, especially on feminine etiquette and how…

Today is the Lantern Festival, the first full moon night of the year in the Chinese Lunar New Year. In the Chinese lunar calendar, the first month of the year is called the month of Yuan (元), and the ancient people called the night Xiao (宵), so it is called the Yuan Xiao (元宵, Lantern Festival), also known as Shang Yuan (上元) and Yuan Xi (元夕). On this night, all activities revolve around lantern. As a specific festival, the Lantern Festival was shaped in Sui, and from Tang to Qing Dynasty, it was continuously grand, gradually forming a festival custom with lanterns as the core. How did people spend the Lantern Festival in the past? Follow The Palace Museum to check out the Lantern Festival customs that inherited for thousands of years.   Rich Traditional Lantern Types Both daily or festival, from the palace to the folk, the ancient people used a wide range of lantern styles, characters, flowers, birds, fish, insects, and so on. The exquisite and chic appearance of the lanterns gives good meaning. During the Lantern Festival, there are some specific categories of lanterns. For example, the Qingcheng lantern is a custom-made palace lantern in the Forbidden…

Vocabulary Ji, 笄 (jī) - the most simplistic hair accessories to secure updos used by ancient Chinese.  Zan, 簪 (zān) - a more complex version of Ji. What hanfu hairpins are now called. On one end are accessories, and the other is a pin that is inserted into a hair bun. Chai, 钗 (chāi) - also a hairpin quite similar to Zan. Chāi have two split pins on one end. The two pins will get pushed into the hair bun and stay much more securely than one pin in Zan and Ji. Guan, 冠 (guān) - literal translation is "crown". The crown in ancient China looked more like a net hat that encompassed hair buns within. Based on the crown, any sort of hairpin can be used to further secure the hat to the head.   Materials and Purpose Ji are considered the earliest and plainest hair accessories. It takes on the shape of a stick with or without a simple carved out design on one end and a single stick on the other. It is often carved out of a single piece of material or cut out separately then assembled at the end. This accessory is said to exist even…

At the end of 2022, a documentary with only four episodes went online, "Dunhuang and Venice: Above Desert and Sea". Perhaps Marco Polo's visit to China is the only positive encounter between Dunhuang (敦煌) and Venice in history. They reunited with a new look in this documentary. From east to west, from sand to sea, the Silk Road conveys the most wonderful exchange of materials, culture and people.   East Meets West In 1271, Marco Polo set out from Venice for a long journey and crossed 6,400 kilometers of sand and sea. In his travelogue, he noted down a place called sandbank, which was Dunhuang. In the long river of history, the two seemingly completely irrelevant cities have more connections because of the Silk Road. For example, the cotton weaving of Persia appeared in Dunhuang Tang Dynasty documents and also appeared beside the governor of Venice. The pattern of lotus appeared in the Mogao Grottoes and also in the gorgeous clothes of the Madonna. Lapis lazuli from Afghanistan is not only the profoundest sky in Dunhuang frescoes but also the purest blue in Titian's works. Many traders may not travel the entire length of the Silk Road, but one short…

Since the Chinoiserie style became very popular, Dunhuang culture has naturally become one of the focuses. Many Chinese actresses and hanfu models have tried the Dunhuang flying apsaras. Dunhuang flying apsaras, as the top popular exotic culture, how is it possible to combine grandeur and ebullience in such an ingenious way? It all starts with the Dunhuang murals.   The Origin of Dunhuang Frescoes During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the divisive political situation made people’s lives turbulent. The concept of Buddhism’s compassion and salvation provided comfort to suffering people and developed rapidly. There was a monk on way to the west, passing through Dunhuang and encountered a golden light spectacle, identified as a holy place. He hired the craftsman to dig caves here and carve Buddha statues. Over time, not only the princes and nobles, and even the common people have come to Dunhuang to excavate Buddhist caves, then the scale of the grottoes gradually expanded. Gradually, Dunhuang, located at the west end of the Hexi Corridor, has become a true fertile land for the spread of Buddhism, forged a rich treasure house of art and culture. Grand, magnificent, and surpassingly beautiful, Dunhuang has an unparalleled aesthetic background, known…

Like the dragon, Feng (凤, phoenix) is the most representative of the Chinese totem. As a rumored divine bird, the appearance of the phoenix also gathers the advantages of hundreds of beasts. In the ancient book "Er Ya", Guo Pu noted the image of a phoenix "chicken head, snake neck, swallow chin, turtle back, fishtail, variety of colors, about six feet high." But in the long years, the image of the Chinese phoenix has also been completely different in different times.   Shang and Zhou Dynasties During the Shang and Zhou dynasties, ancient people's primitive totem worship of the phoenix gradually turned into awe of centralized rule. The divine bird phoenix has its special political meaning and has become an auspicious symbol of peace in the world. Phoenix patterns usually only appear in bronzeware and jade decorations, which are the patent of princes and nobles. During the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, bronzeware was mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies and had a strict hierarchy. The sacrificial use determines the solemn and majestic overall style of bronzeware, and also affects the choice of pattern decoration on bronzeware. During this period, the phoenix pattern is mainly the image of Kuifeng (夔凤). The overall…