Hanfu Making(9) – Zhiduo Zhishen Daopao Cutting & Sewing Patterns

This section contains Zhiduo (直裰), Zhishen (直身), Daopao (道袍).

Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A.

Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.

Introduction

Zhiduo is a kind of costume from the Song Dynasty, the initial is mostly worn by monks, a few literati also wear, Song Zhiduo is generally not slit. By the Ming Dynasty, Zhiduo had become widely popular among literati and scholars, and the basic features of Ming Zhiduo were the cross collar, knee-length garment, slit on both sides without Bai (摆), generally with a collar guard on the collar, and mostly with pipa sleeves. The cutting and sewing patterns in this chapter are based on Ming Zhiduo.

Details of Zhiduo – Ming Style Hanfu Jacket

Zhishen was also an important costume of the Ming Dynasty, as well as Zhiduo and Daopao, the basic features of Zhishen are the same as Zhiduo, with a cross collar, more collar protection, pipa sleeves, and knee-length, but the difference is that there is outside Bai on both sides in Zhishen.

Details of Zhishen – Ming Style Hanfu Outerwear

Daopao is one of the traditional costumes of Taoism, but it was also the main style of casual wear and dress for scholars in the Ming Dynasty, so Daopao was not necessarily used as all Taoist costumes.

Daopao is a long outer garment with a cross collar and large sleeves, and a concealed Bai on both sides of the garment. The collar edge is wide and a collar guard is usually added. Daopao is larger than Zhiduo and Zhishen of the same size, especially the hem is wider.

Daopao – Ming Style Hanfu Taoist Robe

Zhishen, Zhiduo, and Daopao shapes are still relatively similar, this section will be the same size Zhiduo and Zhishen put together, rather than separate. Commonly speaking is “Zhiduo + the external Bai (摆) = Zhishen“, so in each specification of Zhiduo attached to a Zhishen drawing, the size is directly applied to the front of the same specification Zhiduo, the difference is the addition of an external Bai.

To prevent confusion, the three simple ways to distinguish between them are briefly described as follows.

• Zhiduo both sides only slit, but no Bai.
• Zhishen has Bai on both sides, which is on the outside.
• Daopao has Bai on both sides, which is on the inside.

For a detailed description of Bai, please refer to the second part of this article: Hanfu History | The Development of Chinese Robe System

Size chart & How to sew the “Bai”

How to sew the Zhishen’s Bai

Take the left Bai as an example, Zhishen’s Bai can be divided into three pieces: front, middle, and back.

Fold the middle piece along the center axis, sew the front and middle pieces together in the direction of the arrow on the drawing, and sew the sides together with the numbered sides.

The top view shows the folding direction of the Bai and the stitching of the edges, with the curved dotted line connecting the small edges of the Bai.

As shown below, the sides of the clothes are slit, the back edge of the back Bai (f) is sewn to the back piece of the clothes (f), and the front edge of the front Bai (e) is sewn to the front edge of the clothes (e), according to the arrow and the direction of the same letter, the edges of the same letter should be sewn together.

How to sew the Daopao’s Bai

Take the left Bai as an example, Daopao’s Bai can be divided into a large Bai back piece and four triangular pieces of small Bai piece.

• The large Bai back piece: showing a trapezoidal shape, the lower edge is the arc of alignment with the clothes hem.
• Four small triangular Bai pieces.
  • 1 is formed by the partial mirror image of the large Bai back piece.
  • 2 is a mirror image of 1, equal size.
  • 3 is exactly the same as 1.
  • 4 is a mirror image of 3, equal size.

The same letters (abcde) are sewn together to form the overall Bai, and after folding the Bai, the small triangular parts of each Bai piece are exactly the same.

Sew the Bai in as shown by the arrows and the same letters.

Note: The top edge f of the Bai is fixed to the dotted line shown by f on the body of the garment, not to the edge of a particular piece of fabric.

Zhiduo (直裰) and Zhishen (直身)

1.1 165/88A Zhiduo

165/88A Appearance Drawings

165/88A Perspective Drawings

165/88A Expansion Drawings

165/88A Detail Size Drawing

1.2 165/88A Zhishen

2.1 170/92A Zhiduo

170/92A Appearance Drawings

170/92A Perspective Drawings

170/92A Expansion Drawings

170/92A Detail Size Drawings

2.2 170/92A Zhishen

3.1 175/96A Zhiduo

175/96A Appearance Drawings

175/96A Perspective Drawings

175/96A Expansion Drawings

175/96A Detail Size Drawings

3.2 175/96A Zhishen

4.1 180/100A Zhiduo

180/100A Appearance Drawings

180/100A Perspective Drawings

180/100A Expansion Drawings

180/100A Detail Size Drawings

4.2 180/100A Zhishen

5.1 185/104A

185/104A Appearance Drawings

185/104A Perspective Drawings

185/104A Expansion Drawings

185/104A Detail Size Drawings

5.2 185/104A Zhishen

Daopao (道袍)

1. 165/88A

165/88A Appearance Drawings

165/88A Perspective Drawings

165/88A Expansion Drawings

165/88A Detail Size Drawings

2. 170/92A

170/92A Appearance Drawings

170/92A Perspective Drawings

170/92A Expansion Drawings

170/92A Detail Size Drawings

3. 175/96A

175/96A Appearance Drawings

175/96A Perspective Drawings

175/96A Expansion Drawings

175/96A Detail Size Drawings

4. 180/100A

180/100A Appearance Drawings

180/100A Perspective Drawings

180/100A Expansion Drawings

180/100A Detail Size Drawings

5. 185/104A

185/104A Appearance Drawings

185/104A Perspective Drawings

185/104A Expansion Drawings

185/104A Detail Size Drawings

More Hanfu Style Making

Section 1: How to make Zhongyi (中衣)

Section 2: How to make Aoqun (袄裙)

Section 3: How to make Ruqun (襦裙)

Section 4: How to make Beizi (褙子)

Section 5: How to make Pan collar Aoqun (盘领袄)

Section 6: How to make Quju (曲裾)

Section 7: How to make Banbi (半臂)

Section 8: How to make Shuhe (裋褐)

Section 10: How to make Panling Pao and Lanshan (盘领袍/襕衫)

Section 11: How to make Shenyi (深衣)

Section 12: How to make Yisan (曳撒)

Section 13: How to make improved Hanfu (改良汉服)