This section contains Shenyi (深衣).
Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A.
Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.
Shenyi is a long, straight Changshan with a separate upper Yi (衣) and lower Chang (裳), and joined together to cover the body.
There are many different ways to cutting and sewing a Shenyi, but this section is only one of the simpler ones. To make a Shenyi, 12 pieces of equal-sized trapezoidal fabric are prepared and sewn together as a lower Chang, then the upper Yi garment and lower Chang are sewn together. It is also necessary to use another color of fabric as the edge, which eventually the completed Shenyi.
The fabric of Shenyi is mostly white cloth, and the edge needs to be made of darker color fabric. In ancient times, if both parents and grandparents are alive, the edge is made of patterned fabric; if the parents are alive, the edge are made of cyan fabric; if orphans, edges are made of plain fabric.
Shenyi gives people a graceful and elegant feeling. The basic features are cross collar, wide sleeve roots, slightly closed cuffs, and a Dadai (大带) as a waistband, combined with the Fujin (副巾), can be used as the common casual clothes of ancient lords and officials, as well as the formal dresses of common people.
The edge of the cuff is not mentioned in this article. Readers can refer to other locations to add the edge for cuff.
More Hanfu Style Making
Section 1: How to make Zhongyi (中衣)
Section 2: How to make Aoqun (袄裙)
Section 3: How to make Ruqun (襦裙)
Section 4: How to make Beizi (褙子)
Section 5: How to make Pan collar Aoqun (盘领袄)
Section 6: How to make Quju (曲裾)
Section 7: How to make Banbi (半臂)
Section 8: How to make Shuhe (裋褐)
Section 9: How to make Zhiduo Zhishen Daopao (直裰/直身/道袍)
Section 10: How to make Panling Pao and Lanshan (盘领袍/襕衫)
Section 11: How to make Shenyi (深衣)
Section 12: How to make Yisan (曳撒)
Section 13: How to make improved Hanfu (改良汉服)
Dear Ling, Thank you very much for your patterns! I am currently in the process of planning how I would go about making a shenyi. However, I am having difficulty visualising how I would attach the chang to the yi and would greatly appreciate your help. So referring to the 165 size, do you think it would be better if I A) sew the sleeve into shape, leaving a 436mm (133+170+133) gap so the chang can then be sewn into the hole or B) sew the chang into place before sewing the sleeve into shape? Or is there a better method which I am missing? Thank you for your time.
Thank you for reading. In fact, I have not made a Shenyi, so please understand that I may not be able to answer your questions perfectly. I read your comment in detail, but I didn't fully understand it (possible that I misunderstood your expression). Shenyi's sleeves and chang section don't seem to have overlapping parts, and I think both options you mentioned are feasible because in practice they are less likely to affect each other.
If possible, please draw in the picture where you feel confused.
Unsure why there is a 46mm measurement for the arm sleeves for 170/92a detail size drawing. Any help or ideas?
Its meant to be sown shut with the upper collar body part as well yes? Is that 46mm for the lower skirt garment join?
46mm in 170/92a detail size drawing? Can you point out which number? Maybe I can help you. Like this.
These two measurements, is it meant to be a gap or kind of sleeve hole? Unsure about the reason or kind of sow too here
Hah stuck on the upper lower garment sow join... rip
Hey, had you figured out how to do this? Thanks
I think it is to confirm the position of the sleeve arc, which can be considered as an auxiliary point.