Hanfu Making(2) – Aoqun Cutting & Sewing Patterns

This section contains Aoqun (袄裙), which can be divided into: Duan Ao (短袄), Da Ao (大袄), Mamian Qun (马面裙).

Size range: Duan Ao and Da Ao (155/80A to 175/96A),  Mamian Qun (155/80A to 175/80A).

Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.

Introduction

In the Ming Dynasty, women’s Hanfu clothing is very popular in the form of clothes cover skirt way of dress, the most common “Aoqun (袄裙)” is a Ming Dynasty women’s clothing general term, that is, the upper Ao (袄, jacket) with the lower Qun (裙, skirt) with the way, and not a single piece of clothing. The “Ao” in this section refers to a cross-necked female top, and the “Qun” refers to a Mamian Qun (horse-face skirt).

Early Hanfu tops were mostly called “Ru (襦)”, and after the Wei and Jin Dynasties, they were also called “Ao” and “Shan (衫, shirt)”. Nowadays, it is generally considered that the Aoqun is longer and covers the waist of the skirt, while the one that requires the clothes to be tucked into the waist of the skirt is the Ruqun (襦裙), but both belong to the Ruqun system.

The Ming-style Aoqun are unique and belong to the mid-waist Ruqun system, which is typical of Shangyi Xiachang (上衣下裳); the outer garment is mostly a pipa sleeve with a narrower sleeve edge (2-3 cm), and the collar is usually white with a collar guard; the lower garment can be a Mamian Qun or a normal pleated skirt.

If the top of the Ao is lengthened to cover the knees, it can be called a “Da Ao”. For ease of movement and aesthetics, the top of the Ao is slit on both sides, generally to the crotch and ease of movement.

Mamian Qun is actually made up of two separate skirt pieces that are joined together by a skirt waist, but the two pieces are only partially overlapped and not sewn together directly.

The skirt is not pleated on the left or right side, but is pleated in the middle, with the root of the pleats sewn into the waist of the skirt, and ties are sewn on both ends of the waist, the unpleated parts are overlapped and the pleated parts are naturally spread out, and the number and size of the pleats are based on the actual waist circumference. As the picture shows:

Size chart

Duan Ao (短袄)

1. 155/80A

155/80A Duan Ao Appearance Drawings

155/64A Duan Ao Perspective Drawings

155/64A Duan Ao Expansion Drawings

155/64A Duan Ao Detail Size Drawings

2. 160/84A

160/84A Duan Ao Appearance Drawings

160/84A Duan Ao Perspective Drawings

160/84A Duan Ao Expansion Drawings

160/84A Duan Ao Detail Size Drawings

3. 165/88A

165/88A Duan Ao Appearance Drawings

165/88A Duan Ao Perspective Drawings

165/88A Duan Ao Expansion Drawings

165/88A Duan Ao Detail Size Drawings

4. 170/92A

170/92A Duan Ao Appearance Drawings

170/92A Duan Ao Perspective Drawings

170/92A Duan Ao Expansion Drawings

170/92A Duan Ao Detail Size Drawings

5. 175/96A

175/96A Duan Ao Appearance Drawings

175/96A Duan Ao Perspective Drawings

175/96A Duan Ao Expansion Drawings

175/96A Duan Ao Detail Size Drawings

Da Ao (大袄)

1. 155/80A

155/80A Da Ao Appearance Drawings

155/80A Da Ao Perspective Drawings

155/80A Da Ao Expansion Drawings

155/80A Da Ao Detail Size Drawings

2. 160/84A

160/84A Da Ao Appearance Drawings

160/84A Da Ao Perspective Drawings

160/84A Da Ao Expansion Drawings

160/84A Da Ao Detail Size Drawings

3. 165/88A

165/88A Da Ao Appearance Drawings

165/88A Da Ao Perspective Drawings

165/88A Da Ao Expansion Drawings

165/88A Da Ao Detail Size Drawings

4. 170/92A

170/92A Da Ao Appearance Drawings

170/92A Da Ao Perspective Drawings

170/92A Da Ao Expansion Drawings

170/92A Da Ao Detail Size Drawings

5. 175/96A

175/96A Da Ao Appearance Drawings

175/96A Da Ao Perspective Drawings

175/96A Da Ao Expansion Drawings

175/96A Da Ao Detail Size Drawings

Mamian Qun (马面裙)

1. 155/64A

1: First prepare two pieces of fabric as shown in the picture.

2: Sew together, the edges of the fabric should be hemmed (except for the top).

3: Fold and pleat according to the size shown in the picture.

4: Enlarged diagram of the folding method.

5: After folding as shown.

6: In the same way (repeat steps 1-5), make another skirt piece like the one shown above. Overlap the two pieces, and prepare the skirt waist, ties.

7: After folding the skirt waist, sew the top of the two skirt pieces into the skirt waist and close it in 2 cm.

Completed.

2. 160/68A

3. 165/72A

4. 170/76A

5. 175/80A

More Hanfu Style Making

Section 1: How to make Zhongyi (中衣)

Section 3: How to make Ruqun (襦裙)

Section 4: How to make Beizi (褙子)

Section 5: How to make Pan collar Aoqun (盘领袄)

Section 6: How to make Quju (曲裾)

Section 7: How to make Banbi (半臂)

Section 8: How to make Shuhe (裋褐)

Section 9: How to make Zhiduo Zhishen Daopao (直裰/直身/道袍)

Section 10: How to make Panling Pao and Lanshan (盘领袍/襕衫)

Section 11: How to make Shenyi (深衣)

Section 12: How to make Yisan (曳撒)

Section 13: How to make improved Hanfu (改良汉服)