Hanfu (汉服, traditional Chinese clothing) isn’t just a nostalgic trend—it’s a global movement. What began as a niche subculture in China has evolved into a thriving industry, with brands blending historical accuracy with modern wearability. Forget stiff costumes; today’s Hanfu ranges from silk-adorned ceremonial robes to minimalist office-friendly pieces. Here’s a breakdown of the brands driving this revival, their signature styles, and why they resonate with Gen Z shoppers from Los Angeles to Jakarta. 1. Minghuatang (明华堂) Founded in 2007, this Guangzhou-based label has become synonymous with meticulous craftsmanship and eye-watering price tags—think ¥10,000 ($1,400) for a single set, with wait times stretching up to a year. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guu1ad17AH8 The Founder’s Obsession Hong Kong-born Zhong Yi (钟毅), a fashion design graduate from Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts, noticed something odd in the early 2000s: At formal events, Koreans wore hanbok, Japanese wore kimono, but Chinese attendees rarely wore Hanfu. He started designing his own pieces, wearing them daily to normalize the tradition. In 2007, he co-founded Minghuatang with a clear mission: to recreate historically accurate Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) attire with museum-level precision. What Justifies the Price? Minghuatang’s garments aren’t just costumes—they’re wearable history. Every stitch follows 15th-century texts and artifacts, from…

Bai Lu's (白鹿) rise in costume dramas isn't just about beauty—it's a masterclass in versatility. From the tender restraint of a noblewoman to the fiery swagger of a rebel queen, she molds each role into something unforgettable. Take The Journey of Chong Zi: her character Cui Shiyi, a reserved heiress bound by tradition, contrasts sharply with The Legends of Lu Zhaoyao, a leather-clad warlord who smirks while swinging a sword. Even within a single series, like Song of Youth, she shifts seamlessly from Ming-dynasty elegance in embroidered silk to comedic chaos in slapstick disguises. Her secret? She leans into extremes. In The Legends, a crimson robe and unapologetic red eyeliner scream "villainess," while in Court Lady, a single red-dress dance scene—all swirling sleeves and defiant glances—cements her as the queen of physical storytelling. No two roles blur; each is a bold, deliberate stroke on a growing canvas of reinvention. This article highlights her top works, blending rich storytelling, cultural depth, and performances that transcend language barriers. One and Only 周生如故 Aired: 2021 Period Background: Set in a fictional dynasty mirroring the Northern and Southern Dynasties (420–589 CE), a turbulent era marked by fractured kingdoms, military coups, and rigid Confucian social…

The horse-face skirt (mamianqun) is more than a garment—it’s a feat of engineering that has captivated scholars and designers for centuries. Its enduring appeal lies in a harmonious blend of form and function, anchored by two defining elements: the ingenious four-panel system and an evolving language of pleats. This article explores how these structural innovations shaped the skirt’s identity across dynasties, transforming practicality into artistry. The Four-Panel System At the heart of the horse-face skirt lies its signature four-panel design (si qunmen), a revolutionary concept perfected during the Ming Dynasty. The structure consists of two wider outer panels positioned at the front and back, complemented by narrower inner panels along the sides. When fastened, the outer layers elegantly overlap the inner ones, revealing only two decorative “horse face” sections inspired by the defensive bastions of ancient city walls. This modular system served both aesthetic and practical purposes. The overlapping panels ensured modesty during movement—a critical consideration in Confucian-influenced societies—while allowing wearers to adjust the skirt’s volume for different occasions. Historical records from Jiangnan workshops reveal that affluent Ming households often commissioned interchangeable outer panels, enabling a single skirt to transition seamlessly from daily chores to ceremonial events through strategic fabric substitutions. The Evolution of…

The horse-face skirt (mamianqun), with its distinctive overlapping panels and intricate pleats, stands as a timeless symbol of Chinese fashion ingenuity. For nearly a millennium, this garment evolved alongside dynastic shifts, social norms, and artistic innovations. Today, it’s experiencing a global renaissance, embraced by Hanfu enthusiasts and haute couture designers alike. In this article, we unravel its remarkable journey from the Song Dynasty’s utilitarian xuanqun to the Qing Dynasty’s lavish pleated masterpieces. 1. Song Dynasty Origins: The Birth of the Xuanqun (10th–13th Century) The horse-face skirt’s story begins in the Song Dynasty (960–1279), an era marked by economic prosperity and technological advancements in textile production. Practical Design for Active Lifestyles The early prototype, called xuanqun (旋裙, “rotating skirt”), featured a two-panel split design that allowed freedom of movement. Unlike later elaborate versions, it prioritized functionality: Worn by working-class women for tasks like horseback riding and farming. Lightweight fabrics like silk gauze ensured breathability. Minimal pleating focused on ease of movement rather than decoration. Archaeological Evidence A pivotal discovery came from Huang Sheng’s Tomb (Fuzhou, 1243 CE), where a well-preserved xuanqun was unearthed: Made of sheer silk with simple knife pleats. Waistband secured with fabric ties, lacking the overlapping panels of later designs. 2. Ming Dynasty Standardization (14th–17th Century) The Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) transformed the xuanqun into…

Hanfu, the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, has experienced a remarkable resurgence. What was once a niche interest among history enthusiasts and cultural purists has now blossomed into a full-blown fashion movement. By 2024, the Hanfu market is not just thriving—it’s evolving, adapting, and influencing modern fashion in ways that few could have predicted a decade ago. The Hanfu Phenomenon The Hanfu revival isn’t just about clothing; it’s a cultural statement. Rooted in over 3,000 years of history, Hanfu represents more than just aesthetics—it’s a symbol of identity and heritage. In 2024, this traditional attire has found its way into the wardrobes of a diverse audience, from young students to working professionals, and even international fashion enthusiasts. The driving force behind this resurgence? A combination of government support, cultural pride, and the rise of China-chic (国潮). Policies promoting traditional culture, such as the "14th Five-Year Plan for the Development of Chinese Traditional Culture," have played a significant role in boosting public interest. Events like China Huafu Day (中国华服日) and Huazhao Festival (花朝节) have further cemented Hanfu’s place in contemporary culture, turning it into a symbol of national pride. The Market Boom: Numbers Don’t Lie The numbers speak for themselves.…

If you spotted a character in a historical drama twirling in a pink, pleated dress and thought, Wow, that looks surprisingly modern, you're not alone. The outfit in question, featured in The Glory (雁回时), closely resembles a contemporary flared dress, but it actually belongs to a category of Ming Dynasty garments known as tieli (贴里). This style, along with the similar yesa (曳撒), reflects a fascinating blend of influences, practicality, and visual appeal—so much so that modern designers could easily take inspiration from it. Tieli vs. Yesa: Not Just for Women At first glance, tieli and yesa might look like elegant, structured dresses, but in the Ming Dynasty, they were primarily worn by men. Both originated under the influence of Yuan-Mongol styles but were later adapted into Han Chinese fashion. The key difference? Yesa features a smooth front panel known as a Mamian (马面), while tieli is characterized by full pleats from top to bottom. These structured garments were designed for mobility, making them popular choices for officials, scholars, and even military figures. While women occasionally wore these garments, it was often as part of cross-dressing trends in dramas or plays, where they took on male roles. Today, it’s not…

Carmen Lee (李若彤), the actress best known for her iconic role as the "Dragon Girl" in Return Of The Condor Heroes (神雕侠侣), has once again captured the public’s attention—this time, not for her acting, but for her breathtaking appearance in Hanfu, traditional Chinese clothing. At 58, Lee’s grace and poise have left fans in awe, proving that true beauty transcends age. Whether in modern attire or ancient garments, she exudes a blend of elegance and strength that continues to inspire. A Perfect Match for Song Dynasty Style Lee’s recent Hanfu looks draw inspiration from the Song Dynasty, a period renowned for its understated yet sophisticated fashion. Her outfits typically feature a cross-collar blouse paired with pleated skirts, a classic combination that reflects the refined taste of noblewomen from that era. The addition of a pibo (披帛, a long silk scarf) adds a touch of fluidity and grace, enhancing the overall aesthetic. Her makeup, reminiscent of the Tang and Song dynasties’ Feixia style (飞霞妆), involves a light layer of rouge topped with white powder, creating a delicate, rosy glow. This technique, also seen in Liu Yifei’s (刘亦菲) portrayal in A Dream of Splendor (梦华录), complements warm skin tones beautifully, making it…

Why should hanfu makers turn to thrift stores? For the deals, of course!

On June 25th, a unique cultural exchange took place as over 40 Chinese and American high school students from the Ricci Young Scholars Program (光启青年学者项目) embarked on an immersive journey through the historic city of Nanjing. This initiative aims to foster deep cultural understanding between youths from both nations, with participants this year focusing on the classical gardens of China. The day began at the renowned Southeast University, a prestigious institution with a rich architectural heritage. Professors Wang Xiaoqian and Gu Kai delivered insightful lectures titled "I.M. Pei and His Suzhou Museum" and "Understanding Chinese Classical Gardens: Beginning with Dianchuny (殿春簃) ," respectively. Through these lectures, the students gained a unique perspective on Chinese architecture and its intricate relationship with nature and history. The morning session concluded with a serene walk through the rain-kissed campus, allowing the students to absorb the historic and contemporary essence of the university. Exploring Nanjing's Majestic City Walls In the afternoon, the group visited the Nanjing City Wall Museum. Here, they engaged with the history and cultural significance of the ancient city walls through a variety of exhibits, including artifacts, digital sand tables, and interactive displays. The highlight of the tour was ascending the iconic…

Hi everyone, welcome to newhanfu.com, the Newhanfu Community. “To help more people to learn Hanfu costume, Chinese traditional culture and feel the charm of China!” – this is our philosophy, which we have been insisting on many years. And we are so glad that we are still here with all of you. In order to give back to all our readers for their long-term support, we have prepared a variety of fascinating hanfu costume gifts for those who love and give publicity to Hanfu. Starting from 2021, we have officially launched the Hanfu Free Giveaways. We are looking forward to your participation and get your first set of hanfu costume. By 2024, we've given away more than 1,300+ free hanfu for our members (they come from all over the world, and including many social medias, like Facebook, Instagram, Reddit, Tiktok, etc. Thank you all for the love and always support)   Hanfu Free Giveaways Points for Discount  Start earning points and unlock exciting discounts on our exquisite hanfu collection. Every 100 points earned equals $1 in discounts on future purchases. For example, if you have accumulated 500 points, you can enjoy a $5 discount on your next order in Newhanfu Store.  …

Mamian skirt, Qixiong dress, and the hundred-pleat skirt; wearing traditional Hanfu has become a new trend in public attire in recent years, whether it be for sightseeing, wedding ceremonies, shopping, friend gatherings, and various other occasions. The "Hanfu craze" continues to rise, blending tradition with modernity, activating cultural resources, igniting the consumer market, and driving industrial development. In recent years, Hanfu has gradually gained popularity among the younger generation, with their youthful expression and fashionable presentation bringing Chinese traditional culture into daily life in a tangible and palpable form. The long-standing Chinese traditional clothing culture embodies a blend of Chinese aesthetic interests, reflecting not only a consumer choice but also the Chinese people's love for outstanding traditional culture.   Demand exceeds supply During the Spring Festival and Lantern Festival of the Year of the Dragon, the activity of "wearing Chinese costumes for free to visit the Confucian Temples" in Qufu City, Jining, Shandong, has been well received. Wang Chunling, a visitor from Liaoning, traveled a long distance with friends to play here, attracted by the lively atmosphere of night tours in the ancient city of Qufu and folk performances, and dressed in Hanfu to join the parade. This year, garments…

Have you ever wondered about the animal motifs on your hanfu and what they stand for? Why are there so many dragons in traditional Chinese art? And what’s up with the monkey statues everywhere? Let's delve into the symbolism of animal motifs. It will only take about 5 minutes of your time, and hopefully, you'll learn something new or revise what you already know! Each hanfu garment is unique. It has various styles and designs, that reflects different historical periods and regional influences. Although the differences are significant, many of them include similar animal embroidery and motifs. Animals that have been deeply intertwined with Chinese culture from its earliest days. Animals in Chinese culture are thought to be symbolic representations of various aspects of life. Understanding the symbolic meaning of an animal will lead to grasping the hidden message of the art. It is not only an important decorative element but also adds meaning, symbolism, and cultural significance to the art, particularly in the context of Hanfu garments.   Most commonly used animal motifs are: Birds: Birds are often associated with the sun and allegorical folk-tales. Each bird carries its own unique symbolism, though most are connected to happiness and…

The program "Nian Jin" at the 2024 CCTV Spring Festival Gala showcased the beauty of traditional Hanfu from various dynasties to billions of viewers. Among them, the exquisite patterns connected the vision of a prosperous new year and allowed more people to understand the essence of traditional Hanfu, which is supported by classical patterns and traditional fabrics. From the grandeur of the Warring States period to the elegance of the Ming Dynasty, this stage performance passed down the beauty of China's thousands of years. Liu Tao, Liu Shishi, Li Qin, and Guan Xiaotong led the singing of "Nian Jin", and they represented the splendor of the Han, Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties, HANTIME will share the highlights in detail with us. Liu Tao's outfit consists of a Zhiju robe and a Gui Yi, with yellow as the main color, representing a solemn and grand emotional meaning. The pattern combines the patterns of the Chinese flowering crabapple and clouds, with a cape made of swallowtail gauze. The hem of the robe is made of Changle Mingguang brocade, a Han dynasty brocade discovered in Loulan, Xinjiang. The pattern mainly features animal motifs, with the words "Changle Mingguang" symbolizing auspiciousness, intricately woven with…

An increasing number of young people are beginning to experiment with wearing hanfu, these clothing styles, which were widely used in different historical dynasties in ancient China, are now being reintegrated into contemporary life and have become an important part of youth culture.   The Origin of Hanfu Culture: From Niche to Popular Typically, the origin of the modern Hanfu culture is traced back to 2003. On November 22nd of that year, a power worker named Wang Letian from Zhengzhou, Henan, walked into a downtown commercial street wearing hanfu. This event was reported by Singapore's Lianhe Zaobao, making Wang Letian the first modern Chinese person wearing hanfu to appear in public. Wang Letian was introduced to hanfu culture through forums Han Wang, and around 2003, the first hanfu enthusiasts gathered around Han Wang and other online hanfu forums, gradually forming the Hanfu circle. At the same time, some offline Hanfu culture communities began to be established. Around 2011, the subculture of adolescent internet culture rapidly developed. With the successive rise of the Lolita and the JK uniform fashion subculture, as well as the development of the cosplay community, hanfu has found its place among various clothing subcultures and has gained…

The ancient simplicity of Qin, the elegance of Han, the splendor of Tang, the gracefulness of Song, and the dignity of Ming, every pattern and design of Han clothing is engraved with the mark of China's history. With the help of professional research, this article will share some basic knowledge of Hanfu clothing, inviting everyone to appreciate the stunning attire of Chinese ancestors.   01 Hanfu Clothing: A Comprehensive Dressing System Hanfu clothing has undergone thousands of years of evolution. It originated as an important manifestation of social ranking, etiquette, and lifestyle, while also reflecting the characteristics of different times through displaying the state of textile technology, aesthetic consciousness, and daily customs. After thousands of years of cultural accumulation, Hanfu clothing has become an important cultural symbol. It is not entirely accurate to call Hanfu the traditional attire of the Han people. Based on today's concept, Hanfu clothing should be considered the traditional attire of the Chinese nation as a whole. The Han ethnicity is inclusive, throughout the changing dynasties, Han clothing continuously absorbed foreign styles and underwent multiple periods of integration among various ethnic groups to develop rich styles and unique aesthetics. Therefore, Hanfu clothing is not merely the…

Hey everyone! College applications have been kicking my ass for the past few months so I've been pretty silent for a while, but I'm finally done—which means more hanfu content for you all to see! For those of you who don’t know me, I’m redsugar, or Tangtang (or a bajillion other variants of red and sugar in multiple languages that people have given to me as nicknames)! I’m a gender fluid Taiwanese-American hanfu designer based in the US. I’ve been part of the Newhanfu community for a couple years now and written extensively about my historical research and designs. Today I’m going to give you all a little summary of the designs modeled in our January 2023 model call outing! This includes five out of my eight 2023 Lunar New Year collection, photographed at the Chinese Cultural Garden in San Jose. Special thanks to all the participants for modeling these samples, and hope you guys all had plenty of fun! Let’s get to it then~ 機杼/JIZHU (modeled by 采蘑菇的小姑娘背着一只大狂猪) First up is Jizhu! This is a late Ming Dynasty four-piece set consisting of a 百迭裙/百迭裙/bai3 die2 qun2/hundred-layered skirt, a 立領衫/立领衫/li4 ling3 shan1/standing collar top, a waist tie, and a 比甲/比甲/bi3…

Summary Modern Hanfu, also known as New style Hanfu, originates from the traditional classical dress style of the Han ethnic group and retains its typical formal characteristics, but innovates by combining it with the diverse wearing situations and fashion aesthetics of the current public. The core features of modern hanfu are: innovation, openness, and contextual diversity. While retaining the basic forms and aesthetics of ancient hanfu, modern hanfu has gained more and more popular among consumers in recent years by innovating its design to fit modern people's dressing habits and aesthetics, making it an everyday look. With the return of traditional Chinese culture to the mainstream, there are more and more hanfu with new styles. From both the cultural and productive point of view, the future of the new style hanfu industry is very promising.   The basic situation of the modern Hanfu industry Modernization and daily use will drive the industry further The market size of the modern hanfu industry in 2021 is 1.4 billion dollars, up 6.4% year-on-year, slowing down relative to the past five years. This is partly because of the decline in the ability and willingness of consumers to purchase due to factors such as the…

Hey everyone, long time no see! It's been a while and I promise I'm still working on the Song Dynasty sections of Hanfu Unearthed—in the meantime, enjoy this not-so-short cheat sheet to all of the most commonly used fibers and weaves in hanfu, whether historically or in the industry today. Fibers Fibers are the material from which threads are spun to be made into fabric. These include synthetic fibers made in labs or factories by humans, as well as animal fibers that are grown as fur or silk by animals, or plant-based fibers that we harvest from various fibrous plants. Tencel Rising in popularity, especially last summer, tencel is a kind of semi-synthetic fiber made from cellulose, also called lyocell, originally made to imitate silk. Made by dissolving cellulose into pulp and using dry jet-et spinning to reconstitute the fibers, it’s a clean process that creates a kind of synthetic fiber using natural materials: easier to dye than cotton, more breathable than polyester, moisture-wicking, and softer than linen. The one downside of tencel is that it’s easily wrinkled, but its smooth draping quality and breathability make it a first choice for hanfu manufacturers today. Other rayons are also used, but…

In the first year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty. In order to eliminate the influence of the clothing left by the Yuan Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang issued an edict to the whole country, requiring the removal of Hu clothing. However, it was not the emperor who could determine the style of clothing, but the general public. Zhu Yuanzhang's edict on the restoration of the clothes and the crowns did not completely return people's dress to the Tang Dynasty tradition. Even many elements of Mongolian clothing of the Yuan Dynasty were retained because they were convenient to wear on a daily basis, resulting in the formation of Ming clothing of various shapes and features.   Ming Style Hanfu vs. Song Style Hanfu For the general Hanfu lover, the difference between Ming Hanfu and Song Hanfu is probably the hardest to tell. Although it is often possible to make some guesses by feeling after wearing it, it is not really easy to pick out a single piece to see. Although there was no mention in Zhu Yuanzhang's edict of restoring clothing to the style of the Song Dynasty, but the Tang Dynasty was a distant time for the people of the Ming Dynasty.…

Entering autumn, in addition to adapting to the weather, we also should change the style of clothes we wear. Temperatures in autumn are around 60% cold and 40% hot, because the sun doesn't last long and the weather tends to seem dark. It often rains but not heavily, when in early autumn there is a lot of fog that appears in the morning. So, warm clothes are more suitable to wear during this season. Now, the spread of hanfu is getting more and more widespread, and everyone can definitely see many people wearing hanfu in everyday life. Be it male or female, young or old, there are many people who wear Hanfu. So, what kind of hanfu should you wear in autumn? It's early fall, and the weather is a little cooler than summer, but not too cold. Therefore, hanfu worn in summer can still be worn today. For example, qixiong ruqun. In addition, Song dynasty hanfu, such as xuanqun, beizi, baidiequn, and others are also very suitable to be worn in autumn. When autumn is a little deeper, everyone can wear thicker hanfu. For example, the Ming dynasty hanfu which is very suitable to be worn in autumn. Of…