The Mamianqun, or horse-face skirt, has surged from historical relic to modern wardrobe staple, bridging centuries of Chinese craftsmanship with contemporary fashion. Yet as demand grows, so does the market’s mix of authentic artistry and mass-produced imitations. This guide illuminates how to discern quality craftsmanship, from fabric authenticity to structural integrity, ensuring your purchase honors this garment’s rich legacy. Material Mastery: Decoding Silk and Synthetics At the heart of every genuine horse-face skirt lies its fabric. Traditional Mamianqun relied on natural fibers—Ming artisans favored sangzhi (mulberry silk) for its luminous drape, while Qing workshops prized kesi tapestry silk for intricate embroidery. To test authenticity, rub the fabric gently: true silk generates subtle static, unlike synthetic mimics. Burn a loose thread—real silk curls into ash with a feather-like scent, while polyester melts into hard beads. Modern blends (e.g., 70% silk + 30% cotton) offer a middle ground, balancing historical reverence with daily durability. Beware of vendors advertising “100% silk” at suspiciously low prices (under ¥500). Many substitute synthetic blends, identifiable by their plasticky sheen and poor breathability. Hangzhou-based Silk Reverie uses plant-dyed organic silk, reviving Ming dye techniques with nettle greens and pomegranate rinds—a choice that marries tradition with eco-consciousness. The Four-Panel Litmus Test A true Mamianqun’s…

Once confined to historical reenactments and museum displays, the horse-face skirt has galloped into global streetwear. Today’s Mamianqun renaissance blends reverence for tradition with bold reinvention, transforming this Ming-era icon into a symbol of cultural fluidity. From Tokyo’s Harajuku district to New York Fashion Week, the skirt’s four-panel silhouette is rewriting the rules of cross-cultural style. The Mamianqun’s journey to modernity began with subtle adaptations. Designers first softened its structure for daily wear: Lighter Fabrics: Replacing heavy brocades with linen blends for summer-friendly versions. Adjustable Waistbands: Incorporating hidden elastic or drawstrings to accommodate diverse body types. Modular Design: Detachable outer panels allow wearers to switch between minimalist and ornate looks. Shanghai-based label Ming 2.0 sparked a trend with their “Commuter Mamianqun,” featuring water-repellent silk and pockets discreetly hidden in pleats. Its viral TikTok campaign (#MamianqunInMotion) showcased cyclists weaving through Beijing’s hutongs, skirts fluttering like ink paintings come to life. The horse-face skirt’s architectural lines have inspired unexpected crossovers: Punk Rebellion: Tokyo designer Yuri Takahashi pairs black leather Mamianqun with metallic chain belts, slashing outer panels to reveal neon underskirts. Bohemian Rhapsody: Los Angeles brand East Meets Dress layers lace-trimmed horse-face skirts over denim, accessorized with Navajo turquoise jewelry. Techwear Integration: Seoul’s Hanbok Futurism collective embeds LED…

Every stitch on a horse-face skirt whispers secrets. For centuries, Mamianqun artisans encoded cultural values, social status, and cosmic beliefs into embroidered motifs, transforming fabric into a visual lexicon. These symbols—ranging from imperial dragons to humble butterflies—reveal how clothing became a canvas for China’s collective imagination. Imperial Dragons and Cosmic Order The dragon motif, reserved for royalty and high-ranking officials, evolved dramatically between dynasties. Ming-era Mamianqun featured five-clawed dragons (long) encircling skirt panels, their bodies coiled in perfect Fibonacci spirals to represent celestial harmony. A 1589 imperial consort’s skirt in the Forbidden City archives shows dragons chasing pearls amid cloud bands, symbolizing the emperor’s mandate from heaven. Qing artisans reimagined this motif under Manchu rule. Horse-face skirts for nobility incorporated mang dragons—four-clawed hybrids blending dragon and serpent features—to subtly assert Manchu identity. The 1783 “Dragon-Tide” skirt commissioned by Empress Dowager Chongqing pairs mang dragons with crashing waves, a nod to Qing naval ambitions. Floral Codes – From Peonies to Lotus Flowers served as social shorthand. Ming commoners favored peonies embroidered in indigo thread, their layered petals symbolizing wealth accumulation. Nobility preferred lotus motifs in silver-gilt thread, each flower’s eight petals mirroring the Bagua trigrams. A surviving Qing-era horse-face skirt from Suzhou tells a marital story through flora: pomegranates…

Horse-face skirts, also known as "Mamian Skirts," are a timeless and iconic part of traditional Chinese clothing. Originating from the Song Dynasty and popularized during the Ming Dynasty, these skirts have evolved from simple functional garments to sophisticated fashion statements that blend cultural heritage with modern style. Whether you're a seasoned Hanfu enthusiast or just starting your journey into the world of traditional Chinese attire, this guide will help you navigate the intricacies of choosing the perfect horse-face skirt. Understanding the Structure and Design A horse-face skirt consists of two main pieces that overlap at the front, creating four skirt doors (two on each side). The outer skirt doors are often decorated, while the inner ones may have minimal or no embellishments. The sides of the skirt are pleated, and the waistband is typically made of white fabric, symbolizing longevity and marital bliss. This design not only adds aesthetic appeal but also provides practicality, allowing for ease of movement. Key Features to Consider Skirt Length Shoe-On Style: Ideal length is leg length + 7 cm, ensuring a balanced look without compromising mobility. Long Style: Opt for leg length + 9-10 cm for a more flowing silhouette that complements various occasions.…

Nowadays, the Mamian skirt is increasingly integrated into our sight and life. Under such a trend, many people are eager to own their desired Mamian skirt. Let's follow Hanfu Shidai and take a look at the details to consider during the process of selecting and styling a Mamian skirt. 1 - Selection Stage Step 1: Size Firstly, choosing the right size that fits the body curves is crucial for the perfect outfit. Like a suit, a Mamian skirt can be chosen according to a size chart or customized. Whether you are selecting from a size chart or opting for customization, the main standards to measure are height, waist, and hips. These measurements will influence the choice of skirt length, waist length, and sweep circumference. If we choose to shop online, sellers often provide a size chart for customers to make their selection. By comparing the chart, you can choose according to your size information. If opting for customization, you can first provide the seller with your waist, hip, and height information for reference. Then, based on your needs, negotiate with the tailor to decide the width of the skirt door, the length of the skirt waist, and the skirt length. Generally,…

The Mamian skirt pattern, as a traditional cultural element, is leading a new trend in the fashion world today. Its unique design and patterns showcase the elegance and temperament of ancient Han women, while also incorporating elements of modern fashion, making it a highly regarded focus in the fashion industry. Let us explore the structure, content, and trends of the Mamian skirt pattern in the fashion world. 01 Diversified Material Innovations In modern fashion, designers have applied the Mamian skirt pattern to various materials such as silk, cotton, chiffon, and blended fabrics. The Mamian skirt exhibits diverse styles and characteristics through material innovation, combining vintage flavor with a contemporary sense of fashion. This diversified material innovation injects new vitality and fashion trends into the Mamian skirt pattern.   02 Innovative Styles and Diversification Modern designers have retained the traditional Mamian skirt's basic structure and introduced many innovations. For example, the Mamian skirt can be paired with other garments such as t-shirts, shirts, or jackets to create a unique fashion style. Additionally, the Mamian skirt pattern can be incorporated into accessories such as handbags, shoes, or jewelry, adding unique highlights to the overall look.   03 Perfect Fusion of Tradition and…

Recently, the popularity of Mamian Qun (horse face skirt) shows no sign of waning. On November 23rd, at the opening night of VOGUE Forces of Fashion, Tong Yao's appearance in a Mamian Qun caught the attention of netizens. Mamian Qun are gradually integrating into our vision and lives. In light of this trend, I believe many people are eagerly longing to own a horse-face skirt, so let us follow the Hanfu Shidai explore the details to consider when selecting and styling a horse face skirt.   I. Selection Stage Step 1: Size First and foremost, a suitable size that fits and contours to the body curves is crucial for a perfect outfit. Similar to a suit, one can choose to follow the size chart or opt for made-to-measure when selecting a Mamian Qun. Whether based on the size chart or personalized tailoring, the primary measurements to consider are height, waist circumference, and hip circumference. These factors will influence the choice of skirt length, waist length, and hem circumference. If we choose to purchase online, merchants often provide a size chart for customers to make their selection. By referring to the table, one can choose accordingly based on their own size…

Among the numerous garments of Hanfu, the most popular one is probably the Mamian skirt. As a clothing item full of ethnic style, the skirt is characterized by vibrant colors and unique patterns. Wearing it seems like traveling through time and experiencing the charm of traditional culture. In fact, the Mamian skirt is not a completely new design, its history can be traced back to a hundred years ago. Also known as Mamian pleated skirt, it was one of the main skirt styles for ancient Chinese women. It consists of four skirt doors, both front and back, overlapping in pairs. The outer skirt door is adorned with decorations, while the inner skirt door has fewer or no decorations. The Ma Mian Qun is pleated on the side, and the skirt waist is often made of white fabric, symbolizing a lifelong union. It is fastened with a rope or button. The design of the Mamian skirt highlights symmetry and streamlined shapes, emphasizing the curves of women and creating an elegant and dignified image for the wearer. The charm of the Mamian skirt has actually transcended national borders. At the banquet where Princess Diana was announced as the future royal bride in…

The Mamian Qun, or the horse-face skirt, is a traditional Chinese dress that has a long history and a rich culture, and its elegant and graceful style. However, in recent years, the Mamian Qun has undergone some changes and innovations, thanks to the creative efforts of some designers who have given it a modern twist. In this article, we will introduce you to eight modern Mamian Qun that are stunning and fashionable. These dresses combine the essence of tradition with the elements of innovation, creating a new trend of Chinese dress that you don’t want to miss.   Style 1 It features a simple design with a piece of leather buckle, which not only adds to the aesthetic appeal but also helps to keep the dress in place. The fabric used in this Mamian Qun is not prone to wrinkles, making it an ideal choice for those who prefer a neat and polished look. The pleat style is stable, ensuring that it retains its shape even after multiple washes. Furthermore, this Mamian Qun particularly striking in the way it reflects light, displaying a golden sheen that catches the eye and adds a touch of luxury.   Style 2 This Mamian…

So the Mamianqun, or 馬面裙, or horse-faced skirt, has been blowing up lately especially because of the Dior controversy—here's an in-depth dive into the history, construction, and features of the famous horse-face skirt.   A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE MAMIANQUN The mamianqun or horse-faced skirt is a skirt that first originated somewhere close to the Song dynasty worn by high-class courtesans (who were like celebrities and fashion icons tbh) in the form of colorful pleated silk. It’s named this way because of its resemblance to the mamian fortress, which has stairs on either side (like the pleats) and a door in the front and back (like the skirt doors). The ‘doors’ sides of the fortress were known as the *horse faces* or mamian/馬面 because these were the faces of the fortress where the horses would pass through. It became extremely popular in the following Ming dynasty and stayed popular through the Qing dynasty through Manchurian rule—it’s been around for a long, long time! Mamianqun are more convenient for movement and offer a regal, classy aesthetic as well as a very recognizable and unique silhouette. Even Princess Diana wore one once! BASIC CONSTRUCTION OF A MAMIANQUN The Skirt Doors From the…

Bai Lu's (白鹿) rise in costume dramas isn't just about beauty—it's a masterclass in versatility. From the tender restraint of a noblewoman to the fiery swagger of a rebel queen, she molds each role into something unforgettable. Take The Journey of Chong Zi: her character Cui Shiyi, a reserved heiress bound by tradition, contrasts sharply with The Legends of Lu Zhaoyao, a leather-clad warlord who smirks while swinging a sword. Even within a single series, like Song of Youth, she shifts seamlessly from Ming-dynasty elegance in embroidered silk to comedic chaos in slapstick disguises. Her secret? She leans into extremes. In The Legends, a crimson robe and unapologetic red eyeliner scream "villainess," while in Court Lady, a single red-dress dance scene—all swirling sleeves and defiant glances—cements her as the queen of physical storytelling. No two roles blur; each is a bold, deliberate stroke on a growing canvas of reinvention. This article highlights her top works, blending rich storytelling, cultural depth, and performances that transcend language barriers. One and Only 周生如故 Aired: 2021 Period Background: Set in a fictional dynasty mirroring the Northern and Southern Dynasties (420–589 CE), a turbulent era marked by fractured kingdoms, military coups, and rigid Confucian social…

The horse-face skirt (mamianqun) is more than a garment—it’s a feat of engineering that has captivated scholars and designers for centuries. Its enduring appeal lies in a harmonious blend of form and function, anchored by two defining elements: the ingenious four-panel system and an evolving language of pleats. This article explores how these structural innovations shaped the skirt’s identity across dynasties, transforming practicality into artistry. The Four-Panel System At the heart of the horse-face skirt lies its signature four-panel design (si qunmen), a revolutionary concept perfected during the Ming Dynasty. The structure consists of two wider outer panels positioned at the front and back, complemented by narrower inner panels along the sides. When fastened, the outer layers elegantly overlap the inner ones, revealing only two decorative “horse face” sections inspired by the defensive bastions of ancient city walls. This modular system served both aesthetic and practical purposes. The overlapping panels ensured modesty during movement—a critical consideration in Confucian-influenced societies—while allowing wearers to adjust the skirt’s volume for different occasions. Historical records from Jiangnan workshops reveal that affluent Ming households often commissioned interchangeable outer panels, enabling a single skirt to transition seamlessly from daily chores to ceremonial events through strategic fabric substitutions. The Evolution of…

The horse-face skirt (mamianqun), with its distinctive overlapping panels and intricate pleats, stands as a timeless symbol of Chinese fashion ingenuity. For nearly a millennium, this garment evolved alongside dynastic shifts, social norms, and artistic innovations. Today, it’s experiencing a global renaissance, embraced by Hanfu enthusiasts and haute couture designers alike. In this article, we unravel its remarkable journey from the Song Dynasty’s utilitarian xuanqun to the Qing Dynasty’s lavish pleated masterpieces. 1. Song Dynasty Origins: The Birth of the Xuanqun (10th–13th Century) The horse-face skirt’s story begins in the Song Dynasty (960–1279), an era marked by economic prosperity and technological advancements in textile production. Practical Design for Active Lifestyles The early prototype, called xuanqun (旋裙, “rotating skirt”), featured a two-panel split design that allowed freedom of movement. Unlike later elaborate versions, it prioritized functionality: Worn by working-class women for tasks like horseback riding and farming. Lightweight fabrics like silk gauze ensured breathability. Minimal pleating focused on ease of movement rather than decoration. Archaeological Evidence A pivotal discovery came from Huang Sheng’s Tomb (Fuzhou, 1243 CE), where a well-preserved xuanqun was unearthed: Made of sheer silk with simple knife pleats. Waistband secured with fabric ties, lacking the overlapping panels of later designs. 2. Ming Dynasty Standardization (14th–17th Century) The Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) transformed the xuanqun into…

Hanfu, the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, has experienced a remarkable resurgence. What was once a niche interest among history enthusiasts and cultural purists has now blossomed into a full-blown fashion movement. By 2024, the Hanfu market is not just thriving—it’s evolving, adapting, and influencing modern fashion in ways that few could have predicted a decade ago. The Hanfu Phenomenon The Hanfu revival isn’t just about clothing; it’s a cultural statement. Rooted in over 3,000 years of history, Hanfu represents more than just aesthetics—it’s a symbol of identity and heritage. In 2024, this traditional attire has found its way into the wardrobes of a diverse audience, from young students to working professionals, and even international fashion enthusiasts. The driving force behind this resurgence? A combination of government support, cultural pride, and the rise of China-chic (国潮). Policies promoting traditional culture, such as the "14th Five-Year Plan for the Development of Chinese Traditional Culture," have played a significant role in boosting public interest. Events like China Huafu Day (中国华服日) and Huazhao Festival (花朝节) have further cemented Hanfu’s place in contemporary culture, turning it into a symbol of national pride. The Market Boom: Numbers Don’t Lie The numbers speak for themselves.…

If you spotted a character in a historical drama twirling in a pink, pleated dress and thought, Wow, that looks surprisingly modern, you're not alone. The outfit in question, featured in The Glory (雁回时), closely resembles a contemporary flared dress, but it actually belongs to a category of Ming Dynasty garments known as tieli (贴里). This style, along with the similar yesa (曳撒), reflects a fascinating blend of influences, practicality, and visual appeal—so much so that modern designers could easily take inspiration from it. Tieli vs. Yesa: Not Just for Women At first glance, tieli and yesa might look like elegant, structured dresses, but in the Ming Dynasty, they were primarily worn by men. Both originated under the influence of Yuan-Mongol styles but were later adapted into Han Chinese fashion. The key difference? Yesa features a smooth front panel known as a Mamian (马面), while tieli is characterized by full pleats from top to bottom. These structured garments were designed for mobility, making them popular choices for officials, scholars, and even military figures. While women occasionally wore these garments, it was often as part of cross-dressing trends in dramas or plays, where they took on male roles. Today, it’s not…

Carmen Lee (李若彤), the actress best known for her iconic role as the "Dragon Girl" in Return Of The Condor Heroes (神雕侠侣), has once again captured the public’s attention—this time, not for her acting, but for her breathtaking appearance in Hanfu, traditional Chinese clothing. At 58, Lee’s grace and poise have left fans in awe, proving that true beauty transcends age. Whether in modern attire or ancient garments, she exudes a blend of elegance and strength that continues to inspire. A Perfect Match for Song Dynasty Style Lee’s recent Hanfu looks draw inspiration from the Song Dynasty, a period renowned for its understated yet sophisticated fashion. Her outfits typically feature a cross-collar blouse paired with pleated skirts, a classic combination that reflects the refined taste of noblewomen from that era. The addition of a pibo (披帛, a long silk scarf) adds a touch of fluidity and grace, enhancing the overall aesthetic. Her makeup, reminiscent of the Tang and Song dynasties’ Feixia style (飞霞妆), involves a light layer of rouge topped with white powder, creating a delicate, rosy glow. This technique, also seen in Liu Yifei’s (刘亦菲) portrayal in A Dream of Splendor (梦华录), complements warm skin tones beautifully, making it…

Why should hanfu makers turn to thrift stores? For the deals, of course!

On June 25th, a unique cultural exchange took place as over 40 Chinese and American high school students from the Ricci Young Scholars Program (光启青年学者项目) embarked on an immersive journey through the historic city of Nanjing. This initiative aims to foster deep cultural understanding between youths from both nations, with participants this year focusing on the classical gardens of China. The day began at the renowned Southeast University, a prestigious institution with a rich architectural heritage. Professors Wang Xiaoqian and Gu Kai delivered insightful lectures titled "I.M. Pei and His Suzhou Museum" and "Understanding Chinese Classical Gardens: Beginning with Dianchuny (殿春簃) ," respectively. Through these lectures, the students gained a unique perspective on Chinese architecture and its intricate relationship with nature and history. The morning session concluded with a serene walk through the rain-kissed campus, allowing the students to absorb the historic and contemporary essence of the university. Exploring Nanjing's Majestic City Walls In the afternoon, the group visited the Nanjing City Wall Museum. Here, they engaged with the history and cultural significance of the ancient city walls through a variety of exhibits, including artifacts, digital sand tables, and interactive displays. The highlight of the tour was ascending the iconic…

Hi everyone, welcome to newhanfu.com, the Newhanfu Community. “To help more people to learn Hanfu costume, Chinese traditional culture and feel the charm of China!” – this is our philosophy, which we have been insisting on many years. And we are so glad that we are still here with all of you. In order to give back to all our readers for their long-term support, we have prepared a variety of fascinating hanfu costume gifts for those who love and give publicity to Hanfu. Starting from 2021, we have officially launched the Hanfu Free Giveaways. We are looking forward to your participation and get your first set of hanfu costume. By 2024, we've given away more than 1,300+ free hanfu for our members (they come from all over the world, and including many social medias, like Facebook, Instagram, Reddit, Tiktok, etc. Thank you all for the love and always support)   Hanfu Free Giveaways Points for Discount  Start earning points and unlock exciting discounts on our exquisite hanfu collection. Every 100 points earned equals $1 in discounts on future purchases. For example, if you have accumulated 500 points, you can enjoy a $5 discount on your next order in Newhanfu Store.  …

Mamian skirt, Qixiong dress, and the hundred-pleat skirt; wearing traditional Hanfu has become a new trend in public attire in recent years, whether it be for sightseeing, wedding ceremonies, shopping, friend gatherings, and various other occasions. The "Hanfu craze" continues to rise, blending tradition with modernity, activating cultural resources, igniting the consumer market, and driving industrial development. In recent years, Hanfu has gradually gained popularity among the younger generation, with their youthful expression and fashionable presentation bringing Chinese traditional culture into daily life in a tangible and palpable form. The long-standing Chinese traditional clothing culture embodies a blend of Chinese aesthetic interests, reflecting not only a consumer choice but also the Chinese people's love for outstanding traditional culture.   Demand exceeds supply During the Spring Festival and Lantern Festival of the Year of the Dragon, the activity of "wearing Chinese costumes for free to visit the Confucian Temples" in Qufu City, Jining, Shandong, has been well received. Wang Chunling, a visitor from Liaoning, traveled a long distance with friends to play here, attracted by the lively atmosphere of night tours in the ancient city of Qufu and folk performances, and dressed in Hanfu to join the parade. This year, garments…