Did you know that ear muffs existed in ancient times? Recent historical dramas like "Tian Geng Ji" and "Jin Nang Miao Lu" have showcased these fluffy ear coverings, which bear a striking resemblance to the ones we use today. The answer is simple: ancient people naturally didn’t want their ears to freeze in winter, so they invented these accessories—though they were primarily used by wealthier families.
Names in Ancient China
In ancient China, these ear-warming accessories had various names, such as Er Nuan (耳暖), Er Yi (耳衣), and Hu Er (护耳). During the Tang Dynasty, they were called Er Yi (耳衣), specifically designed to protect ears from winter’s harsh cold. The poet Li Kuo once wrote: "The golden belt is heavy, the iron-sewn Er Yi is cold." The word "iron" here was later annotated as "brocade," suggesting that these ear covers might have been made of luxurious brocade or fur. While their exact design remains unknown, murals and figurines hint at two styles: one with long fur strips hanging from the ears and another with fabric covers tied at the sides.
Evolution in the Ming Dynasty
By the Ming Dynasty, a new iteration called Nuan Er (暖耳) emerged and was officially integrated into court attire. According to the "Ming Shi · Yu Fu Zhi," officials were required to wear Nuan Er every November before Emperor Wanli’s reign. Scholars speculate that these ear muffs were rectangular, worn on both sides over hats, and often made of precious fur. The "Beijing Sui Hua Ji" records that during the winter solstice, demand for Nuan Er drove prices sky-high, making them a luxury item. The emperor even gifted sable Nuan Er to officials as a sign of favor, though the practice was discontinued due to its exorbitant cost.
Development in the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China
In the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era, Nuan Er evolved into a versatile folk accessory, crafted in shapes like hearts and butterflies. These elegant pieces featured intricate embroidery of birds, flowers, and poetic verses, connected by a delicate string for easy wear or storage around the neck. Paired with warm hats or fur collars, their insulation was unmatched—so effective that their design persists today.
The Cyclical Fashion Trend
This winter fashion trend, blending functionality and artistry, proves that style truly is cyclical. One standout pattern is the "Jia Die Tuan Hua Fei Niao Wen" (蛱蝶团花飞鸟纹), discovered in Dunhuang and now housed in the British Museum. Its circular motif features vibrant birds in symmetrical flight, surrounded by blossoms and fluttering butterflies, symbolizing the joy of spring.
