In the historical drama 'Guo Se Fang Hua,' many viewers noticed that Dong Jie's character, Feng Xiaoyi, stood out with a unique accessory—a piece of fabric wrapped around her chest, commonly referred to as 'Wei Shang' (围裳). This ancient fashion element, often humorously called 'butt curtain' in modern slang, has a rich history and cultural significance.
What is 'Wei Shang'?
'Wei Shang,' which translates to 'surrounding skirt,' was a versatile garment in ancient China. It could be a single piece of fabric, multiple panels sewn together, or even a pleated design, depending on the fashion trends of the time. Scholars also refer to it as 'Yao Qun' (腰裙), described in 'The Dictionary of Ancient Chinese Clothing' as a short skirt worn around the waist. Research by Ruan Li from Shanghai University further defines it as a wide band tied around the hips, often adorned with decorative knots or beads.
This accessory was not just for aesthetics; it served practical purposes too. In winter, it could be padded with cotton for warmth, while in summer, lighter fabrics were used for breathability. The 'Wei Shang' added layers and dimension to outfits, much like the tiered designs of Western cake dresses.
Fashion Trends in Sui and Tang Dynasties
During the Sui and Tang dynasties, the waistline of dresses rose to the bust, pulling the 'Wei Shang' up with it. This trend is evident in murals and artifacts, such as those from the tomb of Princess Xincheng, where court ladies are depicted wearing these elevated skirts. The 'striped skirt' style, popular in the early Tang dynasty, featured multiple vertical panels for a slimming effect, enhanced by the layered 'Wei Shang.'
Costume in 'National Treasure'
Yang Zi's costume in 'National Treasure' showcased this historical fashion, blending the 'striped skirt' with the 'Wei Shang' for a look that was both elegant and structured. The 'Wei Shang' could be worn open or wrapped, short or long, offering flexibility for both daily activities and formal occasions.
A notable design featured in the drama is the 'Jia Die Tuan Hua Fei Niao Wen' (蛱蝶团花飞鸟纹), a motif of butterflies and birds in symmetrical patterns, symbolizing the joy of spring. This pattern, originally found in Dunhuang and now housed in the British Museum, adds a touch of historical artistry to the costumes.
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