Recently, the lead actress's look in Princess Agents 2 was revealed, featuring Huang Yangdiantian wearing a double-loop hairstyle known as Shuang Huan Wang Xian Ji, adorned with golden Buyao (步摇) hairpins. Netizens commented that this might be the only look in the series that closely resembles the historical setting of the story. Although Princess Agents is a fictional tale, its backdrop is closest to the Northern Zhou Dynasty of the Northern and Southern Dynasties period, given the prominence of aristocratic families like the Yu Wen clan. During this era, Buyao hairpins were a symbol of status and nobility, which explains why fans are praising this particular look.
Buyao is a general term for hair ornaments that sway with movement. It gained popularity among the upper class during the Han and Jin Dynasties, becoming a signature accessory for noblewomen. Historical texts like Shi Ming · Shi Shou Shi from the Han Dynasty describe Buyao as "hairpins with dangling pearls that sway with each step." The Hou Han Shu · Yu Fu Zhi also mentions Buyao as part of the empress's ceremonial attire. These ornaments varied in design, from standalone hairpins to elaborate crowns, often decorated with motifs like trees, flowers, leaves, and mythical creatures such as birds, bears, deer, and tigers—symbols of ancient reverence for nature and mythology. The evolution of Buyao can be traced from simple hairpins to ceremonial crowns, reflecting its growing significance in rituals.
Buyao was typically worn in two ways: attached to a hat (reflecting early nomadic influences) or directly pinned into a topknot (the more common style). Over time, Buyao designs diversified, incorporating animal shapes and tassels during the Song and Yuan Dynasties, further embodying the elegance of "swaying with every step."
The double-loop hairstyle, or Shuang Huan, has been a timeless trend since the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties. Initially depicted in paintings of celestial beings and noblewomen, this hairstyle was tied high on the head, symbolizing an ethereal quality. The technique involved parting the hair down the middle, gathering it into two loops at the crown, and securing it behind the ears. This classic style persisted through dynasties, with variations emerging post-Tang Dynasty. The key to its appeal lies in its lightness and grace. While actress Wang Churan previously attempted this look, her excessive accessories weighed it down, unlike Huang Yangdiantian's praised rendition, which perfectly balances the Buyao's elegance with the hairstyle's charm.
Fans are hopeful that Princess Agents 2 will embrace more historically accurate designs, though whether it will stick to this aesthetic or revert to a mixed style remains to be seen. Regardless, the increasing incorporation of cultural references in period dramas offers a glimpse into the timeless allure of traditional aesthetics.
