Cheongsam, as one of the traditional Chinese dresses, can be seen as one of the tags of oriental women. It is like an ink-scented rice paper, which writes the history of Chinese dress, and like an inscription of the ancient time, even the folds of which contain the scent of ancient culture. It is not only a garment, but also a carrier of traditional Chinese culture.
As one of the key elements of the composition of cheongsam, the collar shape has a very important influence on the style of cheongsam. Traditional cheongsam collar, often with a stand collar design, formed an elegant effect, with good effect in highlighting the lines of the female neck and body.
The details of the cheongsam collar, show the workmanship, also the soul of the cheongsam. The right collar type can fit perfectly with the body, but also with the cheongsam as a whole, to the overall style of cheongsam into more exquisite aesthetic temperament, from the fundamental focus on temperament.
The origin of the cheongsam collar
The relationship between modern cheongsam and Qing dynasty Manchu robe is still controversial, but it is undeniable that there is an inextricable relationship between cheongsam and Qi costume. In the Qing dynasty palace drama, we can often see the embroidered scarf around the neck, which may be the prototype of the cheongsam collar.
Initially, the main body of the cheongsam and the collar is separate, the collar is a folded up about 2 inches wide silk band, around the neck, one end tucked in the top lapel inside, the other end hanging in front of the chest, also known as the Ling Jin (领巾). From the mid to late Qing dynasty legacy information, stand collar appeared in the robe, research scholars believe that it is by imitating the Ming dynasty stand collar.
8 kinds of modern cheongsam collar type
Different collar types are suitable for different styles of cheongsam. And according to the collar length, color, edge cover, embroidery, button and other details to divide, there will be more cheongsam collars, with the following classification to collar shape as the standard.
Yuanbao collar (元宝领, sycee collar), also known as Qing dynasty stand collar, due to the high standing part of the collar on both sides is very similar to the two petals of the sycee, and therefore named.
The height of this collar is almost parallel to the tip of the nose, and the collar is pressed diagonally on both sides of the chin, playing a role in modifying the face shape. When wearing a cheongsam with a Yuanbao collar, the woman should raise chin and straighten neck to show the dignified posture.
In the late Qing Dynasty, the Yuanbao collar was very common. The film and drama take the late Qing dynasty and early Republican era as time background, this collar type is often seen, commonly used in the autumn and winter cheongsam, rolled on the edge with fur to keep warm.
Fengxian collar (凤仙领, phoenix fairy collar) is a kind of roll collar, also can well set off the face shape, give a delicate and soft feeling. This collar shape is like the mouth of a porcelain vase, rounded, naturally folded down, and often complemented by a complex shape of button knot for embellishment.
Fengxian collar is widely used in the cheongsam dress, especially by young women's favorite. The material will be slightly thicker brocade or cotton linen, to ensure that the collar stands and roll.
Classic round collar
Round collar, is one of the most common collar type in cheongsam. The front collar point is curved, then according to the curvature size is divided into small, medium, and large round collar. The round collar will be decorated with button knot of various materials, and the higher the collar, the more buttons used (not exactly absolute).
The square collar of the cheongsam is similar to the stand collar of the Zhongshan suit, with a solemn and strict style without losing the feminine flavor. The collar can be decorated with dark colored inserts, which looks very delicate.
The drop collar is based on the round collar added hollow design, revealing a little skin and collarbone shape, more distinctive and sexy. Drop collar is a more common and popular collar in cheongsam today. When the whole body is wrapped in a cheongsam, the teardrop-shaped hollow gives the release and enjoyment of beauty, wearing such a cheongsam woman is elegant and gentle.
A kind of collar style developed from Western clothing style, adding dark or bright color inlay in the collar, so that the edge of the collar is undulating wave shape.
V-collar is mostly used in the design of modern cheongsam. When making, the collar is cut together with the garment piece, also called a continuous stand collar.
The matching of straight line and curve of V-collar is a great test of hemming craft skill. This type of collar is generally not cut in the front of the dress because the collar is pointed, so the style is also easier to wear and more modern.
The design at the neckline is shaped like a horse's hoof, with a square top and pointed bottom, generally match in the celadon pattern cheongsam with a more classical flavor.
In cheongsam making, collar can be adjusted according to individual situation to get more comfortable wearing.
The choice of collar button quantity: the button is generally based on the overall color of the cheongsam and collar style to determine the color and quantity.
According to the collar height determine one, two, or three rows. Three rows of one button can highlight the line of the neck, but most of the time one-row collar button is more common.
In addition to the collar buttons, the number of embellishments row around the edge of the collar also varies.
The collar can also be embroidered with lace and sewn with lace trim. Black lace trim used on cheongsam collars and lapels is a classical and modern combination that can make the cheongsam more dignified.
Over the years, the modern cheongsam has evolved and various styles and designs have emerged, and the variety of collar types has provided the possibility for innovation in cheongsam styling. Whether traditional or modern, each collar design has a unique charm and symbolic meaning.
Learn more about cheongsam.