The Versatile Design of Tang Dynasty Outerwear
Liu Shishi's costume in the new drama Kill My Sins features a loosely draped Hanfu style that has sparked online discussions. This garment, known as Piao (披袄), represents a traditional outerwear design from the Tang Dynasty. Unlike modern coats, this historical clothing piece demonstrates remarkable adaptability across seasons and occasions.
The Piao originated from the Yuanlingpao (圆领袍), a round-collar robe commonly worn during the Tang era. Through practical modifications, ancestors transformed it into a multi-functional garment. The collar was widened and curved for both aesthetic appeal and warmth retention, while some versions adopted straight collars. When worn open, the decorative inner lining became visible, creating a sophisticated yet understated fashion statement.
Tang Dynasty clothing didn't follow strict seasonal classifications. Instead, people adjusted the fabric thickness and layering for temperature regulation. Historical records like Tang Liudian (唐六典) document how winter versions contained specific amounts of padding, essentially serving as ancient down jackets. Summer versions featured lighter materials, functioning similarly to modern air-conditioning jackets.
This practical design wasn't limited by gender - both men and women wore variations of the Piao. The garment's versatility allowed it to serve as a windbreaker in autumn, insulated coat in winter, or lightweight cover-up in summer. Its open-and-close functionality provided adjustable protection against changing weather conditions throughout the day.
While contemporary audiences might overlook these historical garments in museums, they represent authentic daily wear from China's golden age. The relaxed silhouette of Hanfu, including the Piao, embodies an aesthetic philosophy that values comfort and practicality. This design philosophy continues to influence modern fashion, as seen when cultural influencer Li Ziqi wore similar styles at public events.
Many regional dialects still refer to certain coats as Piao, demonstrating how these historical clothing concepts persist in collective memory. The Tang Dynasty's innovative approach to garment design offers valuable insights into sustainable fashion - creating multi-purpose clothing that transcends seasonal limitations while maintaining elegance and functionality.
