In the cdrama Perfect Match, Lan Yingying (蓝盈莹) played the role of an imperial concubine, a legitimate daughter favored by the emperor. She also planned for her family, and we witnessed her growth and transformation.
Let's start with the conclusion. The outfit Lan Yingying wore was a style of the large-sleeved shirt and skirt in Song Dynasty clothing. This kind of large-sleeved shirt was usually worn by women. It had a straight collar and a front-opening design and was mainly used as an outer garment. From Tang Dynasty paintings and unearthed clothing from the Song and Ming dynasties, we can see that the large-sleeved shirt was popular in the Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties. In the Song Dynasty, it developed into an important formal dress for noble women, especially as the daily wear for concubines.
By the Ming Dynasty, the way of wearing the large-sleeved shirt was similar to that in the Song Dynasty. It was also listed as the regular clothing for queens and noble women. Typical styles included the bright red large-sleeved shirt and the bright yellow large-sleeved shirt. This evolution of the style reflects the historical continuity of traditional formal dress culture. The exquisite materials and elaborate etiquette also allow us to envision the elegant appearance of women in the ancient Celestial Empire and the Land of Etiquette with their fluttering large sleeves.
In Hanfu, large sleeves are usually associated with formal dresses and grand occasions. This is because the design of large sleeves naturally brings a sense of solemnity, making the wearer appear calm and imposing, and more likely to highlight their status. In addition, the wide sleeves naturally restrict people's movements, making their postures more upright. This effect exactly meets the ancient nobles' requirements for etiquette, so large sleeves have always been favored by the upper class. There are similar women wearing large-sleeved shirts in the murals of the Northern Song Dynasty tomb in Tangzhuang, Dengfeng, Henan. Their identities are generally the hostess or honored guests. They wear a shirt, skirt, and a chest binder layered inside the large-sleeved shirt, and through the combination of different colors at different layers, they show a magnificent and elegant appearance.
Most formal dresses of Song Dynasty women were paired with headdresses. In the murals of the Tangzhuang Northern Song Dynasty tomb, the women wore high headdresses shaped like flames and gold melon necklaces (replicas of the Song Dynasty gold necklaces collected in the Fuyang Museum in Anhui). The upper body was usually paired with a one-piece chest binder, a narrow-sleeved long robe, and a large-sleeved shirt, with a shawl on the outside. The lower body was worn with a three-pleated skirt or a hundred-folded skirt. The overall look is elegant and slightly luxurious, highlighting the Song people's ultimate pursuit of 'elegance', and the high level of interpretation is really worth savoring repeatedly!
Although the clothes she wore in the TV drama were modified based on Hanfu, they were obviously given a film and TV treatment. Not only was the sleeve length shortened, but also decorative accessories such as knee covers were added to the lower skirt. These 'accessory decorations' are generally used in major ceremonial occasions such as sacrifices, not in daily imperial court clothing. It's okay for everyone to have a general understanding of this and not to get confused.
But overall, this outfit of 'Huanbi' has completely changed the audience's previous impression of her. Some netizens think that she naturally shows the temperament of a gentle and cultivated young lady in ancient costumes, which is closely related to the etiquette, posture, and cultural confidence naturally revealed when wearing loose and imposing Hanfu.
In the drama Perfect Match, she became a prominent imperial concubine, paired with Zeng Shunxi as the emperor and concubine. She is also the 'daughter' of Zhen Yuandao. With this luxurious outfit, it can be said to make up for the regret of the dismal ending of her previous roles. What do you think? This exploration of traditional clothing in the drama offers a unique window into history, and it's fascinating to see how these elements blend with modern storytelling.
