In period dramas set in the Ming Dynasty, you’ll often notice large white collars, sometimes even layered over patterned ones. Was this just a peculiar fashion choice? The answer lies in practicality.
Back then, people wanted to avoid frequent laundry, especially since sweat easily soiled collars in summer. The solution? A detachable white collar called “Huling” (护领). This removable piece could be washed separately, maintaining cleanliness without worrying about color bleeding. Its neutral white hue also made it versatile, matching any outfit color effortlessly.
For those who wanted to skip washing altogether, disposable paper collars existed as early as the Wei – Jin period. The “Book of Wei” records an official using paper collars for frugality. By the Ming Dynasty, widespread papermaking made these affordable for commoners, while nobles used specialty papers—essentially creating the first “daily disposable” collars.
Huling came in varying widths, though none exceeded the main collar’s size. While main collars could be colorful, Huling remained plain white. Some debate exists about colored or embroidered versions, but these likely prioritized aesthetics over functionality. Typically used on cross – collar or front – opening outer garments, they weren’t mandatory—underlayers still required regular washing.
Compared to modern garments where cleaning a whole piece for just a dirty collar seems wasteful, this ancient innovation shows timeless wisdom applicable to contemporary fashion design. Don’t you agree?
