Have you ever noticed those intricate ornaments dangling from the chests of characters in historical Chinese dramas? Particularly prevalent in Tang-style productions, these accessories are often mistakenly called “ya jin” (压襟). To set the record straight, they’re actually known as “zhui ling” (坠领) or “zhui xiong” (坠胸) depending on their length.
These exquisite pieces resemble jade pendants but feature delicate attachments. Their purposes were twofold: first, as auspicious symbols adorned with meaningful patterns; second, as ceremonial reminders – the gentle tinkling sound they produced when moving too quickly served as an elegant prompt for graceful, measured steps.
Primarily worn by Ming Dynasty women, zhui ling belonged to the “jin bu” (禁步) category of accessories. Historical records like “Ke Zuo Zhui Yu” describe them as “gold, pearl, and jade crafted into various shapes, with mountain – cloud or floral motifs above, connected by long chains to hanging ornaments.” When worn at the chest, they were called zhui ling; when attached to the waist, they became “qi shi” (七事).
Ming portraits clearly depict zhui ling hanging below standing collars, evolving from earlier versions that suspended multiple small objects. These gold and jade ornaments, similar in decorative function to necklaces, complemented the metallic buttons on standing collars to create dazzling chest decorations.
Archaeological findings reveal that while zhui ling and qi shi shared similar forms, their hanging positions differed. By late Ming, zhui ling had largely transformed into purely decorative pendants featuring floral and animal motifs, while qi shi remained more practical – often including functional items like scissors, pouches, and perfume sachets worn by both genders.
Simplified versions existed too: “san shi” (三事) with ear picks, tweezers, and toothpicks, or even “er shi” (二事) with just two items. These traditions may trace back to Tang Dynasty’s “die xie qi shi” (蹀躞七事) – seven practical items worn by military officials.
Notable archaeological discoveries include:
1. A 37cm decorative zhui ling from Lady Liu’s tomb (Jingduan King’s concubine), featuring golden lotus leaves, three gold chains with various fruit – shaped ornaments, and a sapphire – adorned fish pendant.
2. A traditional qi shi set from Wan Gui’s tomb (father of Emperor Xianzong’s favorite consort), containing miniature scissors, floral pouches, a tiny sword, and other practical decorative items resembling modern keychains or Swiss army knives.
While modern historical dramas often anachronistically place these ornaments on Tang – style costumes, their visual appeal remains undeniable. These artifacts offer fascinating glimpses into ancient Chinese aesthetics and daily life, blending beauty with functionality in ways that continue to captivate us today.
