China's Most Daring Breakfast Tradition: Starting with Morning Wine

Have you ever heard of Morning Wine?

This phrase might sound unfamiliar, but a quick search on platforms like Bilibili or Douyin will reveal videos with hundreds of thousands or even millions of views—scenes depicting a leisurely meal in the early hours, complete with small glasses of wine and a table laden with dishes. This tradition of enjoying a relaxed breakfast with a few drinks has quietly captured the admiration of many, drawing young people to regions like Hubei, Sichuan, and Chongqing, where Morning Wine culture thrives.

In the heartlands of China, beyond the bustling cities and serene countryside, lies a breakfast tradition steeped in camaraderie and cultural richness—the practice of Morning Wine (晨酒). Contrary to its name, Morning Wine is not merely about alcohol but embodies a convivial morning meal paired with modest spirits, celebrating local flavors and community ties.

Originating along the banks of the mighty Yangtze River, Morning Wine is more than just a meal; it's a social ritual deeply ingrained in the fabric of everyday life. Traditionally enjoyed by laborers and farmers to kickstart their day, it has evolved into a cherished custom celebrated across generations.

Beyond Just Morning Drinks: The Allure of Meat

At first glance, Morning Wine seems to simply involve drinking in the morning—what's so special about that? Well, at these breakfast tables, wine actually plays a minor role. The focus is on the array of drinking dishes.

The star of the show is always the meat. Picture plates of braised beef, steaming hot pots with beef brisket, pig trotters, and succulent fatty duck. Carbohydrates are equally important—whether it's noodles, rice, or a bowl of hearty millet, accompanied by small stir-fried dishes. These are all everyday foods but served in generous portions, bursting with flavor and immensely satisfying. The tantalizing meat dishes steal the spotlight at Morning Wine gatherings.

Journey to Jingli: A Haven for Morning Wine Enthusiasts

The town of Jingli in Hubei stands out as a fervent admirer of Morning Wine culture. Morning Wine customs thrive along the Yangtze River, from the upstream regions of Sichuan and Chongqing to Wuhan, the bustling crossroads of nine provinces, and even the refined streets of Shanghai—all exhibit this unique tradition. However, it is in Jingli where Morning Wine is perhaps most passionately embraced.

Jingli boasts an astonishing number of Morning Wine taverns and stalls. Estimates range from a conservative 1,000 to an exaggerated 4,000 establishments. For a city with just over a million residents, this diversity of Morning Wine spots is truly remarkable.

Culinary Delights of Jingli

Morning Wine in Jingli showcases a variety of culinary specialties:

Beef-centric: Small pots brimming with braised beef, featuring cuts like brisket, tripe, tendons, and bones, simmered to tender perfection before being served. Pair these with a glass of white wine to dispel the morning chill.

Flavorful Braises: Another favorite is the braised assortment—duck, eggs, pig trotters, and tofu skins—all fried until crisp and then braised, blending the savory crunch of deep-fried treats with the rich flavors of braising, offering a lingering taste perfect with wine.

Noodles and More: The stalls that excel in offal dishes serve fresh intestines and blood tofu, best enjoyed with mixed noodles. These hearty meals, rich in oil, salt, and spice, are rounded off with a bowl of noodles, settling the stomach after indulging in Morning Wine.

Local Hot Pot or Fire Bowl

Among the plethora of dishes, Local Hot Pot (土火锅) stands out as a favorite on Morning Wine menus. More aptly named Fire Bowl, it consists of a shallow dish of alcohol with a large porcelain bowl placed on top. Inside the bowl, ingredients like coriander, salt, sugar, chili, meat slices, meatballs, and fried tofu are arranged. The alcohol is lit beneath the bowl, gradually heating the contents until they simmer, allowing patrons to skillfully dip their spoons in and savor the transformed meat into crescent-shaped meatballs. Some stalls have switched from porcelain bowls to small iron pots, maintaining simplicity without compromising the joy of the meal.

This Local Hot Pot epitomizes Morning Wine stalls: humble, affordable, not exceeding the cost of breakfast, with moderate portions that keep patrons comfortably full while enjoying their leisurely pace of conversation and drinking.

The Enchantment of Morning Wine Beyond Jingli Along the Yangtze River

Morning Wine isn't confined to Jingli alone; it permeates across the nation:

From bustling Wuhan, where breakfast is synonymous with the early crossing, to the banks of the Yangtze River in Chongqing, where mountains converge, and laborers gather to drink wine and savor dishes like shredded pork noodles, eel noodles, beef hot pot, and braised duck hot pot—menus reminiscent of Jingli's Morning Wine tradition.

Even in Shanghai, often considered to have the nation's lowest alcohol tolerance, Morning Wine is savored. In the chilly winters and hot summers of Jiangnan, many night shift workers opt for a couple of morning drinks to warm their stomachs. Traditional favorites like lamb are enjoyed differently across the city—red braised in the north and simply boiled in the south. A Morning Wine feast with a large plate of lamb and a few good friends remains a cherished pastime in this bustling international city.

Morning Wine Across the Nation

Morning Wine culture isn't just confined to cities bustling with industry and transport; it thrives in quieter corners of China too:

Southern Guangdong: In Foshan, known as the gastronomic capital of Lingnan, the tradition of red rice wine paired with freshly steamed porridge has deep roots. Red rice wine, a fragrant liquor made from red and white rice, pairs perfectly with dishes like steamed spare ribs, fresh porridge, and rice noodle rolls—a morning repast that extends comfortably until noon.

Shandong's Rural Charm: From bustling marketplaces to rural communities, Shandong's Morning Wine tradition emphasizes a down-to-earth spirit. At dawn, markets bustle with vendors offering cuts of beef and lamb, marinated and prepared right before customers' eyes. A bowl of smoked tofu and a plate of seafood are typical breakfasts—wholesome and hearty enough to last until lunchtime, offering perhaps the most grounded seafood buffet.

Whether you're savoring Morning Wine along the Yangtze or exploring the serene corners of southern Guangdong, Morning Wine offers a precious sense of relaxation and a profound appreciation for life's simpler pleasures. In an era dominated by subway schedules and work deadlines, observing the lively Morning Wine scenes through screens brings a rare moment of relaxation, delivering joy in its purest form—the joy of food and camaraderie.