Feiyufu Hanfu: Flying Fish Robe Motif, Structure and Revival 1

Feiyufu Hanfu: Flying Fish Robe Motif, Structure and Revival

Ask most people what the Feiyufu (飞鱼服) looks like, and they will describe a red-robed officer of the Jinyiwei (锦衣卫, Embroidered Uniform Guard) with a saber at his waist — the image endlessly recycled by martial-arts cinema. The real Ming dynasty story is different on both counts. The Feiyufu was never the Jinyiwei’s uniform, and […]

Zhiju Hanfu: Gauze Robe and Han Daily Wear 2

Zhiju Hanfu: Gauze Robe and Han Daily Wear

The Zhiju (直裾) is one of the most basic — and most misunderstood — forms in the traditional Chinese wardrobe. It stands alongside the Quju (曲裾) as one of the two branches of the Shenyi (深衣), yet claims like “the Zhiju equals the chanyu” and “the Zhiju equals the straight-hem Shenyi” have confused Hanfu enthusiasts […]

Mawangdui Hanfu Nights at China Art Museum: An 8-Hour Farewell 3

Mawangdui Hanfu Nights at China Art Museum: An 8-Hour Farewell

The T-shaped silk painting that has anchored the summer at China Art Museum in Shanghai is going home, and the museum has turned its final two evenings into a Hanfu night. On August 15 and 16, the “Qianjin Zhijia” (千金之家, “A Home of a Thousand Gold”) exhibition on the lifestyle aesthetics of the Mawangdui Han […]

A Guide to Layering the Pifeng, Autumn's Ming Hanfu Cape 4

A Guide to Layering the Pifeng, Autumn’s Ming Hanfu Cape

A Ming scholar who never returned home left the clearest written description of the Pifeng (披风). Zhu Shunshui (朱舜水), who fled to Japan after the fall of the Ming, appears in a compilation of his sayings, the Zhushi Shunshui Tanqi (朱氏舜水谈绮), describing how the coat was cut: “The fabric and color match those of the […]

Mandarin Collar: How the Tang Yuanlingpao Circled the Globe 5

Mandarin Collar: How the Tang Yuanlingpao Circled the Globe

The collar that Western fashion calls the Mandarin collar sits neither high nor low, circles the neck without lapels, and needs no tie. It shows up on custom qipao from Shanghai, on the Nehru jacket, on the Beatles’ collarless suits, and on the standing-collar silhouettes that kept appearing at the Milan and Paris menswear shows […]

Daopao vs Zhiduo vs Zhishen: Ming Hanfu Robes Compared 6

Daopao vs Zhiduo vs Zhishen: Ming Hanfu Robes Compared

Open any serious study of Ming-dynasty menswear and the same three names appear together: the Zhiduo (直裰), the Daopao (道袍) and the Zhishen (直身). All are crossed-collar, right-lapel long gowns that hang past the knee, and at a glance they look like one garment. The differences sit in the fabric panel each robe does or […]

Qipao, Hanfu, Kimono, Ao Dai and Hanbok on a London Runway 7

Qipao, Hanfu, Kimono, Ao Dai and Hanbok on a London Runway

On August 29, a runway inside The Fan Museum in Greenwich, London, will hold five silhouettes that rarely share a stage: the Qipao, the Hanfu, the kimono, the ao dai and the hanbok. The models will mostly not be professionals; they will be mothers and daughters, grandmothers and granddaughters drawn from East Asian communities across […]

Why People Get So Worked Up About “Zuo Ren”

Why People Get So Worked Up About “Zuo Ren”

If you’ve ever wandered into the comments section of a Chinese historical drama, there’s a good chance you’ve seen someone ranting about whether the actors are wearing their robes “correctly.” And by “correctly,” they often mean one of two things: first, is the hair tied up or left loose? And second, is the robe crossing […]

Wang Churan's Hanfu Style Sparks Debate on Traditional Hairstyle 8

Wang Churan’s Hanfu Style Sparks Debate on Traditional Hairstyle

During the CCTV program ‘Golden Snake Dance • Chinese New Year Flavor,’ Wang Churan appeared in traditional Hanfu attire, but her hairstyle raised eyebrows among some netizens. They questioned whether the two strands of hair in front resembled the Japanese ‘hime cut.’ To clarify, this hairstyle, known as ‘Chuixiao Ji,’ can be traced back to […]

Inner Hanfu: Period Drama Sleepwear Reality 9

Inner Hanfu: Period Drama Sleepwear Reality

Finally, a period drama where characters don’t sleep in their day clothes. Many period dramas show characters sleeping fully dressed, which makes netizens wonder: Why neglect such an important daily routine? Did ancient people not have their own ‘sleepwear’? Ancient sleepwear was called ‘Xieyi’ (亵衣). According to Shuowen Jiezi, ‘Xie’ means private or intimate clothing. […]

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