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Did Ming Officials Really Wear Jeweled Hats?
The recent period drama The Unclouded Soul (逍遥) sparked debate not just over its plot, but over a hat. Actor Wang Duo's (汪铎) character, Bing Zhu (秉烛), holds a position akin to the head of the Eastern Depot (东厂), a feared Ming Dynasty secret police agency. Such leaders were sometimes ironically called “Factory Flowers” for their perceived flamboyance. His costume, featuring an ornate black gauze cap with a central jeweled ornament known as a Maozheng (帽正), seemed to fit that trope. Yet, viewers questioned its historical accuracy, asking if Ming officials truly wore such elaborate headpieces or if the show was taking creative liberties. Icon of Authority The black gauze cap, or Wushamao (乌纱帽), is the definitive symbol of a Ming Dynasty bureaucrat. Its origin lies in the Futou (幞头), a headscarf from the Wei and Jin periods. By the Ming era, it had evolved into a stiffened hat, officially codified as mandatory court attire. Officials wore it with a round-collar robe, a belt, and black boots. This uniform was so entrenched that "losing the black gauze cap" became, and remains, a metaphor for losing one's official post. Scholars like Gao Chunming (高春明) and Sun Ji (孙机) note the Ming…
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