Guide & Tutorial

Vocabulary Moon-shaped fan; 团扇 (tuánshàn). Also called 宫扇(gōng shàn), 纨扇 (wánshàn), 合欢扇 (héhuān shàn), a fan that is made from silks, embroideries, golds, beads, etc. later on into the period.  Barrier fan; 障扇 (zhàng shàn) - one of the earliest version of fan from ancestors. Made with pheasant’s feathers and has a long handle. Also known as 长扇 (Chǎng shàn)、掌扇 (zhǎng shàn)、五明扇 (wǔ míng shàn). It is under the category of moon-shaped fan (团扇). Imperial carriage; 辇 (niǎn). Also known as chariot. This is the earlier versions of traveling vehicles primarily used by prestigious people for ceremonial processes, imperial tours, and any other formal occasions. The usage of this is closely related to imperial court instead of public, such as for emperor, queen’s mother, empress, and imperial concubines. These types of carriage are still man-drawn, and are made of simple designs with either a cushion or a chair for the individual seating on it.   History of Tuanshan The moon-shaped fan, also known as 团扇 (tuánshàn), is a traditional handicraft tool of the Han people from ancient China. It consists of four main components: the fan's frame, handles (usually short in length), the fan's surface (made of semi-transparent or opaque…

An increasing number of young people are beginning to experiment with wearing hanfu, these clothing styles, which were widely used in different historical dynasties in ancient China, are now being reintegrated into contemporary life and have become an important part of youth culture.   The Origin of Hanfu Culture: From Niche to Popular Typically, the origin of the modern Hanfu culture is traced back to 2003. On November 22nd of that year, a power worker named Wang Letian from Zhengzhou, Henan, walked into a downtown commercial street wearing hanfu. This event was reported by Singapore's Lianhe Zaobao, making Wang Letian the first modern Chinese person wearing hanfu to appear in public. Wang Letian was introduced to hanfu culture through forums Han Wang, and around 2003, the first hanfu enthusiasts gathered around Han Wang and other online hanfu forums, gradually forming the Hanfu circle. At the same time, some offline Hanfu culture communities began to be established. Around 2011, the subculture of adolescent internet culture rapidly developed. With the successive rise of the Lolita and the JK uniform fashion subculture, as well as the development of the cosplay community, hanfu has found its place among various clothing subcultures and has gained…

Vocab Palace Belt - 宫绦, gōng tāo, is an accessory worn around the waist to prevent dresses from flowing in the wind. It is commonly paired with hanfu for a simplistic look and referred to as such in modern times. Silk Belt - 丝绦, sī tāo. An accessory that ancient Chinese people used to refer to. However, it was not only used as a fashion accessory but also on fans or flutes. Zhiduo - 直裰, zhídāo. A traditional Chinese robe worn by scholars and officials during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It has a straight-cut Mandarin collar without openings and is a formal attire reserved for special occasions. It is worn over long shirts and wide trousers. Tassels - 流苏, liúsū. In ancient China it had different names, such as 穗子 (suìzi), 缨旒 (yīng liú), and 流苏 (liúsū). Nowadays, 流苏 (liúsū) is the most commonly used name for tassels. Silk ribbon- 绶, shòu - the ribbon with a jade or officials seals at the end.   History of Gong Tao The Palace Belt, known as 宫绦 (gōng tāo), is an accessory that dates back to the Warring States Period. It is a long woven rope with tassels attached on both…

In the context of the Chinese language, "Ling Luo Chou Duan" usually refers to various exquisite silk fabrics. However, there are many types of ancient Chinese fabrics, and "Ling Luo Chou Duan" cannot cover them all. This article will briefly introduce how to identify various Chinese ancient hanfu fabrics such as "yarn, silk, brocade, velvet", and so on. However, it should be noted that the names of each textile organization in different dynasties are not exactly the same. They have also developed over time, so this is just a general explanation to give everyone a simple impression.   Structure of Ancient Chinese Fabrics The common structures in Chinese fabrics are needed to determine the relationship between each yarn, which is the pattern of overlapping warp and weft yarns in the fabric. There are five common types of structures, which are also known as San Yuan structures. Ping Wen Structure Ping Wen structure (plain weave) is woven with the warp and weft threads alternating over and under each other. Plain weave fabrics are durable and resistant to wear, but have less elasticity and a lower sheen. If you touch it, you will find that the feel is hard, but relatively thin.…

With the revival of Chinese culture, more and more people are paying attention to Hanfu. Recently, the minimalist Song-style Hanfu has received more and more attention due to its lightweight, elegant, and comfortable features. So, how can you wear it to show a rich ancient charm? Below are some key points for matching minimalist Song Dynasty Hanfu. The biggest feature of Hanfu is its ancient charm. No matter what kind of style it is, wearing it will give people a classical and atmospheric feeling. To show this temperament, we need to use styling and color matching. When matching traditional Hanfu, we should choose classical Chinese colors first, which gives a clear and bright feeling that is more in line with Eastern aesthetics. When matching, we can control the number of colors in a single outfit to three or less. This not only reduces the difficulty of matching but also makes it more accommodating to different occasions. Finally, we can match traditional colors according to our own preferences. Among the five color systems of red, blue, yellow, white, and black, red and yellow are warm colors that can brighten the entire outfit and make it look more energetic. Blue is a…

Unlock the aesthetics of the Song Dynasty and its people through this selection of elegant and inspiring paintings. "The Song, Painted" is a digital exhibition launched by CGTN, which comprehensively presents the living scenes of ancient people in Song Dynasty paintings. Several artists, scholars, and curators share their professional insights to analyze the historical and cultural elements hidden within the Song Dynasty paintings. In this article, let's follow the Hanfu Shidai and renowned designer Chu Yan into the world of Song Dynasty paintings to appreciate the beauty of Song Dynasty costumes and makeup in detail. Song Dynasty costumes were renowned for their refined and elegant beauty. -- Chu Yan During the Song Dynasty, there was a significant shift in female body aesthetics. While plumpness was considered beautiful in the Tang Dynasty, thinness became the beauty standard in the Song Dynasty. Simple and elegant clothing styles were widely popular during this time. In "Palace Concert Rehearsal," we can see characters dressed in simple and modest Beizi (long-sleeved garments) with straight collars and side slits. The loose fit and narrow skirt worn with a tight chest wrap fully showcased the slender and graceful physique of Song women. The painting "Enjoying the Moon…

As the weather warms up and flowers begin to bloom, many couples are looking for ways to celebrate the season of love. One beautiful option is by donning traditional hanfu together. With its flowing lines and elegant designs, hanfu has been a popular choice for couples who want to show off their affection while looking stylish at the same time. Hanfu Shidai has compiled several spring hanfu that are appropriate for couples.   Orchid The orchid is renowned for its delicate beauty and cool, charming fragrance. The flower petals are small, while the leaves are long and slender, resembling willow branches with clearly visible veins, unpretentious yet elegant. Throughout history, Chinese people have regarded the orchid as a symbol of elegance and purity, often grouped with "plum blossoms, bamboo, and chrysanthemums" to form the "Four Gentlemen". The term "orchid chapter" is commonly used to describe the beauty of poetry and literature, while "orchid friend" is used to express true friendship. Therefore, ancient people loved orchids, and orchid culture has infiltrated into people's daily lives. The earliest meaning of the orchid was as an auspicious symbol of love, expressing pure and romantic love for one's partner.   Hanfu Recommendation The design…

China has a long history of loving and appreciating flowers, but in fact, before the Northern and Southern Dynasties, flowers were rarely used as the main decorative motifs in life, from the Shang and Zhou dynasties to the Han dynasty, the dominant decorative motifs were mainly animal and geometric. It was not until the Wei-Jin-North and South Dynasties periods that, with the introduction of Buddhism, the Lonicera twining pattern was introduced into China, and under the development and effect of cultural intermingling, the Lonicera twining pattern with exotic colors was combined with the local lotus pattern with auspicious symbolic meaning, forming a new form of decorative pattern. These motifs first appeared in a large number in the decoration of religious instruments, and as they spread, they also appeared frequently in the decoration of secular crafts. In the Tang Dynasty, in addition to the floral patterns inherited from the Wei and Jin Dynasties, different floral shapes such as peonies and chrysanthemums, as well as the Baoxiang patterns also appeared in the expression of the decorative patterns. The floral patterns of the Tang Dynasty are very different from the slender and delicate shapes of the Wei and Jin Dynasties, with rich and…

As the flower season approaches, it's the perfect time to refresh your wardrobe with pieces that exude elegance and grace. If you're looking for inspiration, spring hanfu offers a stunning array of options that celebrate the beauty of nature and femininity. Hanfu Shidai has compiled several spring hanfu that are appropriate for the season, based on the types of flowers that are available in spring.   Winter Jasmine Winter jasmine, the earliest blooming flower among all, is named after its ability to welcome spring when all the other flowers start to bloom. As a harbinger of spring, it brings a sense of vitality with its clusters of flowers hanging from the branches like a golden waterfall. Currently, it is the prime season for winter jasmine, and you can capture its beauty through the lens and use it to adorn life. Recommended Hanfu The bright and vibrant colors of the winter jasmine make it an excellent choice for photography with light-colored hanfu outfits. Such as a white or light-colored cross collar shirt on top and pair it with a blue-green waist-length skirt. This combination not only complements the flower but also gives a fresh and playful feeling.   Yulan Magnolia Yulan…

The Tang Dynasty is commonly known for its vibrant culture, especially when it comes to the arts, music, and fashion. One of the most iconic aspects of Tang women's fashion was their elaborate makeup styles. From brightly colored lips to elaborately decorated eyebrows, Tang women were not afraid to experiment with unique beauty trends. However, with a wide range of cosmetic methods and hues, identifying different makeup styles from this era can be quite challenging. In this article, we'll take a closer look at some of the most popular makeup trends of the Tang Dynasty and provide a beginner's guide to recognizing them. The Tang Dynasty was the pinnacle of China's feudal civilization, characterized by southern and northern unification, vast territory, political stability, economic development, and flourishing education and culture. Trade and cultural exchanges with foreign countries provided a solid foundation for the development of its culture. "At the sight of clouds, we cannot help but associate them with her glamorous attire. At the sight of flowers, we immediately think of her stunning beauty." - in the Tang Dynasty, women's makeup reached a peak in ancient Chinese history, rich and diverse in style. In the early Tang Dynasty, politics was…

The Mamian Qun, or the horse-face skirt, is a traditional Chinese dress that has a long history and a rich culture, and its elegant and graceful style. However, in recent years, the Mamian Qun has undergone some changes and innovations, thanks to the creative efforts of some designers who have given it a modern twist. In this article, we will introduce you to eight modern Mamian Qun that are stunning and fashionable. These dresses combine the essence of tradition with the elements of innovation, creating a new trend of Chinese dress that you don’t want to miss.   Style 1 It features a simple design with a piece of leather buckle, which not only adds to the aesthetic appeal but also helps to keep the dress in place. The fabric used in this Mamian Qun is not prone to wrinkles, making it an ideal choice for those who prefer a neat and polished look. The pleat style is stable, ensuring that it retains its shape even after multiple washes. Furthermore, this Mamian Qun particularly striking in the way it reflects light, displaying a golden sheen that catches the eye and adds a touch of luxury.   Style 2 This Mamian…

In ancient China, women's headwear was very gorgeous, and in addition to gold and silver jewelry, beautiful flowers were often worn as accessories. In the Song Dynasty, from the court down to the folk, both men and women loved flower hairpins. In this article, let's explore the history of traditional Chinese flower hairpins.   Origin of Flower hairpins The earliest record of the custom of flower pinning is from the period of Emperor Gaozu of Han, in which Lu Jia wrote in his "Nan Yue Xing Ji" that women in the Lingnan region liked to wear jasmine flowers as hairpins. During the Sui, Tang, and Five Dynasties period, flower hairpin was very popular among the Central Plains. At this time, society was open, people pursued fashion and novelty, and there was a wide variety of clothing and accessories, including flower pins. In the painting "Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers", we can see that the ladies are wearing peonies, lotus, hydrangea, and other flowers in their hair, which has a unique flavor. The Tang Dynasty also featured men wearing flower hairpins, and the emperor often rewarded officials and scholars with flowers. In the Song Dynasty, the custom of flower…

Vocab “Step ban” or “walking ban” - Jin Bu (禁步, jìn bù) - an accessory often matches with hanfu. It is an accessory that is threaded together with jade stones and hung over a hanfu dress.  Jade pendant - Yu Pei (玉佩, yù pèi) - also an accessory made of silk threads, beads, and jade stone that hung at the waist. But yùpèi are much simpler than Jin Bu, oftentimes it is just a jade with one or two beads tied together with thread. Oftentimes there will be no silk or bead tassels at the bottom like Jin Bu.   Materials Jin Bu are usually made up of colored silk threads, jade beads, and jade pendants combined together. There may or not have tassels made up of silk thread at the end of the accessory. If not, the tassels may also be made up of threaded beads.  Jin Bu in the past were made up of precious stones, and since they are threaded, they will clash together when walking making jade clash. If this is heard now people might not think much about it, but the etiquette and customs were stricter in ancient times, especially on feminine etiquette and how…

Vocabulary Ji, 笄 (jī) - the most simplistic hair accessories to secure updos used by ancient Chinese.  Zan, 簪 (zān) - a more complex version of Ji. What hanfu hairpins are now called. On one end are accessories, and the other is a pin that is inserted into a hair bun. Chai, 钗 (chāi) - also a hairpin quite similar to Zan. Chāi have two split pins on one end. The two pins will get pushed into the hair bun and stay much more securely than one pin in Zan and Ji. Guan, 冠 (guān) - literal translation is "crown". The crown in ancient China looked more like a net hat that encompassed hair buns within. Based on the crown, any sort of hairpin can be used to further secure the hat to the head.   Materials and Purpose Ji are considered the earliest and plainest hair accessories. It takes on the shape of a stick with or without a simple carved out design on one end and a single stick on the other. It is often carved out of a single piece of material or cut out separately then assembled at the end. This accessory is said to exist even…

Historical Background The Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties were the most important period in Chinese history. From the end of the 6th century to the mid-10th century A.D., feudal rule lasted more than 300 years. Tang Dynasty was the most glorious dynasty in Chinese history. It was powerful, materially abundant, and famous in frontiers and overseas. In 581 A.D., Emperor Wen of Sui, Yang Jian seized the Northern Zhou regime and established the Sui Dynasty, and then destroyed Chen and unified ancient China. However, Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty was exacting and profligate, which made the Sui Dynasty last for only 39 years. Since the founding of Li Yuan and the pacification the various forces. Li Shimin succeeded to the throne as Emperor Taizong. During his reign for more than 20 years, logical administration and harmonious people. Historically, this peaceful and prosperous era was called the Governance during the Zhenguan Reign. After that, until ten years of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, the country was prosperous and the people were safe and the society was rich, and historically known as the KaiYuan Period. After the An Lushan Rebellion, the Tang Dynasty changed from prosperity to decline. In 907,…

Hey everyone! College applications have been kicking my ass for the past few months so I've been pretty silent for a while, but I'm finally done—which means more hanfu content for you all to see! For those of you who don’t know me, I’m redsugar, or Tangtang (or a bajillion other variants of red and sugar in multiple languages that people have given to me as nicknames)! I’m a gender fluid Taiwanese-American hanfu designer based in the US. I’ve been part of the Newhanfu community for a couple years now and written extensively about my historical research and designs. Today I’m going to give you all a little summary of the designs modeled in our January 2023 model call outing! This includes five out of my eight 2023 Lunar New Year collection, photographed at the Chinese Cultural Garden in San Jose. Special thanks to all the participants for modeling these samples, and hope you guys all had plenty of fun! Let’s get to it then~ 機杼/JIZHU (modeled by 采蘑菇的小姑娘背着一只大狂猪) First up is Jizhu! This is a late Ming Dynasty four-piece set consisting of a 百迭裙/百迭裙/bai3 die2 qun2/hundred-layered skirt, a 立領衫/立领衫/li4 ling3 shan1/standing collar top, a waist tie, and a 比甲/比甲/bi3…

History Background In 1368, Zhu Yuanzhang has crowned emperor. His regime was established with the name of Hongwu and the whole dynasty was named Ming. In the 14th year of Hongwu, the remaining forces of the Yuan dynasty in Yunnan were pacified and ancient China was finally reunified again. Zhu Yuanzhang abandoned the costume system established in the Yuan Dynasty and adopted the system of the Han and Tang dynasties and tried his best to restore the various rituals of the Han people. From the beginning of the Ming Dynasty to the reign of the second emperor Chengzu, the Ming Dynasty had been quite prosperous, and after Chengzu, Emperor Xuanzong and Emperor Yingzong were still able to maintain prosperity. But since then, due to the eunuchs' disorderly administration and the invasion of pirates, the country had been on the way of declining. In 1644, Wu Sangui opened the Shanhai Pass and led the Qing troops into Beijing to fight against Li Zicheng. And after that the Qing troops entered the Central Plains. The Ming dynasty lasted 227 years from the beginning of the Ming dynasty to the death of Emperor Chongzhen who hanged himself.   Ming Dynasty Makeup Features During…

The rabbit has a positive, kind and transcendent meaning in Chinese culture. According to the ancient Chinese zodiac interpretation, the rabbit is a symbol of resourcefulness and luck, and people have a special fondness for the quirky rabbit. Therefore, the New Year's Eve dressing for the Year of the Rabbit should also reflect the innocent, lovely, witty and lively style.   New Year Hanfu Outfit for Female Compared to the mature dignity of the cross collar hanfu, the straight collar costume is undoubtedly more spirited and playful, with a parallel collar and wide cuffs with a white fluffy edge, which is both warm and beautiful, reminding people unconsciously of a white rabbit hiding in a snowdrift. The two white pompoms on the neckline, whether tied up or naturally drooping, add a touch of girlish sweetness and make the heart grow fonder with just a glance. The bunny pattern on the bottom skirt perfectly fits the rabbit element of the New Year, and the main tone of red makes the whole set overflowing with fire enthusiasm and joyful atmosphere. In terms of color choice, in addition to the common New Year's red, you can also choose many other shades, but all…

The thriving hanfu and its derivative culture are coming back into the public view in a creative, distinct, and diverse way, lending its light and color back to the energetic youth. In this article, follow "THE GREAT SHOKUNIN" and meet Hanfu makeup blogger @Xiao Zhuang (小庄).   Creative Ancient Hanfu Makeup The account @Xiao Zhuang is actually run jointly by two Hanfu enthusiasts, with makeup, appearances, editing and post generally handled by Qing Qing (晴晴), while photography and filming are done by Xiao Zhuang. They have collaborated on over 200 videos, the most popular of which is the series "The Beauty of China's Millennium", which has received nearly 10 million views. In this series, Qing Qing restored the history of the evolution of makeup, hairstyles, accessories, and hanfu clothing of the Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties. Before this, we mostly got a glimpse of ancient women's grooming, makeup and lifestyle from ancient TV dramas, but the style was mostly uniform, lacking in creativity and sophistication. On the contrary, in Xiao Zhuang's video, you can fully experience the changes of women's makeup and costume in different dynasties. Taking the Tang Dynasty makeup of this series as an example, the complete reproduction…

Holliday season is upon us! Many of you may already be shopping for gifts. If you have hanfu lovers amongst your friends and relatives, or if you need to come up with a list of your own to give ideas to your relatives, here are a few inspirations. My choices went to objects that are: versatile, so you can have a few of the item and use them interchangeably hard to make for yourself, so even if the person makes hanfu for themselves, they would be happy to have one ready-made hard to find in stores but available online useful, no matter how many you have   "Mother-child" metal buttons "Mother-child" metal buttons, also know as Zimukou (子母扣). They are so beautiful, there are so many shapes and sizes, and so hard to find in sewing supply stores, especially in Western countries. It adds greatly to the beauty of a Ming dinasty shan or ao, but can also be used on daily wear. Trimmings Especially enbroidered, ancient looking trimmings. They are no longer fashionable for modern sewing supply shops, you can almost only find them online. It adds style to your garment right away, and unless you weave, you cannot…

Winter hanfu dressing wear can probably be summarized as two different types. One is a short lining top + pants and skirt overlay, the other is to rely on a long coat or thick enough outerwear to keep warm. No matter which types is used, matching is the top priority, no one want to become dressed bloated in winter! Follow Hanfu Times to find your winter Hanfu inspiration.   Eye-catching Colors There are many color-matching principles that can be applied in winter hanfu. Clever matching can also make you more brilliant, such as color clash matching. Bright colors can choose peacock green, olive, treasure blue, and other blue and green cool shades. If choose warm colors, it will enlarge the sense of expansion. The middle color can be used as beige, light white, and more natural. The olive color is more suitable for wearing as a jacket, inside with black or khaki. If you wear it inside, it is recommended to add a belt. The lapel jacket + airplane sleeves + two pieces of skirt can be worn as a change of season in autumn and winter. Black with floral patterns, light series of solid colors with white, are bright enough.…

Hey everyone, long time no see! It's been a while and I promise I'm still working on the Song Dynasty sections of Hanfu Unearthed—in the meantime, enjoy this not-so-short cheat sheet to all of the most commonly used fibers and weaves in hanfu, whether historically or in the industry today. Fibers Fibers are the material from which threads are spun to be made into fabric. These include synthetic fibers made in labs or factories by humans, as well as animal fibers that are grown as fur or silk by animals, or plant-based fibers that we harvest from various fibrous plants. Tencel Rising in popularity, especially last summer, tencel is a kind of semi-synthetic fiber made from cellulose, also called lyocell, originally made to imitate silk. Made by dissolving cellulose into pulp and using dry jet-et spinning to reconstitute the fibers, it’s a clean process that creates a kind of synthetic fiber using natural materials: easier to dye than cotton, more breathable than polyester, moisture-wicking, and softer than linen. The one downside of tencel is that it’s easily wrinkled, but its smooth draping quality and breathability make it a first choice for hanfu manufacturers today. Other rayons are also used, but…

It has been twenty years since the revival of hanfu. During this period, some people think that hanfu should be kept in formal wear and not be popularized to daily wear, as modern people already have convenient and customary clothes, so there is no need to change it; others think that daily hanfu costume is the direction and trend of the future development of hanfu. But in fact, since the epidemic, the decrease in hanfu activities and hanfu stages has in fact pushed the development of daily hanfu costumes, and everyday style hanfu has started to become the new popular fashion. Hanfu Shi Dai has compiled a summary of three routes that have emerged for the current everydayization of hanfu.   Style A The first is to follow the traditional hanfu form and change the color scheme, fabric, and matching to create a more fashionable and everyday effect than the traditional classical style hanfu, which also includes some designs that mix and match different styles within the framework of the basic form.       Style B Style B mixes Hanfu with Western-style tailoring clothing. It is more common for a single item of hanfu, such as Ma Mian Qun…

Seeing many people posting beautiful photos and videos of them wearing hanfu on the Internet, you want to try it too, right? Here are some poses you can try.   1. Dynamic photography If you always sit in one place or stand still while taking pictures, your expressions and movements will easily become stiff, and the pictures you take will not look good. At this time, dynamic photography methods had to be adopted, and photographers had to take pictures by rotating a semi-circle. The dynamic photo method is not only rotating, but can also use a more daily walking photo method. Holding some flowers in one hand and a dress in the other, stepping on the grass path, lifting the eyes for a moment, freezing the beautiful moments and leaving behind precious memories. Or choose to take a picture in the garden, stroking the leaves with your hands and twisting slightly to capture the side of the face, is also a good choice.   2. Using props for static photos Usually I always feel a little monotonous when taking pictures, I don't know where to put my hands, and even the whole body and expression is unnatural? At this time,…