One of the most challenging seasons for dressing is undoubtedly autumn and winter. When facing cold weather, how can we cleverly match Hanfu or Han-style fashion, both beautiful and practical, without sacrificing warmth?
In the ancient Chinese civilization, the ancients had already designed and paid attention to the colors, wearing methods, fabrics, and other aspects of winter clothing, forming a systematic traditional dress culture. Today, we can draw inspiration from the wisdom of our ancestors and skillfully apply it to modern winter Hanfu, adding a touch of classical elegance to the overall outfit.
The most important secret about the color and wearing methods of ancient Chinese winter clothing is layering and matching from the inside out. If we take the five colors as the main palette, we generally follow the principle of darker on the outside and lighter on the inside or vice versa. Dark colors such as pomegranate red, deep purple, dark green, jet black, and yellowish brown are suitable for outerwear, while lighter colors such as rosy red, sky blue, emerald green, charcoal gray, and apricot yellow are suitable for the inner layers.
If you want a more distinctive look, you can also choose more vibrant colors for the outerwear, such as golden yellow or deep purple. This color combination can create a visually warm and layered effect. Following these matching rules, both men's and women's clothing can have infinite possibilities.
When it comes to fabric selection, lightweight and warm materials such as cashmere, wool, mink fur, and corduroy are best suited for making winter Hanfu outerwear. For the inner layers, smooth fabrics like leather, silk, and blended cotton and linen are preferred, as they provide a closer fit and better insulation. Looking at the different styles of Hanfu from different historical periods, we can summarize several representative winter outfits.
01 Han Dynasty
The typical representative of the Han Dynasty is the Zhiju robe, which is very similar to modern coats. Based on the design of the Zhiju robe, we can create outerwear by making it shorter or longer. Pairing it with black or brown boots and a high-necked dress or trousers on the inside can easily cope with cold weather.
02 Tang Dynasty
In the Tang Dynasty, the main style was a wide-necked top with a high-necked inner layer, worn with knee-length skirts for a better layering effect. Men wore trousers as the bottom. The color palette was mainly composed of fresh and elegant light colors like apricot yellow and sky blue. The finishing touch was a pair of exquisite white low boots.
03 Song Dynasty
In the Song Dynasty, the combination of short jackets, overlapping front-opening jackets, and bell sleeves was popular. They were paired with knee-length skirts (men could wear fashion pants).
For the inner layers, we can choose cross-collar or high-necked jackets. The overall color scheme mainly consisted of deep and elegant morandi colors such as charcoal gray and indigo blue, giving a refined and clean look. Shoes were mostly single shoes or medium-heeled boots, matching the clothing colors or forming a refreshing contrast with lighter shades.
04 Ming Dynasty
The Ming Dynasty was characterized by its distinctive stand-up or cross-collar style. Outerwear included square-collared jackets or fur coats, paired with horse-face skirts/pants. The most eye-catching color combinations were bright red and dark yellow, while the neutral colors were off-white and blackish gray. It is recommended to have the horse-face skirt reach the ankles, making it suitable for pairing with small leather shoes or boots.
In addition to the layered overall look, accessories for winter Hanfu are equally important. A beautifully patterned long scarf or a stylish fur collar, when worn on the outerwear or trousers, can easily enhance the overall look. The simple application of Han elements is also suitable for everyday casual outfit combinations, greatly elevating the overall temperament.
Although the cold winter days are short, Hanfu's vibrant colors can bring infinite warmth and joy. I sincerely hope that you can find the most suitable winter Hanfu outfit that warms both your body and soul.
The specific recommendations for the colors, fabrics, and wearing methods of winter Hanfu outfits mentioned above are mainly based on and expanded from the original texts found in the Hanfu media, Hanfu Time. I would like to express my heartfelt thanks to Hanfu Time for sharing their professional knowledge of Hanfu from their unique perspective, for the enjoyment of readers.