This article focuses on the changes in the popularity of traditional Chinese men’s clothing from the Ming and Qing dynasties to the early Republic of China.
The early Ming dynasty clothing continued the style of the Yuan dynasty, men’s clothing in addition to Zhishen (直身), but also have Changshan (长衫) style. At this time the Daopao (道袍) has not yet formed, because the Changshan pleated structure on both sides, inferred that may be the Daopao predecessor.
The prototype of the Yisan (曳撒) came from the Yuan Dynasty, and the sleeve shape and silhouette gradually changed in the Ming Dynasty, and developed an outer hem structure, which was one of the common styles of Bianfu (便服)/army clothing or Jifu (吉服) in the Ming Dynasty.
The more significant change in the mid-Ming men’s clothing is the gradual widening of the sleeve type, the structure of the outer hem is also different from the initial period.
Late Ming dynasty men’s clothing popular with the Daopao, the initial sleeve type for the bias to straight sleeves, with the structure of the Shoumei (收袂).
At the end of the Ming Dynasty, the robe has developed into wide sleeves, and the structure of the inner and outer hem has also changed, the most obvious one being the pointed outer hem that developed upward.
Daofu (道服) clothing in the late Ming also belongs to one of the popular styles, and whether there is any correlation with the Song Dynasty Daofu clothing is still in the verification.
Early Qing dynasty by the influence of the Qing court political force, adult men’s clothing more than changed to Manchurian style, “clothes without a collar” is the Shan (衫, shirt), Pao (袍, robe), Gua (褂, coat) of the distinctive features. Shaved head and braid, the initial braid is still small.
To modern times, the Paogua (袍褂) structure continues the late Qing Dynasty, wearing rules by the Republic of China period of customary influence, currently more in the ritual occasions, arts, and cultural performance activities.
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Great article, thanks!. However, these cloths seems to be for city dwellers and literates. Do we have information about the common working people, the fighter, the street performers, etc?
this is really helpful information thank you!