Netizens are raising questions: Is Chen Duling's costume in Noble Lady too conservative? New stills from Noble Lady have emerged, once again presenting the high - collar, vertical - front Hanfu. Some netizens have commented that Ming - style Hanfu seems overly conservative, as it almost entirely covers the body.
Looking back at the history of Chinese clothing, during the mid - to - late Ming Dynasty, high collars became a popular choice among the nobility. Some netizens have noted that Ming - style high collars can make the neck appear shorter, the face rounder, and add an aged look. As a result, many people tend to prefer the more widely flattering Tang - style Hanfu. However, this actually shows a misunderstanding of traditional Ming - style Hanfu. After all, delicate beauty is one form of aesthetics, while elegance and dignity are another.
The development of high collars in the Ming Dynasty was not simply about 'conservatism'. At that time, China was experiencing the Little Ice Age, which led to a sudden drop in temperature. Consequently, the clothing culture changed to adapt to the weather. Ming - style high collars evolved from the cross - collar and parallel - front structures, giving rise to slanted and vertical - front designs. There were both long and short styles, though short high - collar slanted - front jackets are relatively rare in surviving artifacts. These high - collar garments were often paired with metal clasps and could be worn with Mamian skirts or pleated skirts.
The fabrics used for Ming - style Hanfu varied from simple to luxurious, with satin being commonly used. Techniques such as Zhuanghua, gold and silver weaving, and embroidery were often applied. On the chest, back, and shoulders, there were 'cloud - collar' patterns inspired by the shape of persimmon calyx. This was an innovative layout using cloud - collar motifs. Complementing these were the 'Tongxiulan' (sleeve bands extending from the shoulders to the cuffs) and the 'Xilan' (knee bands at the lower front and back hems). These auspicious garments were also known as Tongxiu robes or Xilan robes. Noblewomen in the Ming Dynasty often adorned their heads with Di ji (a type of hairpiece) and golden hair accessories, which enhanced their noble aura.
Moreover, Ming - style high collars were not always very 'tall'. Their height could be adjusted according to personal preference, and they could even be folded, similar to the collars of modern shirts, offering a variety of styling options. Of course, the Ming Dynasty's clothing styles were not limited to high collars. There were also round collars, square collars, as well as the ever - popular cross - collars and parallel - front styles. These could be layered, demonstrating the versatility of clothing combinations. Although they may seem simple, there were numerous variations.
The diversity of sleeves also gave Ming - style clothing its unique charm. In daily life, people could wear narrow sleeves or pipa sleeves with curved hems. For ceremonial occasions, wide sleeves were more appropriate. The designs often included 'Shouqu' (stitched stops at the sleeve openings), which prevented the sleeves from slipping and allowed small items to be stored inside. This combined formal aesthetics with practicality, and different sleeve styles could meet the needs of different occasions.
Earlier stills of Chen Duling and other cast members in Noble Lady showed their Ming - style Hanfu outfits. It can be seen that it's not that Ming - style Hanfu is conservative; rather, we are more familiar with the styles of the Song and Tang Dynasties. Perhaps we should appreciate the distinct charm of Ming fashion from another perspective - it has its own beauty. Some netizens have also questioned whether Noble Lady is 'too covered up'. The show's release has been continuously delayed without any updates, leaving doubts about whether it can premiere in March.
