The Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers painting has inspired numerous costume dramas, including Dream of Splendor, National Beauty and Fragrance, and Peaceful Year. But how accurate are these adaptations? Let’s delve into the authentic portrayal of court ladies from the Five Dynasties period.
The Iconic Hairstyle and Its Origins
The hairstyle seen in these dramas is inspired by the noblewomen depicted in Zhou Fang’s (disputed authorship) Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers. Characterized by towering buns adorned with hairpins and floral decorations, it exudes elegance. However, the clothing patterns and styles suggest a late Tang or Five Dynasties origin rather than the Tang Dynasty.
Floral Patterns: Tang vs. Five Dynasties
There’s a noticeable difference between the floral patterns of the High Tang and late Tang/Five Dynasties. High Tang designs feature clustered, cohesive flowers, while late Tang/Five Dynasties styles are more scattered with paired flowers and leaves. This distinction helps date the painting to the late Tang or later.
The Hairpin Flower Controversy
Shen Congwen speculated that the prominent hairpin flowers might have been added by Song Dynasty artists. The painting shows women with loose, cloud – like hair adorned with golden hairpins, making the addition of large floral decorations seem out of place. Archaeological findings, such as figurines and murals, show that court ladies with towering buns typically wore simple hairpins without flowers.
Five Dynasties Fashion: The Hezi and Daxiushan
The Hezi (a type of bodice) paired with Daxiushan (wide – sleeved robes) was the quintessential attire for noblewomen during the Five Dynasties. While the exact structure of the Hezi skirt remains debated, it was undoubtedly a symbol of high status.
Dramas and Historical Accuracy
Among the three dramas, Dream of Splendor and Peaceful Year align more closely with historical depictions, while National Beauty and Fragrance leans towards the High Tang aesthetic. The exaggerated floral decorations in some adaptations, however, create an unbalanced look, deviating from historical accuracy.
While dramas need not be entirely accurate, they play a crucial role in educating the public about historical fashion. The Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers painting, currently dated to the Tang Dynasty by the Liaoning Provincial Museum, likely belongs to the Five Dynasties or Song period. Understanding and appreciating these nuances is key to honoring our cultural heritage.
