Yong'an Dream

An online discussion has erupted around the distinctive headwear worn by actor Xu Zhengxi (徐正溪) in the historical drama Yong'an Dream (永安梦). Instead of the typical ornate crowns, his character sports a cap with what appear to be two small, curious eyes peeking out from the top. This unique design has captivated viewers, with many joking that only he could carry off such a peculiar look. The answer to this sartorial mystery lies not in a costume designer's whim, but deep within the fashion history of ancient China. This headpiece is a gateway to understanding the practicalities and social codes of attire during a dynamic period in Chinese history. The Hat's True Identity The cap is known as a Pingjin Ze (平巾帻). A Ze was a type of informal cap worn under more formal headpieces, and its use dates back to the Han Dynasty. It became particularly popular from the Wei and Jin periods through the Sui and Tang dynasties, frequently worn by military officials. The two horizontal protrusions that resemble eyes are not decorative. They are the ends of a horizontal hairpin called a Zan Dao (簪导), which was used to secure the cap firmly to the wearer's hair.…