Nanjing elevates its fashion ambitions with the appointment of Zhang Zhaoda (张肇达), a foundational figure in Chinese design, as Honorary Chairman for its 2025 International Fashion Week. His participation signals a strategic push to position Nanjing at the forefront of global fashion dialogue.
Beyond a ceremonial role, Zhang will headline the opening gala with his iconic brand MARK CHEUNG, leveraging his four-decade legacy bridging Eastern aesthetics and international runways. This collaboration aims to transform Nanjing from a historical gem into a dynamic nexus for luxury commerce, cultural innovation, and trendsetting creativity.
Design Philosophy Redefined
Zhang Zhaoda’s journey began when Chinese design was virtually absent from global stages. His early 1980s collections introduced a nuanced equilibrium between market viability and artistic expression. The MARK CHEUNG label, renowned for its bias-cut silhouettes and subdued palettes, demonstrated that tradition could converse fluently with modernity. His approach earned him China’s inaugural Golden Top Award and UNESCO recognition.
Zhang’s work consistently avoids cliched cultural symbols. Instead, he extracts abstract principles from Chinese art—like the fluidity of ink wash paintings or the structural logic of Ming furniture—translating them into contemporary garments. This intellectual rigor established him as a translator of heritage rather than a revivalist. His New York and Beijing shows proved Chinese design could command global attention on its own terms.
For Nanjing, Zhang represents more than prestige; he embodies a design ethos where heritage fuels innovation. His curatorial vision for the Fashion Week prioritizes collections that reinterpret Nanjing’s six-dynasty artistic legacy through cutting-edge techniques. This rejects superficial fusion, demanding depth from participating designers.
Nanjing’s Strategic Vision
Executive Chairperson Zou Zihan emphasizes the appointment’s practical impact: attracting investment, luxury brands, and international buyers. Nanjing targets affluent consumers across Jiangsu province while creating export pathways for local designers. The city’s rich textile history and manufacturing capabilities provide a tangible foundation for this growth, moving beyond symbolic gestures.
The Fashion Week operates as an economic catalyst. Its restructured business sessions connect international labels with Chinese distributors and regional manufacturers. Pop-up retail experiences alongside runway shows enable immediate consumer engagement, creating a seamless loop between exhibition and transaction. This model addresses a key industry gap in China’s fashion ecosystem.
Beyond commerce, Zou stresses cultural agency. The initiative seeks to define a distinct aesthetic language rooted in Nanjing’s identity—distinct from Shanghai’s commercial flair or Beijing’s political symbolism. Collaborations between global creatives and Nanjing’s museums and craftspeople aim to generate authentic narratives, not derivative trends.
Building a Three-Dimensional Ecosystem
Nanjing’s blueprint rests on integrated pillars: global resource aggregation, cultural product innovation, and trend influence. The first pillar establishes physical and digital platforms for brands, buyers, and media. Permanent showrooms post-event ensure sustained engagement, moving beyond the typical “pop-up” ephemerality of fashion weeks.
The second pillar focuses on product development. Design incubators partner emerging talents with Nanjing’s jacquard weavers and embroidery masters. Projects might involve deconstructing Ming dynasty motifs for sustainable streetwear or using AI to generate patterns from palace murals. This directly supports national policies promoting cultural industries and design-driven manufacturing upgrades.
Trend creation forms the third pillar. Through curated exhibitions, academic symposia on fashion anthropology, and city-wide installations, the event aims to spark conversations extending beyond garments. The revamped award system highlights innovations merging social responsibility with design excellence, like zero-waste production or community-based artisan collaborations.
Reshaping Global Fashion Geography
Zhang Zhaoda views Nanjing’s move as pivotal for China’s broader fashion ascendancy. "Global recognition requires platforms with curatorial authority and cultural specificity," he notes. Positioning Nanjing as a thoughtful counterpoint to established capitals challenges the centralized dominance of Paris or Milan, suggesting a more polycentric future.
The 2025 Fashion Week’s legacy will be measured by tangible outcomes: export contracts signed for local brands, international design studios establishing Nanjing branches, or educational partnerships fostering the next generation. It signifies a maturation from spectacle to ecosystem building.
Zhang’s opening collection, inspired by Nanjing’s stone city walls and silk road history, is anticipated as a manifesto. It will likely demonstrate how material research and historical depth can inform truly global luxury. His presence assures the world that Nanjing’s ambition is backed by unparalleled creative credibility. The city isn’t merely hosting an event; it’s scripting a new chapter in fashion’s global narrative.
