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The Royal Collar: How a Song Dynasty Neckpiece Ruled the Court
In the historical drama Serenade of Peaceful Joy (清平乐), a peculiar white neckpiece adorns the robes of officials, instantly capturing the modern viewer's eye. To contemporary audiences, it might resemble an odd fashion accessory or even a pet's collar. But this item, far from mere decoration, was a powerful instrument of state authority. Its correct name is the Fangxin Quling (方心曲领), and its story is one of rigid hierarchy, cosmic symbolism, and physical discipline within the imperial system. A Mark of Rank Not every official in the Song Dynasty could wear the Fangxin Quling. Its privilege was reserved by law for those of the seventh rank and above, specifically those entitled to wear a certain type of ceremonial undergarment. This regulation, documented in texts like the Book of Sui (隋书·礼仪志七), made it a clear, visual demarcation between high-ranking central bureaucrats and lower-level local magistrates. It was a badge of inclusion within the empire's most powerful administrative circle. This was not a Song invention. The collar's institutional origins can be traced back to the Sui and Tang dynasties, evolving from more complex ceremonial attire. The Song court fully standardized and codified its use, embedding it firmly within the formal court robe…
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