In the TV series Kill My Sins, Chen Jin portrays a sage inspired by Wu Zetian, but with minimal makeup and no elaborate hairstyles. Netizens have commented: So even emperors had no appearance anxiety! Traditionally, Wu Zetian has been depicted as a glamorous and noble figure in films and TV shows. Actresses like Liu Xiaoqing, Gui Yalei, Lü Zhong, Liu Jialing, and Fan Bingbing have all played her, either with towering hairdos adorned with ornate hairpins or, like Chen Jin, in simple round-collared robes and futou hats, exuding authority without effort.
The Historical Appearance of Wu Zetian
Wu Zetian was known for her beauty, but historical records describe her as having a square forehead and broad cheeks (fang e guang yi). According to the New Book of Tang, her daughter Princess Taiping shared these features, leading Wu Zetian to remark that her daughter resembled her. This look, sometimes exaggerated with sharp-angled sideburns, resembles what we now call a square-round face.
Her image remains enigmatic. Most later depictions show her in cross-collared or round-collared robes, typical of the Tang Dynasty, paired with a fangxin quling neckpiece and a diguang crown. However, these portrayals often mix contemporary fashion elements, making them unreliable. The most accurate representation comes from Yan Liben’s Portraits of Emperors, where she wears a mianfu ceremonial robe and crown—a look rarely replicated in modern media.
Wu Zetian’s Fashion Choices
As a young woman, Wu Zetian was obsessed with beauty, even preserving her skincare recipes for public use. After becoming empress, she relied more on her charisma to command respect. In her leisure time, fashion during her reign celebrated independence and confidence. Women wore towering wigs, bold makeup, and huadian (floral forehead decorations). Their outfits featured intricate designs, like tanling sleeveless vests and striped skirts, or simpler styles with round-collared robes and futou hats.
Every era reimagines Wu Zetian differently. Which version resonates with you? Share your thoughts in the comments.
