Set against the backdrop of Ming Dynasty China, Legend of Zang Hai (藏海传) captivates audiences not only with its intricate plot but also with its meticulous recreation of historical attire. Actor Xiao Zhan’s (肖战) portrayal of Zang Hai—a scholar navigating political intrigue—is elevated by costumes that visually chart his evolution from obscurity to prominence. Each garment, grounded in Ming Dynasty dress codes, serves as a silent narrator of status, ambition, and cultural identity.
The Period of Civilians
Zang Hai’s early scenes feature the straight robe (Zhiduo), a garment emblematic of Ming-era scholars and commoners. This cross-collared, side-slit robe, often belted at the waist, reflected a balance of practicality and modesty. Xiao Zhan’s turquoise-hued version, inspired by the turquoise damask robe housed in the Confucius Museum, subtly elevates the basic design with fine silk, hinting at Zang Hai’s latent potential—the choice of color, reminiscent of scholars’ inkstones, bridges humility and intellectual aspiration.
As Zang Hai enters scholarly circles, his attire shifts to the scholar’s gown. Distinguished by a round collar and a horizontal seam at the knees—a Ming-era nod to ancient Confucian dress—this robe signifies his formal entry into the literati class. Historical texts, such as Sancai Tuhui (三才图会), depict its evolution, noting wider collars and draped lapels in later periods. Here, costume designers use structured tailoring to mirror Zang Hai’s disciplined pursuit of knowledge.
The precision of these costumes avoids theatrical flair. Fabric textures—rough hemp for peasants, refined brocade for tutors—visually reinforce social stratification. Zang Hai’s gradual sartorial refinement parallels his academic diligence, demonstrating that in Ming society, even one's attire could serve as a curriculum vitae.
Chief Steward of the Marquis's Mansion
Appointed as a provincial advisor, Zang Hai adopts the crane-feather cloak (Changyi). Historically worn by elites like the Jin Dynasty’s Wang Gong, this garment features a straight collar, symmetrical broad sleeves, and a seamless lower hem. Its flowing silhouette, captured in Song artist Huizong’s Listening to the Qin by Zhao Ji (赵佶听琴图), conveys authority without aggression—ideal for a strategist shaping events from the shadows.
Designers reinterpret this cloak in muted indigo, avoiding ostentation while emphasizing its functional elegance. The absence of side slits (uncommon in civilian wear) underscores its ceremonial purpose. As Zang Hai navigates court politics, the cloak becomes his armor: imposing yet intellectually disarming.
Historical advisors like Feng Congwu (冯从吾) and Dai Xin (戴昕) likely wore similar attire. Their documented roles—academic chancellor and reformist magistrate—reflect Zang Hai’s trajectory. The costume’s evolution here is psychological: fabric weight increases, drapes sharpen, and every fold hints at calculated moves.
Chief Steward of the Marquis's Estate
Zang Hai’s ascent to Imperial Astronomer and Minister of Works culminates in the rank badge robe (Bufu). This Ming bureaucratic uniform features square mandarin squares embroidered with avian or animal motifs denoting position. As the Ming Hui Dian (世说新语.企羡) records, civil officials wore birds (cranes for first-rank); military wore beasts (qilins for nobles).
Xiao Zhan’s robe displays a white crane—reserved for top-tier scholars—stitched onto deep scarlet silk. The crane’s outstretched wings, symbolizing transcendence of petty politics, contrast with the robe’s rigid structure. This juxtaposition embodies Zang Hai’s conflict: elevated status versus institutional constraints.
Unlike earlier costumes, the Bufu’s (补服) power lies in codified imagery. Every thread adheres to Ming sumptuary laws, where a misplaced motif could imply treason. When Zang Hai adjusts his sash before pivotal meetings, the gesture isn’t vanity—it’s survival.
Legend of Zang Hai weaponizes wardrobe. Zang Hai’s robes—from hemp to crane-embroidered silk—map ambition through texture and hue. In an era where clothing dictated destiny, these costumes aren’t embellishments; they’re the script.
Costume Design in Legend of Zang Hai
Building upon the established visual language, the costumes further immerse audiences in the film’s mythical seafaring world. Designer masterfully blended ancient maritime motifs with ethereal fantasy elements, using layered fabrics to evoke ocean currents and bioluminescent depths. The antagonist’s crew wears distorted versions of traditional sailor garb, reflecting their corrupted purpose. These choices reinforce character arcs and cultural lore through texture and silhouette, transforming costumes into silent storytellers. Velez’s collaboration with marine biologists ensured ecological authenticity, grounding fantasy in tangible wonder.
