The Lychees of Chang'an (长安的荔枝), a captivating drama illuminating the Tang Dynasty's intricate world, offers more than a tale of imperial logistics. Beyond the political intrigue surrounding transporting fresh lychees, it vividly portrays how people navigated the sweltering heat, particularly in the southern Lingnan region. The show's meticulous costume design shatters the misconception that historical attire couldn't be practical for summer, revealing ingenious cooling adaptations woven into the fabric of Tang life. This ancient wisdom provides surprising inspiration for comfortable and elegant summer wear today.
Lingnan's Lightweight Look
Upon arriving in the humid south, protagonist Li Shande (李善德) swiftly adapts his attire. The heavy layers of Chang'an are shed for open sandals and trousers rolled up to the knees. Local officials like the Prefect favor the Banbi (半臂), a quintessential Tang summer garment: a short-sleeved, waist-length top worn over a thin inner layer, often with a relaxed collar or even open front, allowing maximum airflow. Servants constantly wield woven palm fans, a practical necessity. This depiction is grounded in historical reality, reflecting adaptations necessary for Lingnan's tropical climate.
Women in Lingnan are often seen in the Qixiong Shanqun (齐胸衫裙). This ensemble typically featured a high-waisted skirt paired with a light, often sheer, blouse and sometimes a draped shawl. The emphasis was on lightweight layers and breathability. Men engaged in physical labor favored simple, open-necked tunics made from thin, absorbent fabrics like hemp or ramie, far more practical than the wide-sleeved robes common in the cooler capital.
Costume designers drew extensively from historical records, ensuring colors leaned towards cooling light shades, as noted in Tang texts. Practical accessories like woven bamboo sun hats offered shade without trapping heat, while palm fans were ubiquitous tools for creating a breeze and deterring insects.
Ancient Cooling Wisdom
The Tang people's approach to beating the heat extended far beyond clothing. Sophisticated systems existed for managing temperature and comfort. For centuries, including the Tang, ice harvesting in winter for summer use was a well-established practice. The drama subtly alludes to this, but archaeological finds like the Zeng Houyi (曾侯乙) Bronze Jian Fou offer concrete proof. This remarkable 2400-year-old artifact, essentially an ancient refrigerator, consisted of an outer container holding ice and an inner vessel for cooling wine or food.
Similarly intricate objects like the Zeng Houyi Zun Pan served the same purpose for chilling beverages. These inventions highlight a deep understanding of thermal dynamics for practical comfort.
Diet also played a crucial role. Historical records and tomb paintings suggest the Tang enjoyed frozen delicacies. Evidence points to Sushan (酥山), a sophisticated dessert made by melting dairy products like cream or butter, sweetening them with honey or sugar, and then freezing the mixture over ice – essentially an early form of ice cream.
Literary descriptions praise its rich, textured appearance. Social customs adapted too. Official documents from Dunhuang reveal that during the hottest "Fu days" of summer, Tang officials were granted a "high-temperature holiday," a remarkably modern concept allowing them to seek cooler pursuits like bathing in rivers or retreating to mountain temples.
For nighttime comfort, ingenious solutions emerged. Porcelain pillows, like the Yuzhen (玉枕) mentioned in poetry, remained cool to the touch. The Zhufuren (竹夫人) or "bamboo wife," a hollow, cylindrical frame woven from bamboo strips, was a popular bed companion. Its open structure allowed air to circulate, and it could be hugged, leaned against, or used to support limbs, providing a cooling effect throughout the night. Herbs or flowers placed inside added a soothing fragrance.
Modern Hanfu for Summer Days
The Lychees of Chang'an vividly demonstrates that traditional Chinese clothing possesses inherent solutions for summer wear. The key lies in selecting appropriate styles and materials, mirroring the pragmatic choices of the Lingnan residents. Fabrics are paramount. Natural fibers like breathable ramie, lightweight linen, smooth silk, and high-quality cotton offer excellent moisture-wicking properties and airflow. Avoid heavy brocades or densely woven synthetics.
Look to historical summer styles for inspiration. The Banbi is a perfect starting point – its short sleeves and shorter length are inherently cooler than full robes. The layered approach of the Qixiong Shanqun allows for versatility; a sheer blouse over a simple under dress provides coverage while maximizing ventilation. Simple cross-collar tops made from thin linen or cotton are excellent alternatives to multi-layered jackets. Consider shorter skirts or trousers for practicality and comfort in high heat. Accessories like wide-brimmed bamboo hats and handheld fans aren't just stylish nods to history; they are genuinely effective cooling tools.
The ingenuity displayed by the Tang Dynasty in adapting to seasonal challenges, from the tailored clothing of Lingnan to the sophisticated ice technology enjoyed by the elite, offers timeless lessons. The Lychees of Chang'an brings this practical elegance to life. It proves that Hanfu is not confined to ceremonial wear or cooler seasons; it can be a viable, comfortable, and deeply stylish choice for summer, rooted in a rich heritage of adaptations to nature's rhythms. Embracing these historical cooling secrets allows us to connect with the past while staying comfortable in the present heat.
