In the Tang Dynasty, it was considered outdated for women not to wear large flowers in their hair. Today, who would dare to wear such big, red flowers? The Tang people's preference for peony hairpins was inseparable from their love for peonies. Because peonies were sufficiently luxurious and gorgeous, and some rare varieties were even more precious, it was necessary to wear a whole flower to display one's status. Moreover, after wearing a peony, other flowers could not be worn, hence the popular custom of wearing a single large flower on the head. Additionally, the Tang Dynasty's "big head" hairstyle left some blank space, making a large flower appear less "flashy."
The most famous example is the "Court Ladies Wearing Flowers" painting, which perfectly illustrates this adornment. This custom of wearing flowers reached its fashion peak during the High Tang period. However, as peonies were not easy to obtain, women also adorned their hair with lotus flowers, crabapple flowers, gardenias, and peonies as symbols of wealth and status. Not only women but also men wore flowers, often on their turbans. Some opted for modest small flowers, while others flaunted large blooms.
How much did the Tang people love peonies? Every late spring, nobles competed to purchase peonies. Perhaps because of this love, rare varieties were worth a fortune. According to "Supplement to the History of Tang," "For over thirty years, the nobles of the capital have revered peonies. Every late spring, carriages and horses go wild, and those who do not indulge are ashamed. Golden summons are issued to plant peonies outside palaces and temples for profit, with some plants worth tens of thousands."
Why did the Tang people love peonies?
Peonies are indeed beautiful, but among spring flowers, why did peonies stand out? It was largely due to the influence of the nobility. Rulers like Wu Zetian and Emperor Xuanzong of Tang had a special fondness for peonies, setting a trend that spread from the aristocracy to commoners. Another reason was the high price and variety of peonies, which symbolized noble status. Poets further elevated peonies' reputation, calling them the "national beauty" and "the first fragrance under heaven." If a poet didn't write about peonies, they were considered outdated.
It's worth noting that peonies and peonies (芍药) are easily confused. The main difference is that peonies are woody, while peonies (芍药) are herbaceous. Peony stems are harder, and their leaves are rounder. Of course, peonies (芍药) are also lovely, as the poem says, "Peonies (芍药) bask in spring's favor, never envying peonies."
But peonies are seasonal, so what did people do when they couldn't wear fresh flowers? They made flower crowns! For example, in "Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk" and "Ladies with Floral Hairpins," noblewomen wore crowns made of layered flower petals, creating a lavish look.
The Tang custom of wearing flowers influenced the Song Dynasty, though the Song preferred smaller, more delicate flowers. If the Tang style was opulent, the Song style was elegant and refined. Today, we can still see traces of this fashion in customs like Fujian's "flower hairpin" tradition. Learning fashion from our ancestors never goes out of style!
