History & Culture

Have you've ever wondered what an ancient Chinese scholarly person's costume looked like? In this issue, let's follow Hanfu Culture Society and take a look at one of the Chinese traditional costumes, Lanshan (襕衫, lán shān), a Hanfu costume made especially for scholars. [Structure and History] In the history of ancient Chinese traditional costume, there is a kind of long garment that is cut in one piece at the top and bottom (Tongcai, 通裁) and has a Hanglan (横襕, a seam at the Lanshan's knee) at the hem, which is called "Lanshan". Lanshan is based on the ancient Shenyi Zhi (深衣制), with the Shenyi waistline moved down to the hem, and Henglan added near the knee. The system of the upper Yi and lower Chang was followed in ancient times, and the ritual system was made to symbolize the ancient people's respect for the world and the construction of order. Lanshan began to appear in the Northern dynasty and developed and became more standardized in the Tang dynasty. During the Tang Dynasty, it absorbed the northern dynasty costume system and changed the collar shape from cross collar to round collar and the sleeve style from big sleeves to narrow sleeves.…

In ancient China, women's headwear was very gorgeous, and in addition to gold and silver jewelry, beautiful flowers were often worn as accessories. In the Song Dynasty, from the court down to the folk, both men and women loved flower hairpins. In this article, let's explore the history of traditional Chinese flower hairpins.   Origin of Flower hairpins The earliest record of the custom of flower pinning is from the period of Emperor Gaozu of Han, in which Lu Jia wrote in his "Nan Yue Xing Ji" that women in the Lingnan region liked to wear jasmine flowers as hairpins. During the Sui, Tang, and Five Dynasties period, flower hairpin was very popular among the Central Plains. At this time, society was open, people pursued fashion and novelty, and there was a wide variety of clothing and accessories, including flower pins. In the painting "Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers", we can see that the ladies are wearing peonies, lotus, hydrangea, and other flowers in their hair, which has a unique flavor. The Tang Dynasty also featured men wearing flower hairpins, and the emperor often rewarded officials and scholars with flowers. In the Song Dynasty, the custom of flower…

We often see in Chinese TV dramas or movies scenes of the emperor and his ministers discussing political affairs together (called Shangchao, 上朝), with the ministers standing or kneeling opposite the emperor in order of rank, dressed in tidy clothes (Chaofu). So, what is so special about the ministers' clothing? And are the different eras of Chaofu the same? What is the Chaofu? Name: Chaofu (朝服, cháo fú) Alias: Jufu (具服) Function: used at major ceremonies Succession and change: from Zhou to Ming dynasties Before the Zhou Dynasty, Chinese clothing was mainly made in one form, the upper Yi (衣) and the lower Chang (裳) system. The Book of Rites - Yuzao (礼记·玉藻, a chapter describing the ritual) recorded that "Chao Xuanduan (玄端), Xi Shenyi (深衣)", meaning that ministers were required to wear Xuanduan in the morning to attend the Shangchao, while worn Shenyi at home in the evening. The style and development of Chaofu in different dynasties The earliest Chaofu - Pibian Fu Judging from the literature, there were Chaofu as early as in the Zhou Dynasty. The first Chaofu was the Pibian Fu (皮弁服, pí biàn fú), which was made of fine white cloth, and the Yi and…

The ancient armor is to some extent equivalent to the present military uniforms, which is the image of an army and therefore must be decorated. The decoration actually works in two ways, on the one hand, it is to show the good image of the mighty and on the other hand, it is to protect the armor from erosion. Leather armor is easy to rot and iron armor is easy to rust, both need to be protected by some decorative methods. The main methods of Chinese armor decoration are as follows.   Paint, coloring Before Han and Wei either the leather armor or the iron armor, the armor pieces are painted, and repeatedly painted with multi-layer paint. Most of the Warring States' leather armors was black, according to the painted traces of terracotta warriors and horses, and the armor of the Qin Dynasty was mostly black. Many written records of the Han Dynasty armor are called Xuanjia (玄甲, black armor), and the armors of painted warrior figurines are also painted black. The color of black is a bit monotonous, so there is the idea of applying gold and silver pieces on the armor for decoration and painting at the same…

The desire to look attractive is universal. Since ancient times, the pursuit of beauty has never stopped. Throughout traditional Chinese makeup history, not only women, but also men love beauty, and some men even know more about makeup than women, and there are many of them who are the best. The earliest archaeological discovery of makeup tools was used by men. Hubei Zaoyang Jiu Lien Dun No. 1 Chu tomb unearthed "portable" makeup box, the box is divided into bronze mirror, wooden comb, scraper, powder box, and small wooden comb. Men's make-up, although not as elaborate as women's, but their own pursuit. Today, we will introduce how men makeup in different periods in ancient times.   Qin and Han Dynasties During the Qin and Han dynasties, men already began to pay attention to the elaboration of hair ornaments and clothing, like the complex and diverse hair-binding rituals of the Qin dynasty, which made it easy to distinguish the status and rank of each person in the way of hair-binding. In the Han Dynasty, many male tombs were also buried with abundant make-up appliances. In the Han Dynasty, it was recorded in the book "Han Shu • Ning Xing Zhuan (汉书•佞幸传)"…

The caves with undulating heights and depths are truly spectacular; the exquisitely crafted statues are vivid and lifelike; the colorful and dazzling murals. For a thousand years, time has silently passed over this desert, proclaiming to the world the former prosperity and bustle of this place. Among them, murals are the most widespread and deeply ingrained art in Dunhuang. Dunhuang, known as the "Great Gallery in the Desert," has 735 caves, more than 2,400 colored sculptures, and over 45,000 square meters of murals. These precious works of human civilization include portraits of Buddha, stories of Buddha's life, myths and legends, Buddhist historical events, and Buddhist scriptures. Despite enduring wind and frost, these brightly colored murals still radiate their brilliance. To appreciate the beauty of Dunhuang, one must learn to understand the rich world within the murals. The following introductory guide to Dunhuang murals from "Art Culture China" will present the most beautiful side of Dunhuang to you.   Costumes in Dunhuang Murals In the Dunhuang murals, there is a group of people who believe in Buddhism and funded the excavation of the caves. They not only funded the painting of Buddhist themes but also depicted their own popular ideas and…

Vocabulary Moon-shaped fan; 团扇 (tuánshàn). Also called 宫扇(gōng shàn), 纨扇 (wánshàn), 合欢扇 (héhuān shàn), a fan that is made from silks, embroideries, golds, beads, etc. later on into the period.  Barrier fan; 障扇 (zhàng shàn) - one of the earliest version of fan from ancestors. Made with pheasant’s feathers and has a long handle. Also known as 长扇 (Chǎng shàn)、掌扇 (zhǎng shàn)、五明扇 (wǔ míng shàn). It is under the category of moon-shaped fan (团扇). Imperial carriage; 辇 (niǎn). Also known as chariot. This is the earlier versions of traveling vehicles primarily used by prestigious people for ceremonial processes, imperial tours, and any other formal occasions. The usage of this is closely related to imperial court instead of public, such as for emperor, queen’s mother, empress, and imperial concubines. These types of carriage are still man-drawn, and are made of simple designs with either a cushion or a chair for the individual seating on it.   History of Tuanshan The moon-shaped fan, also known as 团扇 (tuánshàn), is a traditional handicraft tool of the Han people from ancient China. It consists of four main components: the fan's frame, handles (usually short in length), the fan's surface (made of semi-transparent or opaque…

Since the Chinoiserie style became very popular, Dunhuang culture has naturally become one of the focuses. Many Chinese actresses and hanfu models have tried the Dunhuang flying apsaras. Dunhuang flying apsaras, as the top popular exotic culture, how is it possible to combine grandeur and ebullience in such an ingenious way? It all starts with the Dunhuang murals.   The Origin of Dunhuang Frescoes During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the divisive political situation made people’s lives turbulent. The concept of Buddhism’s compassion and salvation provided comfort to suffering people and developed rapidly. There was a monk on way to the west, passing through Dunhuang and encountered a golden light spectacle, identified as a holy place. He hired the craftsman to dig caves here and carve Buddha statues. Over time, not only the princes and nobles, and even the common people have come to Dunhuang to excavate Buddhist caves, then the scale of the grottoes gradually expanded. Gradually, Dunhuang, located at the west end of the Hexi Corridor, has become a true fertile land for the spread of Buddhism, forged a rich treasure house of art and culture. Grand, magnificent, and surpassingly beautiful, Dunhuang has an unparalleled aesthetic background, known…

The earthly lights and the moon in the sky, the most beautiful thing is reunion. As the Mid-Autumn Festival approaches once again, mooncakes are an indispensable part. A box of mooncakes is not only a delicious pastry that delights the taste buds, but also carries heartfelt wishes and folk stories. Museums across China have also presented creative mooncakes, incorporating the cultural treasures of Chinese heritage, adding a touch of romantic national aesthetics to the Mid-Autumn Festival.   The Palace Museum In the collection of the Palace Museum, there is an imperial seal of Emperor Qianlong: "The moon is depicted with colors, water has sound". The brushwork is exquisite, capturing the scenery of the moon in the mountains and lakes. This year, the Palace Museum's mooncake gift box is inspired by this theme, combining traditional Chinese colors and dyeing techniques to appreciate the beauty of the country amidst mountains, rivers, and the moon. "Only the clear wind on the river and the bright moon in the mountains, the sound is heard in the ears, and the color is seen in the eyes." Take a bite of the Palace Museum mooncake, and the clear wind and bright moon will be in your…

In recent years, with the rise of the China-Chic trend, many gold stores have also begun to favor products of traditional culture and launched the so-called ancient gold craft and inheritance series of Chinese gold jewelry. The ancient Chinese used goldware as body decoration, dating back to the Xia Dynasty 4,000 years ago. The gold eardrops unearthed in Gansu is the best proof. The simple circle obviously cannot reflect the skill level of the ancients, so today let’s take a look at the gold earrings and gold bracelets in the museum’s collection of cultural relics. Let’s experience the luxury aesthetics of ancient Chinese gold jewelry.   Eardrop Eardrops (Er Zhui, 耳坠) is a kind of traditional Chinese earrings, with an additional part of the drop than earrings. This pair of gold eardrops in the Warring States Period adopts a cone and spring design, and the color matching of gold and turquoise is even more ingenious. This pair of gold eardrops from the Northern Wei Dynasty is composed of amber, silver ring, gold ring, silk column, hollow gold beads, wheat ear flower and other elements. Through weaving, welding, hammering, wire drawing, and other technologies, it creates a complicated but not messy…

When it comes to the gracefulness and elegance of hanfu, the sleeves must take at least half of the credit for the gesture. I believe the deepest impression of Chinese hanfu costumes is that they have wide sleeves. In fact, types of hanfu sleeves are not only wide sleeves, but they also vary in width, length, and posture, so I wonder which "sleeve posture" is most to your liking?     Large sleeve Large sleeves (大袖), also known as the wide sleeve, or what we commonly call the "wide sleeve", is known for its wide sleeve width, with the width of the cuff even approaching the sleeve length. It is the most classic sleeve shape of Hanfu, and also the most "fairy" one. The pose of "wide clothes and large sleeves" is the most common in hanfu dresses. Because it is inconvenient to work, it is mostly reserved for the upper class and is often a symbol of etiquette. However, due to changes in the system, status, wearing occasions, socio-economic culture, and other factors, the same large sleeves have different forms. Among the Ming official uniforms, the large sleeves of the "Chaofu (朝服)" and "Gongfu (公服)" was relatively wider, with…

Su embroidery (苏绣, Suzhou Silk Hand Embroidery Art) is the general name of embroidery products in Suzhou, the traditional folk arts. It is one of the four famous embroideries in China and was listed as one of the national intangible cultural heritages in 2006.

In recent years, traveling to China has become more and more popular around the world. Many people come to enjoy the unique life of China, taste delicious food, visit beautiful scenery, and experience Chinese traditional culture. But you may find out it is rare to see people wearing traditional Chinese costumes in their daily lives. It seems like traditional clothing has been forgotten by them. So, you might have a question, what is Chinese traditional dress, Cheongsam, Qipao, or Kimono?   Hanfu – The Traditional Costume of China Each country's traditional costumes are one of the symbols that reflect countries' ancient cultures and how native citizens were influenced by the regional environment. China has a long history of more than 5,000 years. Undoubtedly, Hanfu, as the most typical traditional costume of China, is a very important part of Chinese national culture. But compared with other traditional cultures, such as Chinese painting and calligraphy, Hanfu is not getting proper status and glory in the Chinese Culture Circle. Though with its disappearance in some ears, Hanfu still remains its typical features today due to its strong vitality. The clothing of Buddhism, Taoism, and many minority nationalities in China still maintains the characteristics…

Whenever it comes to an important Chinese holiday, the National Day of China or the Chinese New Year. You would always see red color in various places in China. Besides adding to the festive atmosphere, the color red is also an important part of the world's perception of China. Why does red represent China? How did red become the favorite color of the Chinese people? Today we will talk about the China-red!   How much do Chinese people like red? China-red, as the underlying color of Chinese culture, is everywhere, all the time. Such as the vermilion gate, red walls and pillars of the Forbidden City, or the redwood furniture and red quilts of people's homes. From the bride's red veil, red wedding dress, red embroidered shoes, etc., to the red Dudou (肚兜) worn by children. And red Fai Chun, red lanterns, red paper cutting, red envelope, red seals ...... There are too many objects off red in China to count. The Chinese can be said to have applied the color red to an extreme. Chinese directors also like to apply red in their films, such as Zhang Yimou. The films "Hong Gao Liang (红高粱)", "Ju Dou (菊豆)", "House of…

The air-conditioning, cold drinks and ice cream seem to be the standard of modern summer. But in ancient times, how did people spend the long summer? In this article, we will peek at the ancient summer time through a large number of ancient paintings.   Summer Festival July 4 is the sixth day of the sixth month of the lunar calendar, which has been officially designated as Tian Kuang Festival (天贶节) since the Song Dynasty, with the custom of offering sacrifices to ancestors and prohibiting slaughtering. At this time of the year, ancient people would expose grain, clothes and books to the sun to prevent them from getting moldy and being moth-eaten, so the sixth day of the sixth month was also called the Shai Xi Festival (晒洗节). In the Ming and Qing dynasties, people would take their pets to the river to give them a bath, officials would conduct bathing ceremonies for pets owned by the imperial family, such as elephants brought in from other countries. They are often performed during grand celebrations to show the royal majesty. During the Tian Kuang Festival, ancient people also used to store some well water for brewing sauce and vinegar, and for…

The Rebel Princess (上阳赋, Shang Yang Fu) is a recent Chinese fictional costume drama that receives more attention, based on the background of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, starring Zhang Ziyi and Zhou YiWei. Although the costumes and props in "The Rebel Princess" are exquisite, but they are not fully restored according to history, so we will not discuss them too much and just enjoy them in the plot. But let's take this opportunity to review what the costumes in the Wei and Jin dynasties were like. The basic situation of the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern dynasties periods First of all, let us briefly introduce the basic situation of that period: "Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties (魏晋南北朝)", which is a compound term for several dynasties collectively, but the dynasties or countries included in it can be as many as dozens. The period before the Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties periods was the Three Kingdoms period (Wei, Shu, and Wu), with "Wei" referring to the state of Wei in the Three Kingdoms, and "Jin" mainly referring to the Western Jin dynasty built by the Sima clan after the demise of the Three Kingdoms, and the Eastern Jin dynasty…

You must be no stranger to this traditional lantern, which often appears as a prop for photography with hanfu. Let's learn more about it.   What is Jiang Sha Deng Jiang Sha Deng (绛纱灯), a type of ancient Chinese lantern with a long history, is a common type of lantern used by both the court and the folk, Jiang means dark red, Sha means gauze, and Deng means the lantern. The most important function of the Jiang Sha Deng is lighting, but certainly, it is more decorative than other lighting appliances, which is the reason why it was loved by the and the court. The ancients liked to use Jiang Sha Deng in processions at festivals and wedding ceremonies, and often took it on trips for the simple reason that they looked beautiful. The traditional Jiang Sha Deng with metal bracket to separate the gauze, do not worry about the candle fire to burn it, while the modern Jiang Sha Deng with electronic lights.   What is Jiang Sha Deng made of? Bamboo wood as the skeleton, copper candle plate, wrapped with red, green and blue gauze outside. The pole is colored with dark red lacquer. The head of the…

As a traditional mythological story, the plot of "Investiture of the Gods" is already well-known to us. However, "Creation of the Gods I: Kingdom of Storms" still prepared many surprises for the audience. For example, we can see the presence of many Chinese national treasure-level cultural relics in the props.   01 Horses In the Creation of the Gods, Yin Shou led his military to return triumphantly from Jizhou. The Shang King and Crown Prince Yin Qi sat on a chariot driven by six white horses to welcome them. It is well known that in ancient times, the number of horses and specifications of vehicles were important symbols of identity and status. There were strict ritual regulations regarding this throughout various dynasties. “天子驾六马，诸侯驾四、大夫三、士二、庶人一。” -《逸礼·王度记》 "The emperors rides with six horses; feudal lords ride with four; high-ranking officials three; scholars two; commoners one." - Yi Li · Wang Du Ji In addition to consulting ancient books, the film also referenced unearthed cultural relics - such as the discovery of a horse-drawn carriage pit called "Six Imperial Horses" at Luoyang He Luo Cultural Square in 2002. There are 26 buried carriages in total divided into two rows, with their heads facing south…

Tang suit (唐装, Tang Zhuang), also known as Chinese jacket. A newer form of Qing Dynasty Magua (马褂), is a modern costume with traditional elements, based on the prototype of a Chinese traditional lapel jacket, with the addition of stand collar and western-style three-dimensional cutting.   Origin of the name of Tang suit Perhaps you may be puzzled, since Tang suit is a new form of Magua in the Qing Dynasty, why is there Tang in the name? Is it directly related to the Tang Dynasty costume? The reason is that the Tang Dynasty was a powerful dynasty in Chinese history and had a great influence on overseas countries, and in the Song Dynasty, "Tang" had become the pronoun of the overseas countries in the southeast for China. Throughout the Song, Yuan, and Ming dynasties, things related to China were called "Tang", and not only "Tang" was used as a proxy for the land of "China", but also the Chinese were called "Tang", overseas Chinese often call themselves "Tang people", they live in places called "Tangren Jie (唐人街, Chinatown)", so this Qing-style costume is also called "Tang suit". In modern times, the Tang suit has more diverse names, such as…

People are always curious about history, wondering about the appearance of famous figures from the past. Today, with the help of AI technology, the face of the emperor of the Song Dynasty has been recreated. The Song Dynasty was an important era in Chinese history, with its territory expanding and contracting, divided into the Northern Song and Southern Song periods. The capital of the Northern Song was in Bianjing (modern-day Kaifeng), while the capital of the Southern Song was in Lin'an (modern-day Hangzhou). The Song Dynasty was a time of prosperity in commercial economy and cultural education in Chinese history. During this period, there was relatively enlightened politics, agricultural development, thriving commerce and urban centers, social changes, the revival of Confucianism leading to the formation of Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism, rapid technological advancements, flourishing poetry, and high achievements in calligraphy and painting. Scholars estimate that the Song Dynasty's GDP accounted for 22.7% of the world economy at that time, and the total population in 1124 reached 126 million. Some scholars praise the cultural achievements of the Han Chinese, culminating in the Song eras after thousands of years of evolution.   Zhao Kuangyin Emperor Taizu of the Song Dynasty, Zhao Kuangyin (960-976), reigned…

Hey everyone, sorry for the hiatus! I’m back now with a new series of articles—Hanfu Unearthed, a series examining the more technical, historical origins of hanfu. This series of articles is going to focus on the archaeological side of hanfu research: the relics that we’ve uncovered from various dig sites and tombs. The way that hanfu is defined by most is that its shape and construction is designed off of these relics, so let’s take a look at the real historical references that we have. A quick disclaimer—this series of articles is a result of my own research. I’m not a trained historian or archaeologist, I’m an inexperienced student with an interest in hanfu and chinese history. I don’t have a works cited page for these (though I can point you towards some of the resources I used off the top of my head if you really want them), and I didn’t spend a long time verifying my sources beyond checking with multiple sources to make sure the information was consistent, because frankly I don’t have the time to do that. All articles will come with this disclaimer, so please, please understand that I’m doing my best with what I…

The cheongsam (literally, long shirt/dress), also known as Qipao or Mandarin Gown, was a type of feminine body-hugging dress with Manchu and Western elements. It was first used as the uniform of Shanhai girl schools at the time of the Republic of China period (1911-1949). Back then, it was very popular for representing the images of new era knowledge females. Cheongsams led a fashion trend for a long time during the Republic of China period. After the sovereignty was transferred to the People’s Republic of China (1949), Cheongsams had been forbidden as they were a sign of bourgeoisie. It was until the conduct of the Reform and Opening policy in the 1980s that Qipaos being prevalent again. Nowadays, Qipaos have gained more and more attention with a great number of local and international designers involved. History When it comes to modern Qipao’s origins, there are 3 mainstream claims. The first claim suggests that modern Qipao is only the evolutionary style of Manchu’s clothing. The second claim says western elements affect a lot on modern Qipao designs. The last claim supposes that ancient Chinese clothing plays an important role as well. 1. Qipao with Manchu Speaking of the history of Cheongsams, the…

As June arrives, we first welcome Children's Day on June 1st. Let us enjoy the joyful atmosphere of Children's Day with this painting from the Southern Song Dynasty called "Bai Zi Tu." In the painting, children are seen riding on wooden horses, wearing masks, playing drums and flutes, dancing and performing plays, all kinds of entertainment for their amusement. While we reminisce about how carefree childhood was during this time, the third solar term of summer, Mang Zhong, arrives punctually on June 6th. Every year when mantises are seen in fields and farms it is a sign that Mang Zhong has arrived. It is also known as the busiest farming season where wheat is harvested followed by sowing late millet crops such as sorghum and broomcorn. There can be no delays during this season. So what customs do people follow during Mang Zhong? In southern Anhui Province in China, after planting rice paddies people hold an Anmiao ceremony to pray for a good harvest in autumn. There are also many delicious foods to enjoy around Mang Zhong. In the south of China, Mei Zi (plums) have ripened and it's a great time to pick some during the rainy season and cook…

The word Qipao originally meant "Qing People's Robe." But in modern day, cheongsam dress immediately conjures up images of the famous traditional Chinese outfit, an icon of Eastern Asian fashion and a symbol of Shanghai City, with an enduring appeal the world over. You may think, "Chinese women wear qipao every day or anybody know how to wear qipao." However, with the development of society, only a few people wear traditional cheongsam everyday, and a lot of people don’t even know how to wear qipao in modern life. Traditional qipao got avoided by people because it took time to wear one compare to modern clothes, and it was hard to move when wearing it. Now, It hasn't always been this way, that situation has been changed. Modern fashion coordinates the heat of qipao dress. Western trend is bright fashion, and qipao has a vintage design that western clothes don’t have. So, today's young people are having fun that they arrange qipao style with their favorite fashion elements. This time we'll bring you a brief history of traditional cheongsam and unveil how the modern qipao fashion achieves rapid development, and hope you enjoy it! What is the Modern Qipao of Chinese…