History & Culture

Pibo (披帛, pī bó), traditional Hanfu shawl, made from light fabric silk, although now the Hanfu enthusiasts accustomed to call it Pibo, but the name "Pibo" actually appeared later, about the late Tang Dynasty, more often it is called Pei (帔, pèi). In earlier Chinese dramas, Pei was once the symbol of "Chinese ancient costume" with its elegant and beautiful features. In the wardrobe of ancient women, Pei has always been very distinctive and not to be ignored part, wrapped between the arms or draped over the shoulders and neck. Also in Chinese wedding customs, there is "Fengguan Xiapei (凤冠霞帔)", different eras of Pei also have different styles. So how has Pei changed over its long history, and what role has it played? Follow along with Dongfang Zhuangdao to find out more. Traditional Hanfu Shawl Pei before the Song Dynasty Pei, a long silk shawl worn by women in ancient times, is thought to have originated during the Qin and Han dynasties, the more accepted theory is that it was influenced by Buddhism and Metaphysics and originated from the Dajin (搭巾) worn by figures in statues. Since the beginning of the Northern and Southern Dynasties, in the context of ethnic…

Hanfu wedding, which is wearing traditional Chinese clothing: Hanfu, and taking the traditional Chinese wedding system as the prototype. Modern people restore the traditional Chinese wedding, they roughly sum it up as follows The Zhou Hanfu wedding (周制婚礼), represented by the pre-Qin and Han Dynasties. Tang Hanfu wedding (唐制婚礼) represented by Wei, Jin, and Tang Dynasties. Ming Hanfu wedding (明制婚礼) represented by song and Ming Dynasties. The traditional Chinese Hanfu wedding ceremony is generally divided into three parts: pre-wedding ceremony, formal wedding ceremony, and post-wedding ceremony. As we all know, culture is the life of a nation, and etiquette is one of the main signs of all civilized nations and an important window of national culture. As the Chinese nation with a long civilization of 5000 years, attach great importance to marriage. The book of Zhouyi said: Only when there are heaven and earth can there be everything. Only when there is everything can there be men and women. Only when there are men and women can there be couples. Only when there are couples can there be fathers and sons. Only when there are fathers and sons can there be princes and ministers. Only when there are princes and…

Iron is a common small appliance in modern homes, and almost every home has one, but did you know that irons have been in use since 2000 years ago, or even earlier? How did the ancients iron Hanfu?   The Origin of the Ancient Iron The origin of the name "Yundou (熨斗, iron)" is that its image is similar to that of "Big Dipper", and secondly, the shape of the Yundou is like the China ancient cooking utensil "Dou (斗)". In ancient China, the Yundou, also known as "fire Dou", "gold Dou (an iron made of gilding technology, it is not a general folk good)", "Gumu (钴鉧)", its main function is to iron Hanfu clothes, the effect is two: one is to iron out any wrinkled areas of clothing, another effect is to iron the pleats, at where need to be visibly pleated. The first iron was made of stones, pottery, or copper, roasting on the fire, and then pressed on the clothes to iron them. It is said that iron was invented before the end of the Shang Dynasty. King Zhou of the Shang Dynasty was inspired by the fact that irons burned people's hands when they were used,…

Ordinary Tang dynasty women's clothing we are all familiar with, a short blouse, a long skirt, and then shawls, which is often referred to as "Tang Ru", "high-waisted Ruqun" or "shawls Ruqun". And so on with this set of clothing. But what exactly were these garments called in ancient times, and what were the specific wearing sequence? Let's take a look. The basic equipment of daily women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty is: shirt, skirt, and shawls. In addition, depending on the situation, they also included a Beizi, Mofu (陌腹, underwear), shoes and socks, etc. The following is a description of the types of Tang Dynasty women's clothing for daily and the way to match in the four seasons.   Shanzi (衫子, shān zi, shirt) · Ru (襦,rú) Women in the Tang dynasty wore long-sleeved blouses with narrow sleeves and short bodies, now generally called "Ru (襦)", but according to Tang custom it should be called "Shanzi". Various Tang dynasty documents, unearthed clothing records and poetry novels in the costume vocabulary, mention of daily women's clothing, from the early to mid-to-late Tang dynasty, almost all the tops are "Shanzi". Shanzi were very short in length, mostly less than the waist, and…

Silk is one of the symbols of Chinese civilization, China due to the abundance of silk, has been named the "Silk Country" known, the use of silk is also with the development of the times are also changing, from the initial production of clothing, to later become a popular commodity and to some extent, instead of currency, all of these changes have highlighted its unique status. Today begins through a precious Chinese silk robe, discover how the Han dynasty textile industry developed in ancient China. Precious Chinese silk robe: Sucha Danyi In the winter of 1951, while conducting archaeological work in Changsha, archaeologists discovered two connected grave at Wulipai in the eastern suburbs of Changsha. After several difficult excavations until 1974, the Mawangdui Han tombs, which had been dormant for thousands of years, was unveiled. Among the many precious artifacts unearthed, the most notable is the Zhiju Susha Danyi (直裾素纱襌衣, plain yarn garment). "Thin as a cicada's wing, light as floating smoke", this Chinese silk robe was especially valuable because it was 128cm long, with 190cm sleeves, but weighed a mere 49 grams and could even fit in a matchbox when folded. It was hailed by archaeologists as a milestone…

We often see many different Chinese robe styles of Hanfu, but you may not be able to say exactly what the difference is between them. There are many similarities in different styles of Hanfu, but with the development of history, it is gradually optimized, convenient to wear, and also derived from different shapes. This article will introduce the form system of the Hanfu and Chinese robe system.   The form system of Hanfu There are many styles of Hanfu, but they can be divided into the following shapes， Yichang system (衣裳制), is the kind with the separation of the upper and the lower garments. Shenyi system (深衣制), is the one-piece kind that unites the upper and the lower garments together, make separately, and sew together. Paofu system (Chinese robe, 袍服制), cut out the upper and the lower garments with a piece of cloth, no seam in the middle, natural integration.   The uniform system of Chinese robe (袍服) Chinese robes appeared in the pre-Qin period, at that time, were just underwear with cotton, so people have to wear it with their coats. In the Zhou Dynasty, emperors used robes for daily wear. In the Qin and Han Dynasties, the status of robe…

Hanfu (汉服, hàn fú), Chinese traditional costume, the full name of which is "traditional costume of Han nationality". It is also known as Han Yiguan(汉衣冠), Han Zhuang (汉装), and Huafu (华服), which was formed from the reign of the Yellow Emperor to the middle of the 17th century (late Ming and early Qing dynasties), in the main residential areas of the Han nationality, with "Huaxia-Han" culture as the background and the dominant idea. With the Chinese ceremonial culture as the center, through natural evolution, formed the unique style and character of the Han nationality, obviously different from the traditional clothing and accessories system of other nationalities. This guide is classified according to the 1: basic feature of the Hanfu, 2: Hanfu shape & style, 3: Hanfu in different wearing scenes, 4: Hanfu in different dynasties, and the 5: related contents of Hanfu, so as to facilitate readers to understand and query.   Basic Feature of the Hanfu 1.1: Basic Structure Hanfu is cut from 50cm wide cloth and divided into parts: Ling (领, lǐng, collar), Jin(襟, jīn, placket), Ren (衽, rèn, overlapping part), Jin (衿, jīn or jìn), Ju (裾, jū), Xiu (袖, xiù, sleeves), Mei (袂, mèi), Dai (带, dài,…

Chinese incense culture has a long history. As an important part of incense culture - Chinese traditional scented sachet culture, it also carries a large amount of cultural information, reflecting the aesthetic concepts and social customs of people in different periods, as well as the achievements of Chinese textiles and fine manufacturing. Nowadays, due to the emergence and use of aromatherapy, perfume, and other items, incense sachets have rarely been used except on specific festivals and occasions, but they have left a strong mark in the history of incense used in China.   The History of the Traditional Sachet Scented sachet (香囊, Xiangnang) is a folk embroidered craft created by ancient women, originally developed from Peinang (佩囊), a small cloth pocket used by the ancients to hold small objects. There were no pockets on the clothes of the ancients, so some portable necessities, such as seals, hand towels, coins, etc., were stored in this kind of pouch, and when they went out, they put it on their waist, so it was called "Peinang". Scented sachet belongs to a kind of Peinang, which is named after the spices stored in the sac. According to the literature, the history of wearing scented…

As we all know, the Tang Dynasty had unprecedented national power, strong economic strength, people lived in peace and happiness, and the people's pursuit of fashion is also increasing. Today for you to introduce the women fashion items in the Tang Dynasty, let's take a look at Chinese historical fashion together.   The Essential Diexie Belt (蹀躞带) for Tang Dynasty Women The movie "The Assassin" released in 2015, in which the female protagonist Nie Yinniang is dressed in a black robe, wearing a very fashionable belt at the waist, which is a popular "Diexie belt" in the Tang Dynasty. Diexie belt was originally a kind of waist belt of the Hu people, since the Wei and Jin Dynasty, introduced into the Central Plains, to the Tang Dynasty was once set as civil and military officials must wear something. An antique Tang dynasty Diexie belt, now in the Shaanxi Provincial Institute of Archaeology. It is 1.5 meters long and 1.2 centimeters thick and is made of white jade, some of which is light green. The jade belt is made of using traditional decorative techniques, inlaid gold in Hetian white jade, and the quality of the jade is warm, luxurious, and beautiful.…

Hanfu lovers may have heard the term Wei Jin style (魏晋风), or perhaps even that it's not part of the Chinese Hanfu clothing, but what's the difference between the Wei Jin style and the Hanfu in the ancient Wei Jin period?   Is the Wei Jin style costume part of Hanfu? In fact, the Wei Jin style is just a style of dressing! It is characterized by wide robes and big sleeves, fairy, etc. Only a tendency to national literature and art aesthetic style and expression. Tips: Wei Jin style ≠ Wei Jin Dynasty Hanfu. Wei Jin style = a style of clothing that is original to the merchant and sells itself as "as elegant and unrestrained as the scholar of Wei Jin". The origin of the Wei Jin style is a few years ago, a business to do a character of Wei and Jin dynasties style clothing series (魏晋风骨), this series is mainly characterized by thin and light, low saturation, low cross collar with edging, very suitable for shooting photos, loved by ladies. Then many businesses followed up and gradually formed a "Wei Jin style". The Wei Jin style does not refer to the social style of the form and…

Previously we have discussed the Ming Dynasty men's clothing: Zhiduo (直裰), Zhishen (直身), and Taoist robe (道袍). And today we are going to discuss the Daofu. Daofu (道服, Dào fú) has two meanings in Chinese: refers to Taoist clothing, the robes worn outside by Taoists; one of the Chinese traditional costume Hanfu styles: Ming Dynasty costume for males. Obviously, they are different kinds of clothes, today, let's learn about the traditional sense of "Daofu" through the Hanfu Culture Society!   [Structure and History] Daofu, Jiaoling Youren (交领右衽, wrapping the right side before the left), wide sleeves, with dark edging at the collar edge, sleeve edge, and placket, sometimes with a Huling (护领, collar protector) in collar edge. Daofu: Jiaoling Youren (交领右衽, wrapping the right side before the left); wide sleeves; with dark edging at the collar edge, sleeve edge, and placket; sometimes with a Huling (护领, collar protector) in collar edge; the slit is embellished with an inner hem; both inner and outer have the strap; In simple terms, it can be seen as a "Taoist robe" with edges added. In fact, the similarity between Daofu and Shenyi can be seen through its appearance, it is a style inherited from…

Our previous articles have covered the costume components of the Song emperors, but today we focus on the composition and details of the Song empress costumes, using the Empress Cao's costume from the Qing Ping Yue TV series as a reference for comparison with museum collections. From the makeup poster of Empress Cao's character, Jiang Shuying, the cast still referenced the costumes in the "Axis of the Seated Portrait of empress Song Renzong (宋仁宗皇后坐像轴)" which is now in the National Palace Museum in Taipei, and perhaps due to the poor detail definition of the phoenix crown in the portrait, the phoenix crown was restored with reference to Liu E's phoenix crown in the similar era of Empress Zhenzong (真宗皇后). It's also worth noting that this empress costumes are of a higher class and therefore more elaborate, so let's start with a brief dissection of what Empress Cao is wearing.   Dragon & Phoenix Flower Hairpin Crown In today's context, we are accustomed to referring to the Empress's ceremonial crown as a "phoenix crown" and sometimes the bride's jewelry as a "phoenix crown", but for a long time in ancient China, jewelry as a symbol of female identity was neither a…

The Tang Dynasty (from 618 to 907) was extremely important in the history of China. Many Chinese TV dramas and movies have been filmed with the Tang Dynasty as the background. We have introduced the costume culture of the Tang Dynasty before, today we will show you the beautiful makeup and the history of the rise and fall of the Tang Dynasty through the Hanfu drawing of illustrator @Yucha Guozi (御茶菓子) and the Hanfu model @Zhende Caicai (真的菜菜), present the stunning makeup and the history of the rise and fall of the Tang Dynasty, and feel the aesthetic spirit of the Tang Dynasty which is diverse, confident and inclusive.   Early Tang dynasty: the first year of Wude: 618 AD (武德元年) Narrow-sleeved short garments were popular in the early Tang dynasty. The picture shows a double-bun maid, wearing a shawl collar, a half-sleeved garment with a long skirt, and a skinny shape.   Gaozong period of the Tang Dynasty: 628-683 AD (高宗时期) Next is a "woman in men's clothing", during the Tang dynasty, women often wore men's clothing. This is because during the period of Gaozong, society gradually became more elegant and open, and the body shape that was favored…

With the movement and innovation of Hanfu, more and more new styles of Hanfu have appeared in our eyes, but those who are new to Hanfu may not know much about its style, so they don't know where to start to understand Hanfu style. Today, we have collected some basic styles of Hanfu and their corresponding historical prototypes, so let's experience the ancient Chinese fashion together. The Hanfu costume "began in Huangdi (黄帝) and was perfected in Yao (尧) and Shun (舜) ", and was styled in the Zhou Dynasty, and through the Han Dynasty, a complete system of headwear and costume was formed based on the Four Books and Five Classics. Duijin Ruqun (对襟襦裙, parallel collar) Ruqun is a top garment and skirt in Chinese, it is one of the earliest and most basic forms of Hanfu. "Ru", is a short garment, with collar style with parallel collar, crossed collar, or shawl collar (U-shaped collar). "Qun", is a skirt, is usually a one-piece or two-piece. The term "Duijin" refers to the symmetry of the left and right lapels of the Ruqun, and need wearing of an inner Moxiong(camisole). Duijin Ruqun was mainly popular in the Song Dynasty. Compared to other…

We often see the Chinese Hanfu face veil in Chinese movies and TV series, often bringing a sense of mystery, so today we're going to take a deeper look at it.   Two Kinds of Hanfu Face Veil in Ancient China Mili (羃䍦, mi lí) Mili, a unique ancient hat ornament, was mainly used to conceal the face and body. It was first recorded in writing in the Jin Dynasty and was worn by both men and women at the beginning of its popularity, but it was mainly used by women in the Sui and Tang Dynasties and was abandoned in the Tang Dynasty. Weimao (帷帽, wéi mào) Weimao was originally a hu garment, originally called a Mili, which was usually made of black yarn, surrounded by a wide brim, with a hanging silkscreen or thin silk that reached down to the neck to cover the face. Usually, the length of the curtain is just long enough to show the shoulders.   Historical Origins of Two Hanfu Face Veil Mi and Li were first used to refer to two items, namely, a silk scarf and a white cap respectively. It was not until the Jin Dynasty that the two words…

Hanfu shoes have a long history of development. About 5000 years ago, during the Yangshao culture, the most primitive shoes made of animal skin appeared. Shoes were the first tool for people to protect their feet from injury. Later, they gradually became a symbol of people's identity and status and witnessed many special historical processes.   Brief introduction of Hanfu shoes In Hanfu, shoes are called Zuyi (足衣, clothes on feet), there are various styles of ancient Chinese Hanfu shoes and boots, and their development has gone through the process from scratch, from simplicity to complexity, from coarseness to precision. From the earliest function of warmth preservation and protection, it has developed into a symbol of identity and status. Through shoes and socks, we can see the integration and progress of the development of Chinese civilization. The earliest shoes came into being with the appearance of fabric materials and the appearance of clothes. In ancient times, the raw materials of shoes were grass, linen, and leather. Moreover, the style of shoes was rather simple. According to the literature, the earliest shoes, no matter what material they are made of, are collectively referred to as "屦, jù". After the Warring States…

We have previously introduced the costumes of the Song Dynasty, but today we will introduce the emperor's clothing of the Song Dynasty using the TV series Qing Ping Yue (清平乐, Serenade of Peaceful Joy) as a backdrop. Qing Ping Yue is a complex and realistic restoration of the Song Renzong (宋仁宗) set in the Northern Song Dynasty. In this drama, Wang Kai (王凯), who plays the role of Song Renzong, basically restores from the appearance of the original costumes in the Taipei National Palace Museum collection of Song Renzong Seated Axis, the costumes, makeup, and props in the drama are very exquisite, and will bring you a brief analysis of the costumes on Song Renzong.   Futou The story of the Futou(幞头) begins in the Tang Dynasty. The popular men's headwear of the Tang Dynasty was not a complete hat, but consisted of a square piece of fabric called "Futou" and a cane wood or wire mesh cover called "Jinzi". The Jinzi was used to cover the topknot of the hair, then the Futou was covered, the two corners were folded up and knotted, and the other two corners were knotted at the back of the head and made to…

We have introduced several casual dresses from the Ming Dynasty (Zhiduo/Zhishen/Taoist robes/stand collar Hanfu shirt) before. This article will introduce the history of the Ming Hanfu robes Yuanlingpao and its use as a formal dress for grand occasions. On many traditional ceremonial occasions, the most popular dress set for men is the Wushamao and Yuanlingpao, and for women, is the Fengguan Xiapei and Yuanlingpao.   Men's Formal Dress: Wushamao & Yuanlingpao [Structure and History] Wushamao (乌纱帽), is a Ming dynasty imitation of the Tang dynasty form of Futou (幞头), the shape is tall and dignified, behind the insertion of two straight and wide wings, mostly square or oval, can be said to be a standard issue for wearing Yuanlingpao. Yuanlingpao (round collar robes, 圆领袍), The origin can be traced back to the North and South dynasties and has been used as the formal dress of officials during the Tang and Song dynasties, and the round collar robes with Buzi (补子) were used as the regular dress of officials during the Ming dynasty and later as the formal dress of ordinary people. Yuanlingpao, also known as pan collar (盘领) Youren (右衽); with big sleeves; the body is slit below the waist…

We have previously detailed a few ancient Chinese robes from the Ming Dynasty (Zhiduo/Taoist/Zhishen), most of which are suitable for scholars, but today we will introduce you to 2 more martial styles ancient Chinese robes for men: Tieli & Yisan. You may often find these two classic Chinese costumes at Hanfu festivals or events, they are very eye-catching and handsome. Tieli (贴里) [History and characteristics of Tieli] Tieli is usually worn under a round-necked robe and Dahu (褡护, a type of clothing that belongs to the Banbi), which makes the wide hem of the robe slightly outward and dignified. Tieli is the Mongolian word for the robe and is an import from the Yuan Dynasty. After being inherited by the Ming Dynasty, the garment was lengthened, and the overall structure closer to Shenyi system of the Hanfu, and integrated the Han "orthodox" rituals, and later became the most common ancient Chinese robes, and is a common style of the Ming Dynasty officials (up to the Feiyu suit, down to military uniforms). Features of the Tieli include: Jiaolingyouren (交领右衽), the front and back of the garment are cut separates the top and bottom. Sleeves' styles are available in narrow and large,…

China has a splendid costume history, but the splendor of the ancients has gone with the years, and we can only recall it through historical records and archaeological discoveries. Fortunately, there is someone who can use his exquisite painting skills to rigorously and meticulously restore the ancient Chinese clothing and trace the history of the delicate and gorgeous. Today, we are going to share with you the ancient Chinese clothing timeline and experience the charm of Chinese clothing together.   Shang Dynasty (c. 16th-11th century BC) Features: The main feature of the Shang dynasty dress is "upper garment, lower Chang (裳), Youren (右衽), hair bunch". The upper half of the body wears clothes, the lower half of the body wears Chang, Chang is the skirt. Noble men's dress (left): The head wears the tall Ge(葛) cloth crown. The Yue-shaped cloth hanging from the front abdomen was a sign of noble status, and was often referred to in later literature as the "Bixi (蔽膝)". The pattern on it is based on the Leiwen depicted on the Shang dynasty Yuge in the collection of the Palace Museum. The boots worn by the feet are painted on the basis of pottery boots excavated from…

1. Characteristics The Chinese people claim fabulous origins of remote antiquity. Its activities have always been dominated by agricultural life. An aristocratic and feudal organization, based on the ownership of fields, bound them closely together. China's social structure was modeled on family organization. The father was the supreme authority in the home; the children owed absolute obedience to him, as well as to the emperor, the Son of Heaven, who exercised unlimited power. Filial piety and ancestor worship are two notions that have greatly influenced even neighboring countries. In every home parents narrate exemplary deeds to their children, urging them to emulate the protagonists of these stories. Moral reform was carried out in the 5th century B.C. by the eminent moralist and politician Confucius. His writings expound in detail on behavior in all of life's activities. 2. Confucius Confucius (551-479 B.C.) He was the great codifier of the Chinese people. He consecrated his life to the magisterium, teaching everyone, without distinction of classes. He did not pretend any innovation, but to restore the ancient teachings. In its essential lines, his thought is aristocratic, since it seeks the instruction of the nobles and princes, instilling in them the fulfillment of duties…

The Mid-Autumn Festival is a traditional Chinese festival celebrated on the 15th day of the eighth month of the lunar calendar. August is the second month of autumn and is popularly known as the "Zhongqiu (中秋)" because it is the day of the full moon, which symbolizes reunion. Therefore, the Mid-Autumn Festival is also known as the Reunion Festival. The Mid-Autumn Festival has a long history. Since ancient times, China has had a ritual system for worshipping the moon. It also coincides with the harvest of autumn grain, and the ancients held a series of rituals to thank the gods for their blessings. The moon is bright and clear at mid-autumn, and the autumn air is crisp and cool, making it the perfect time to enjoy the moon. Later, with the development of the times, moon worship was gradually replaced by moon appreciation, but although the ritual colors have faded, the festival continues to this day and has been given a new meaning. As a popular traditional cultural festival among many ethnic groups in China, many places have formed the Mid-Autumn Festival customs with local characteristics. As for mooncakes, their beginnings date back to the Han Dynasty. Zhang Qian's mission…

The Mid-Autumn Festival is just around the corner, let's enjoy the Mid-Autumn Festival dressing fashions of the ancients and see what can be applied to Chinese fashion trends. The Mid-Autumn Festival is one of the traditional festivals of Han Chinese people. As an important traditional festival in China and the Chinese cultural circle, the rich customs of the Mid-Autumn Festival are also reflected in all aspects of  Hanfu clothing, food, housing, and transportation. Mid-Autumn Festival elements The ancient idea of dressing is usually to decorate clothing and accessories with these patterned elements based on the corresponding festive elements. What can you think of about the festive elements of the Mid-Autumn Festival? In fact, although legends about the moon appeared a long time ago, and the custom of worshipping the moon was mentioned in the "Zhou Li (周礼)", there was no concept of the "Mid-Autumn Festival" at that time, and it was not until the Tang Dynasty that the most suitable day to appreciate the moon was set as the Mid-Autumn Festival. It was already in the Song Dynasty that the Mid-Autumn Festival and its customs and culture became popular. The Mid-Autumn Festival element in clothing was particularly typical of the…