Home History & Culture Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

0
18
Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

In our previous article, we have introduced two styles of ancient Chinese dress for girls, namely, the stand collar Duijin shirt and the stand collar Dajin long shirt, which are the two different styles of collars and plackets fronts in Ming Dynasty Hanfu. And today, we would like to introduce you to two other styles of Ming Dynasty Hanfu, the Jiaoling shirt/jacket & Fangling jacket, very suitable Chinese dress for girls to wear.

title

Jiaoling

We will start by introducing one of the most common forms of the Ming Dynasty – Jiaoling shirt. First, let’s see what applications the Jiaoling shirt has in modern times.

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

[Structure & History]

Jiaoling (交领, cross-collar) usually refers to the crossing of collars formed by the overlapping of the plackets. In the excavated artifacts, the left placket is usually pressed against the right placket, showing the “y” character, which is the so-called Jiaolingyouren (交领右衽), as shown in the picture, the right placket is significantly smaller than the left placket.

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

[The Occasion of Dressing]

The Ming Dynasty Jiaoling jacket is usually worn with a horse-faced skirt. The occasions for wearing it varies according to the pattern of the fabric and the Buzi (补子). The Jiaoling jacket with gold-woven Yunjian (云肩) or Buzi is usually worn on formal occasions. The narrow-sleeved Jiaoling jacket is more likely to be worn as intimate wear or for daily use.

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

The court lady in the picture is wearing the Jiaoling jacket with cuffs decorated with white sleeve edges. Some may be decorated with gold-woven Yunjian and Tongxiulan (通袖襕) decorated.

title

Fangling

Next up is the Fangling (方领, square collar) section.

 

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

[Structure & History]

Fangling, as the name implies, the collar is a square shape, and the placket of the Fangling garment is always the opposite. Among the unearthed costumes at the Ming Dingling Mausoleum, there are many Fangling costumes, mostly with short sleeves (half-sleeves).

For example, the following relics are the Hundred Flowers jacket with 163cm sleeves; Hongfu Qitian jacket with 170cm sleeves.

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing
Hundred Flowers jacket
Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing
Hongfu Qitian jacket

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

Fangling short-sleeved (half-sleeved) garments were also excavated from the tomb of Wang Luo in the Ming dynasty, both of which were mainly made of plain silk. There were two shirts with plain silk as the main fabric in tomb No. 1 and one jacket with plain silk as the main fabric in tomb No. 2. These garments have a different placket from the main fabric, with two fasteners and a tie for the placket, and the sleeves are less than 130cm.

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing
Fangling short-sleeved garments

From the shape of the sleeves and the width and length of the sleeves on these pieces, it can be inferred that the half sleeves Fangling were usually worn as outerwear.

[The Occasion of Dressing]

As there is no record of this type of clothing in Ming dynasty documents, the Fangling shirt, decorated with patterns, could be worn on ceremonial occasions. Plain colors are usually used for daily use.

The Fangling jacket is used as an outer garment, and the inner garment can be worn as a stand collar Duijin jacket or Jiaoling jacket.

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

Let’s take a look at some historically based Fangling wears.

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing

Chinese Dress for Girls – Jiaoling & Fangling Clothing 1

The above is about two styles of Chinese dress for girls to wear: the Jiaoling shirt/jacket & Fangling jacket.  

More about Chinese traditional dress for girl & Hanfu female dress can click here.

 

NO COMMENTS

LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here